The Black Hills Souvenir: A Pictorial and Historic Description of the Black Hills
PermSDeDt quartz mlnea have followed the placer mining oF early days In the Black HlllB. and are now yielding 1 15.
Overview
The Black Hills Souvenir: A Pictorial and Historic Description of the Black Hills is a 1902 historical mining reference by John I. Sanford, preserved in the Mountain Man Mining research library, focused on placer gold mining. PermSDeDt quartz mlnea have followed the placer mining oF early days In the Black HlllB. and are now yielding 1 15.
This 1902 document, The Black Hills Souvenir: A Pictorial and Historic Description of the Black Hills, is preserved in the Mountain Man Mining Library for research and reference. Original source: archive.org.
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A Pictorial And Historic Dkscription Of The Black Hills
CompikJ hy RET. JOHN I. SANFORD
Cupyrigh' l,OJ by John I. Sin/'J
Engravrd jnd Prinwd by THE WILLIAMSON-HAFFNER ENGRAVING CO. DenvE., Coloiido.
When Equipping Your Mine
Ihe installation of a rock drilling plant means so large an expenditure of money that careful consideration may profitably be given to the electrically driven drill. Comparing with other kinds the Electric Drill is more economical in
Installation, Operation And Repairs.
Then there are other valuable advantages in an electric plant. Inquire about them — .'\t the head of the electric drills stands
The Durkee Electric Drill
The Mine & Smelter Supply Co.
DENVER. COLO. Sail Lake Cily, Utah. El Paso. Texas.
Q Citv. Me.
V York. N. y.
Our special Drill Catalogue will ClII
you about the advantages
and features.
Young Sitting Bull.
what a Tourist Sees in the Black Hills,
This interesting and peculiar bunch of hills rises abruptly out of the surrounding plains, tossed) up by one of Dame Nature's frisky freaks, as through she had wearied of her long repose and, one day, rousing herself from her cramped quarters in the caverns of the earth, had bumped her head against the crust above, bulged the prairie some eight thousand feet above its normal level, and in doi: so, accidentally, or incidentally, forced up much of the wealth, and many of the secrets of the nethq world, creating the third richest gold producing district on this golden continent, a puzzle to gists and scientists, ami a never-ending source of wonder and admiration to all who are fortunatfj enough to make its acquaintance.
Scientists are divided as to whether this curious freak of nature is the result of direct volcanic action or of lateral pressure, but whatever may have been the disturbing cause, there seems to have been upheaval after upheaval, mixing things up generally and knocking scientific and geological theories into a "pi,'" which no doubt accounts in a great measure for the tardy development of its great mineral wealth, for the theories of the scientific world are stubbornlv held, as they must be to maintain their position against ignorance and prejudice, and where these theories say there is but little gold it is hard to see any, and nothing but actual demonstration will convince them of Its presence in large quantities. Fortunately this demonstration has been made and all doubts on this point have been removed by the $110,000,000 of gold already extracted from its hiding place.
Scientists tell us that ten of the geologic ages arc here exposed to the scrutiny of humanity's investigations, and that but two of the universal organic elements are lacking. Nowhere else on the globe has nature gathered into one place so complete a collection of her wonders and curios as in this, the greatest of earth's curiosity shops.
H. N. ROSS, DISCOVERER OF BLACK HILLS GOLD. Photo by Banford.
Tbe Custer ExpeditioD pitched Its battery on Battery Knoll at lelt July 26, 1ST4. The
next momlDg H. N. Ross, a mining expert, washed the flrat gold Trom the French
Creeh hed can be traced at right. The creek now runs back
of the railroad track.
Placer Mining.
MINERS DRILLING 1,000 FEET DOWN IN HOLY TERROR MINE. Phoi
PermSDeDt quartz mlnea have followed the placer mining oF early days In the Black HlllB. and are now yielding 1 15. 000 .ODD a year, with a development that will double the production In nve years.
WHAT A TOURIST SEES IN THE BLACK HILLS— ConiiaanJ.
In this imposing display of valuable minerals are most commonly found sold, silver, tin, per, iron, lead, graphite, asbestos, spodumene, mica, wolframite, gypsum, ciialk, corundum, lithograptf stone, kaolin, manganese, mineral paint, marble, and a iiost of others, while as an interesting study f the less mercenary student and scientist is found an array of curious and beautiful specimens, inclut ing petrified and agatized wood, petrified moss, various colored quartz, white, smoky and rose, of 6 very fine quality. A pure white and water clear satin spar, a great variety of crystals {quartz ; calcite), many of them exceedingly rare and beautiful ; the transparent golden brown four-sided bat crystals being found nowhere else. A beautiful varigated breccia or pudding stone that takes i fine polish. A vari-colored "calico" or striped and faulted sandstone, several shades and textures of tiachyte, maracasite, saponite, galena, azurite, malacite, fiuorite. dulamite. deudrile, hornblende, andesite, gleuconite, phonolite, tourmaline, garnets, beryls, amethysts, smoky topaz, sardonyx, onxy, phenecite, chalcedony, and many others. This brilliant array of gold and gems has a setting of rugged, pinecovered mountains, deep, rocky, picturesque canons, and dancing, sparkling mountain streams, together covering an area of six thousand square miles, about one hundred miles long riy sixty miles wide.
The scenery of the Black Hills is unique and picturesque, ;.mply repaying the tori.st who anticipates not the imjKisingly grand, but the beautiful. Its mountains do not rise above the timber line, but are covered to the top with a dense growth of dark pines, that in the distance and in shadow looks almost a pure black, which has given them the name of Black Hills.
Harney Peak, the highest point, and center of this upheaval, toward which the strata in all directions point, is more than eight thousand feet high, being the highest elevation in the United States east of Pike's Peak, yet the altitude of the surrounding country is so great as to reduce its apparent
HOMESTAKE, F. E. & M. V. R. R. AND D. C. TRAINS, LEAD, 8. D. PholK by Sunfor.l
Lead 1b perhaps the only place where three railroads may be seen one above the other. which Klves some Impreaalon of. the rugsednesa of Ble.cV -
OPEN CUT ON CLAIM NO. 2 OF HIDDEN FORTUNE CO. I'luM
Fonnerly owned Uy Otto P. Th. Grantz, who slipped from same several rarloads o( phenomenally rich ore amounting to SO.OOO.OI).
Group Of Eastern Stockholders And Investors
iDSpectlsg the new Hnd of one of the richest bodies of free gold ever dtacovered tn the
world on the Hidden Fortune property at Lead, S. D. A apeclinen
running IIOD.OOO was uncovered by one of this party.
WHAT A TOURIST SEES IN THE BLACK HILLS— Cm f/nifd'.
height and cause it, and also the other high points, to appear but hills to the observer, but the rugged, niassivc rocks, beautiful forest-covered hills, and the many unique things peculiar to this remarkable section, makes a tour of the Black Hills a pleasure long to be remembered.
The dawn of the Black Hills history rises in the dim, uncertain light of Indian tradition. Its first rays are tinted, like the sunrise, with yellow, giistening with golden color, to he followed by the deeper blood tints, ere the full day of civilization had reached its meridian.
Ancient traditions say that about 1833 a party of adventurous miners, seven iu number. entered the hills in search of gold. Their placer mining muddied the stream, which attracted the keen eyes of the savages and aroused their hunting instinct, they supposing it to be the work of heavers. Stealthily following up the stream they discovered the httle band of miners, and startled them with the war whoop, massacred all but one of the number, who fled in the direction of the present site of Spearfish, but was finally captured and shared the fate of his comrades, their gold lieing sold to the Hudson Bay Company for $18,000. In evidence of the truth of this story the pioneers of Spearfish show a stone supjMsed to have been inscribed by the fugitive member of the party shortly before his capture.
Various stories are told throughout the Hills of evidences of the white man's presence before any certain facts of such occupation is recorded, as no such possible intruder into this mysterious country ever returned to tell of his thrilling experience.
.\ncient tradition also says that Peter John De Smet, a Belgian Jesuit, who labored acceptably as a missionary among the Indians from 1840 and who estimated that he traveled 120,000 miles during the first fifteen years of his ministry, gave to a Sioux chief a pistol, who shortly after receiving the gift brought some gold nuggets to the missionary to be moulded into bullets for his wonderful weapon.
HARNEY PEAK, SHOWrNG ELKHORN PEAK IN DISTANCE. Photo by QutKRiE
This Is the highest peak Id the HIUb. From Its Bummlt may be seen ibe TA.'a. %'0\% and the aiirrouading plains in three st&teK, Nebraska and WyomiiiK.
HIDDEN FORTUNE MILL. Smith MrKay. Conatructlog Engineer, 721 Seventeenth St., Denver, Colorado.
Portland Mill Of The Columbus Con. Q. M. Co.
TblB cyaalde plant la now bandllng 60 tons of ore dally. nettiDg about $12,000.00 per
month. Another mill or 1,000 tons daily capacity, for there Is an
abundance of ore, la soon to be erected.
WHAT A TOURIST SEES IN THE BLACK HILLS— Cm //bw.
The first expedition of white men who returned' from this interesting-country was an exploriii expedition under General Harney in 1855, who named the highest point in the Hills. Harney Pet The next year General Warren resumed the work left uncompleted the previous year by General ney, that of reconnoitering for a desirable military route west. From Fort Laramie they entered t Hills by the east bank of Beaver Creek, made a partial map of the Hills and some record of the geology of the country, but their further progress was interrupted, and their expedition cut short by meetin) a large band of hostile Sioux Indian buffalo hunters in the western foothills near Inyan Kara.
In the early seventies at Sioux City appeared considerable agitation regarding the colonizing' of the Black Hills, which developed such active preparation as to attract the attention of the government, causing an order to be issued to disperse any bands organized for that purpose and to arrest the leader. This legal oil poured upon the troubled waters of excited adventure, quieted the agitation of the question for a time, but resulted in the Custer expedition two years later.
General Custer left Fort Abraham Lincoln, on the opposite bank of the Missouri river from Bismarck, N. D., about two hundred miles north of the Hills, July 2, 1874, with ten companies of cavalry, two companies of infantry, scouts, teamsters and miners, in all a band over one thousand strong.
The last named characters were by no means least in importance in this noted company, and when at the expiration of the sixty days time limit allowed for the expedition, Custer had returned to the fort, and sent in his report to Washington, long before it reached the capital of the nation the contagious gold fever had spread among the gold-hungry spirits of the frontier, and on October 6 Captain T. H. Russell started from Sioux City with the historic "Gordon party," composed of twenty six men, one woman and one boy.
COLUMBUS CONSOLIDATED CO.'S HOISTING AND COMPRESSOR PLANT. Photo I. TbiB plant le 70 borse power and operates 12 powerful Leyner drills In opening the great Mother Lode of the Black Hills, which has produced mlllionB for the HomestakQ Co.
Penobscot Mill.
Kraiik Cazin. din-iiMae Mi-rhanlial Engineer. 3'iS MePhee Biiil'liiiR. Iif'nvf'r. Colorailo.
PENOBSCOT MINING COMPANY'S MINE AND REDUCTION WORKS, Maltlaod. South Dakota.
WHAT A TOURIST SEES IN THE BLACK HILLS— &/7/ikj'.
Their train consisted of six canvas covered wagons, drawn by four cattle each. This party, nearly tiiere months on tlic way, entered the Hills near Bear Bntie. and located wliere the city of Custer now stands, almut Christmas time, in a very travei-worn and dilapidated condition. They had Custer's oiit-hound trail near Bear Butte and had followed it back to French Creek, where Mr. H. X. Ross, still a resident of Custer, had panned the first gold but a lew months before. Here they settled down, built a stockade for defense against the Indians, whom they leh sure would attack them as as they rliscmered this intrusion upon tlie ground they had been taught to believe belonged to ihcm, and to wash out fortunes for themselves from the soil of the French Creek valley.
This part of gold seekers had encountered no Indians, as tlie Black Hills had never been the Indians' home. The severe electric storms that center around Harney !'eak ever been a terror anil a dread to the savages, and had caused them to look uimn the Hills as ihe abode of evii spirits, and while sonie of the most darinjj ones occasionally ventured into the Hills on a short hinting expedition, they never remained long, or thought of creeping their te])ees so near to their infernal ni;ii;bbors.
This little party did, however, encounter the I'nited States government. Tlie Indians have always lelt free to violate their treaties to remain solely on their reservation, hut have re-dented with the bitter animo.-ity of the >avage any invasion of their reservations by white men. sn tlie United States governnieni ha-: t'ounii re-ting upon its shoulders the double duly of enforcing In >ih -ides of their treaties with the red men. Accordingly troops arrested this adventurous party and removed them from the Hills on April 5. 1875, a little more than three months after they had entered their EI Dorado. But their labor had not been in vain; a new civilization had been born for the Black Hills. They had not dug for theinselves great fortunes, but had carved for themselves a great name in the
Devil'S Tower.
e of tbe most unique Keologlcal rormatlons in the world, 800 feet high, and one mile In clrcumrerence. It la believed by BOm \.q "Oat cone ot an extl&cl gev&i.
Glover Gold Mining Company'S Mine.
One mile rrom Lead. S. D. Homestake. Hidden For and timber.
Thla company owra one hundred acres Burroiinded by the une and Golden Reward gold mines, with mill Bite, water The railroad crosseB the grounds, and a boat is now being et%d.
Brick Yard Of Bartlett And Phillips. I
ThlB brick yard la the largeat In the Hilla, located between Uei-stnifi v&i. provldea moat of the brick UBed In Ihe NoTttiam \)afe of which tB excepUoTiftWu ftivft.
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WHAT A TOURIST SEES IN__THE BLACK HILLS— Cof/tt//
picturesque hillsides and had cracked the shell from which was to burst into life, not one fortune, but many. The world took up the cry, "Eureka!" and the beginning of the end had come to the red man's fictitious claim to "the richest one hundred miles square in the worid;" for it is subduing and replenishing, not hunting and fishing, that gives a Creator's claim to any territory on eartli, great or small. Tlie practical, more advanced thought of cumulative experience is beginning to break throtlgil the sentimental barriers erected by poets of the past, and the world is beginning to see as the true principle the one established in the beginning, that previous occupation of any country which their hands' have not cultivated or improved, gives no people a right to it; that the uncultivated fruits of earf};.' are as free to one as to another, and it is only as an individual or a nation has put their own labor upon it that they may hold any claim above others, to any part of earth. In spite of .sentimental prejudices it is becoming a self-evident fact to those familiar with Indian affairs, that the treaties based upon this fictitious claim have been extremely baneful in tlieir effects upon the Indians, and it is hoped that some just way may soon be found to correct these errors of tlie past and cultivate industry and thrift in the Indian character, for the harboring of indolence and improvidence is a menace to amy nation.
After removing these intruders the government immediately ordered an e.splorin,' party into the Hills, and on May jo, 1S75, the Jenney expedition left Fort Laramie four hundred strong, reached Custer June 16, and remained in the Hills until October. In July, General Crook arrived in the Hills with a strong command, and with orders to expel all miners, but between the lines could be read j no uncertain language "protection"' for the miners, while efforts were being made to conciliate the dictive savages. He made a compromise with the miners, allowing seven men to be left in cl a.i trustees of their claims, two of whom still reside in the Hills, Samuel R. Shankland of Custc
SPEARFISH FALLS. These Falls are In SpearBsb Canon, eight miles above aft.T&&\\, Vv.xV'o.f, % \t;&
Qlae tet.
Golden Reward Smelter, Deadwood, 8. D.
Photo by San ford.
This iB the pioneer smelter of the Black Hills, having a capacity of 3&0 tons of elliceoua
ore to 500 tons ot Jess refractory ore per day, and employs one
hundred and seventy-ftve men.
FEED FLOOR— GOLDEN REWARD SMELTER. Ph.ilu by Siinfnrd.
uth of blast fiirDace. In the smelting process the ore 1b melted in a blast First the coke Is dumped in, at (he mouth of the furnace on the second floor; next the sulphite, then the ore. lastly the llmeetoDe.
WHAT A TOURIST SEES IN THE BLACK HILLS— Cm/(w/
A. D. Trask of Pactola. In obedience to the orders of General Crook, the miners, with the exception of these trustees who remained in the stockade erected by the Gordon party, left the Hills on August lO, but they did not go far, and as nothing had been said about the time of absence, most ' of them were back in six weeks with reinforcements, industriously panning out the grold. The inevitable conflict between light and darkness, between advancement and retrogration, civiHzation and savagery, waxed warm and resuUed in the awful tragedy of the Little Big Horn, July 25, 1876, the echo of which resounded in the terrible retribution at Wounded Knee in November, 1891.
These wrongs, more or less on both sides, make the zigzag lines that form the characters of the alphabet of human experience, and in these crooked, and to many meaningless, characters is written the advance of civilization.
The settlement of the Black Hills went merrily on. In November the cavalry was withdrawn and government opposition to mining in the Black Hills ceased. By April. 1876. Custer had grown to be a city of 7,000 inhabitants, Hill City and Rapid City had been laid out, and with the discovery of rich placer mines at Deadwood the future occupation of the Black Hills was well established.
The early visitors to the HilU found it a hard journey in which all the privations and hardships of ordinary pioneer travel were not only endured, but were increased many fold by the Bad Lands which nearly surrounded the Hills. This is a hit of genuine reality in the great myth of the "American Desert," and many a party bound for the Black Hills has well nigh famished within its borders, or suffered serious sickness from drinking the brackish waters occasionally found trickling down the gulches with tempting clearness.
The wonderful wealth of this "richest one hundred miles square in the world" had indeed well guarded by Mother Nature. Not only had she hidden the great riches beneath the surfi
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MATTE FLOOR— GOLDEN REWARD SMELTER— SHOWING FURNACES. Photo b
As faat as the ore Is melted it runs out in a Btream into a vat called the Fore-hes.rtJ.
RUNNING THE SLAG— GOLDEN REWARD SMELTER. Phal
i, with the limestone flux, forms the slag . which rune out Trom the top of the vat Into large cast iron kettles mounted on trucks, called slag pots.
Tapping The Matte— Golden Reward Smelter.
The metal, called matte, Ib drawn from the bottom of the fore-hearth Into a matte not on
wheels. When the metal Is drawn olT, the hole Is plugged by a
ball of clay on a long iron rod.
WHAT A TOURIST SEES IN THE BLACK HILLS— CmmurJ.
posing only a few hints of its presence, she had also erected about it this ahnost impenetrable barricade of the Bad Lands and then set g:iiard over it the "terrible" Sioux.
Thus guarded, it is not strange that it lay unmolested at the very door of civilization for many generations.
The most commonly accepted theory regarding this strange freak of nature known as the Bad Lands is that this particular part of creation was a lake at the time of the upheaval. A deposit, in places four hundred feet deep, had accumulated during the ages in the bed of the lake, and by one of the strange coincidents in the actions ol nature the uplift seems to have come nearly in the center of this prehistoric lake. The upheaval cracked this alluvial bed into innumerable fissures, through which the waters of the displaced lake and of the centuries since then have cut their way.
No vegetation has ever been able to find sustenance in this alkali-saturated clay, and for barrenness and bewildering mazes of peaks and gullies the like of it is to be found nowhere else on earth.
In this dry deposit is preserved numerous aquatic specimens of prehistoric fossils: bacuHtes, ammonites, shales and petrifactions of many kinds, while boulders of all dimensions, from geodes the size of hickory nuts to several feet in diameter, have in their center cavities lined with most beautiful calcite crystals, all of which makes it a most interesting and fascinating hunting ground for geologists and' scientists, but a most unhospitable and undesirable route for the practical, unromantic wayfarer to tK gold fields. It was on a table land surrounded by these mazes and fissures, inaccessible to the uninitiated, that the followers of Sitting Bull resorted in their uprising of 1891.
In ajcWition to the excessive hardships of the trail was the fear and terror of the bloodcurdling redskins' tfit warwhoop and the almost equally dreaded danger of capture and burning of their trains by States cavalry.
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DUMPING THE SLAG— GOLDEN REWARD SMELTER, DEADWOOO. T'hn
An electric motor draws the vats of white-hot slag out on the dump and it la emptied
BLACK HILLS AND DENVER GOLD MINING COMPANY. Capital. (2,000,000; stares 11.00 each; full paid and non-asseHBable. PrCBldent. S. H, Blakeelee, Denver, Colo.; Secretary, J. M. Blakealee, ABhtabula. Ohio; Director W. T. Skelton, Denver. Colo.; Director W. T. Graham, Omaha. Neb.; Director Robert C. Haya, Deadwood, S. D.; Manager, M. H. Prencb, Deadwood, S. D.
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SPRUCE GULCH, SHOWING BLACK HILLS AND DENVER GOLD MINING COM- PANY'S PROPERTIES. These ponslsl of Ibree liundrerl acres located aloiiK the ore zone of Spruce Gulch, entirely covering the water rights, upon which haa heeu erected a well
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WHAT A TOURIST SEES IN THE BLACK mUS—Ca><tii,acJ.
To avoid the two latter difficulties the pioneers were obliged to travel "light," with barely enough provisions to last them to their journey's end, there to meet their equally impoverished neighbors and live with them nn the meager provision nature had made for their sustenance.
Enterprising men soon saw the opportunity for profitable freight and passenger traffic ; and in spite of extreme difficulties in their way, provided the much needed transportation. Indeed, the Sioux City capitalists who aided the "Gordon party" to make their first visit to the Hills, had in view as one object of opening the Hills to settlement this important item in increasing assets. The most farsighted, enterprising ami persevering in this herculean undertaking was the late Colonel Fred T, Evans, at the time of his recent death a resident of Hot Springs.
When the pioneers of '74 left Sioux City for the Black Hills, it was with the understanding that a delegation should return as soon as possible to inform their supporters of their success and prospects. Accordingly, on February 6. John Gordon and Eaf Wichner left the stockade at Custer on this perilous mis.sion, bearing letters to friends and for publication, and gold to testify of their success, an earnest of what the Black Hills was to be to the citizens of our country. After a dangerous journey of twenty-three days, their horses exhausted and themselves provisionless, they arrived at Sioux City, to meet one of the warm receptions enthusiastic frontiersmen know so well how to give out of the abundance of their large heartedness.
These two intrepid frontiersmen joined enthusiastically with Colonel Evans in preparations to return to their comrades on French Creek, with supplies and reinforcements, not knowing that a few days after their departure for Sioux City another party of three had left the stockade for Fort Laramie and one of their number had donned the blue regimentals of the government and was already piloting the troops back to the stronghold on French Creek. Twenty-four mules and six new covered wagons
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Homestake Mills.
Photo by Sanford.
Tbe HomesUke Mining Company is tbe largest In tbe world, capltalUed at ¥22.000,004,
eouJpped with 900 tampa. capable or crushing 3,600 tons of ore per day
with an annaal prodnctlon of nearly $6,000,000.
H0ME3TAKE CYANIDE PLANT. tons per day. Thle immense plant cyanides tbe talllngB from the Stamp Mills, saving 150,000 per month that was [ormerly lost.
WHAT A TOURIST SEES IN THE BLACK HILLS— CmtiffLt J.
were bought and equipped by the company under the name of the Sioux City and Black Hills Transportation Company. To this train of six four-mule teams were attached fourteen teams of Black Hills adventurers and about sixty passing;ers. Each passenger was weighed with his baggage and a charge of fifteen cents per pound was made for their transportation lo the much coveted gold fields, with a proviso in the contract thxit in case of attack from either Indians or United States troops all responsibility of the company should cease.
About May l this enthusiastic party started on their ill-fated journey with Cordon as guide. Their route followed up the south side of the Niobrara river, crossing Long Pine at its mouth and reaching the place where Gordon City now stands. Here, about the middle of June, United States troops under Captain Walker, arrested and turned them back, burning several of the wagons, among them one of the new ones, and all the supplies not needed for the return trip. This misadventure put an end to the operations of the recently organized company, but not to the operations of the invincible Colonel. Later in the fall he dispatched two teams to Custer, and in the spring of '76 equipped the same mule teams he had started with the previous year, and later in the season formed a partnership with John Hornick to transport goods from Fort Pierre to Deadwood, making two trips that fall. The next spring they met their first and only serious loss from Indian depredations. When within a day's march of Deadwood, at what was then called Crook City, the Indians killed their night herder and drove away two hundred of their oxen. A year later, in the spring of '78. Colonel Evans bought out his partner and continued the business under the name of The Evans and Fort Pierre Transportation Company, and from that time until the railroad entered the Hills ten years later, carried the larger share of the goods transported to the Hills, employing during the busiest season two thousand oxen and four hundred mules.
Scenic Wonder Line.
Photn by Sanford
New Bxtenston Fremont, Elktaora and Miesourt Valley R. R. between Deadwood and
LeRd. Tbl8 ride or Ave miles Ib one o[ grand views and
most picturesque Bcenee.
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Scenic Wonder Line— Qavville.
Pholo by Sanford.
This new extension of the Fremont. Elkhom and Mleeourl Valley R. R. follows up Deadwood Oulcb to Gayvllle, where gold was first discovered In Deadwood Oulch.
What A Tourist Sees In The Black Hills—
During the winter of '75 and '76 Captain March and James Stephenson, who owned the stage route to Fort Robinson, started what was called the Sidney rente to the Hills, which proved to be the most practical route for passenger traffic, and their stage line carried the larger part of the passengers and express that entered the Hills prior to the advent of the railroad, in spite of both hostile Indians and road agents.
The next season the route from Bismark, North Dakota, was opened by Captain Blakeley and C. W. Carpenter of St. Panl. Minnesota. All these routes did a thriving business until driven out of the field by the irresistible "iron horse." Oneof these frontier transportation trains was a unique and quite imposing spectacle in its way. Each team consisted of eight or ten yokes of oxen, drawing three very large wagons. The first wagon, called the "lead," was freighted with eight thousand pounds of merchandise, the .second wagon, called the "swing," carried five thou,sand pounds, and the third wagon, called the "trail," carried three thousand five hundred pounds, making in all a load of a little more than eight tons, divided into nearly two equal parts. When a hard place was struck on the trail, the swing and trail wagons were dropped and the lead wagon drawn past the difficult place, the team returned for the remaining wagons, and the journey resumed with little delay.
In good weather about thirty days were consumed by the trip from Pierre to Deadwood. No grain was provided for tlie cattle, the nutritious buffalo grass being all they to keep in good condition. Mess was ready at 4 o'clock in the morning, after which a run or rather crawl of ten or twelve miles was made and about the middle of the afternoon the cattle were turned out to graze until the next morning.
A Jolly company was this that made up the personnel of a transportation train across the plains. Each team required a teamster, each train a foreman and a niht herder, and usually a
Old Man Rock.
a situated In Red Canon. In no place In the world can be found such a variety at fantaBtlc shapes of rock formations as In the Black HIUb.
Point Rock.
Typical Black Hills Milk Ranch.
Photo by San ford.
WHAT A TOURSIST SEES IN THE BLACK HILLS— Continut.
Siiderable mimber of pilgrims tn llie Black Hills attached themselves to the train for company's sake, a very desirable thing over n strange trail in a hostile Indian country and throupli the Bad Lands.
The mail facilities of the Hills was also a serions problem that provided an almost spectacular display of frontiersman's nerve, ingenuity and daring. For the first eighteen months letters for the Black Hills trusted wholly to the good will and precarious care of the various parties bound for the new gold fields, and upon arrival were turned over to the self-apjxjinted postmaster, who charged fifty cents per letter and gave a commission to the carrier. So many letters began to coitie in that this became quite a source of revenue, and in May. 1876, daring riders on fleet ponies began going out after the mail to Fort Laramie, Sidney and Cheyenne, carrying the mail both ways between these points and Custer, Deadwood and the most important mining camps. These daring riders, too wary and fleet for the Indians and too well armed and agile for road agents, have a record of never losing a mail pouch and seldom being behind time.
The price of postage was reduced to twenty-five cents per letter and prompt delivery secured. The entire mail service, however, passed in a few months into the hands of the Cheyenne and Black Hills Stage Line, which continued to carry mail after the treaty was signed by the Indians in 1877. which cost "Uncle Sam" $4,500,000, and the government had opened postoflices in the Hilts.
A present day trip to the Black Hills means all the comfort of modern railroad travel, sleeping car, dining car and a well ballasted roadbed, and an amount of sightseeing that will many times repay the effort and expense. Two trunk lines enter the Black Hills, the Fremont, Elkhorn & Missouri Valley, skirting the eastern foothills until opposite Deadwood, then turns abruptly and makes the climb to Deadwood-and Lead. The Burlington koute, striking the I-
B
KNIFE BLADE ROCK AND H0R8EBHOE CURVE. In the beautiful Elk Creek Canon, one mile below Crystal Cave.
Photo by San ford.
19
—
J
SPEARFISH CANON. Tte widest known aad by far the most beautiful c
Photo by Ban ford.
1 In tbe Black Hills.
Spearpish Canon.
The rugged pfoe clad rocks rtee on either side to the height of 1.000 feet. The beautiful
mouDtain stream Blied with speckled and salmon trout, mft.V.%
canon a flBheniis.Q'B 9ftT&<)\ft.
WHAT A TOURIST SEES IN THE BLACK HILLS— CffD/z/iBf.
south almost in the center, passes througli the Hills within a few miles of Harney Peak, and going directly toward and Lead, with a branch from Englewood to Sjjearfish.
The Fremont, Elkhorn & Missouri Valley has the honor of being the pioneer railroad into the Hills. Its line reached Buffalo Gap September 14. 1888, and made that place a thriving frontier city, with a brilliant but brief career. Pushing on, the railroad reached Rapid City the =;th of tfie next June, and Whitewood on November 21. 1889. The work of building the road from Whitewood to Deadwood occupied the next three years, ant! the first train entered Deadwood December 2g, 1890. In the meantime two branch lines had been constructed, one to Belle Fourche from Whitewood, which was opened on the same date as the main line to Deadwood ; and one from Buffalo Gap to Hot Springs, owned September 8, 1890. The following year it extended branches from Deadwood to Ruby Basin, Bald Mountain and several mining camps in the famous Bald Mountain gold fields.
During the present season it has extended its line from Deadwood to Lead, opening what is called the Scenic Wonder Line, entering the city directly in front of the Homestake mills, crossing the Deadwood Central track just under the Homestake ore trestle, and stopping in the very heart of the business portion of Lead, where a fine depot is in process of erection one block from the Smead hotel, the postoffice and the Homestake offices.
The B. & M. in Nebraska built its line from to Deadwood. a distance of one hundred and six miles, in 1890, reaching Deadwood in January. 1891. A branch was built from Minnekahta east to Hot Springs, a distance of thirteen miles, reaching the latter point in July, 1891. In 1892 a branch was started from Englewood, eight miles south of Deadwood, to Spearfish. thirty-one miles away in the northeastern foothills, which was completed in December the following year. It passes
Cheyenne Falls.
The two arms or the Cheyenne River encircle the HUIb, one paeslDg North, one South, the Falls being situated on the South branch, a little below Buffalo Oap.
Iron Mountain.
This is a mountain of Iron ore. The vein can be traced one mile and the widest part
Is 950 feet. It Is situated on the Fennfngton-Custer county line.
Tour miles south of Keystone.
FALL RIVER OR MINNEKAHTA FALLS. )'l
These Falls arc sltuatt'tl on Fall River, four nillfs Ix'luw Hot SiirlnKx. At the be Been Robbers' Cave, the -zvoiiB Xjmok SYi'\i; . Wdc
WHAT A TOURIST SEES IN THE BLACK HILLS— Cmiiued.
over Bald Mountain down into Spearfish canon, forming the most romantic and picturesque route in the Hills.
These two roads form a belt line for the Hills, and a tourist going norlli on one and south on the other is brought in touch with all the main points of interest in the Hills.
Leaving Omaha about the middle of the afternoon, there is not much to attract or interest the traveler famiHar with prairie scenery. The monotonous roll of the prairie, the periodical farm house and the ever present gopher have ' attained that familiarity that well nigh breeds contempt, and the afternoon wears wearily away until the shadows lengthen and darkness draws its veil over the monotonous scene, leaving only a vague sense of the vastness of this great country of ours, and the myriads of its population. The morning reveals no change in the general aspect of the outlook from the car window, and were it not for the fact that the conductor has torn off two hundred and fifty miles from your mileage book one might imagine that the train had been side-tracked over night, and had taken up the journey again where darkness had closed in the view of the day before. Consulting the time table and looking at one's watch reveals the fact that sometime, somewhere during the night the watch has slipped a cog and lost an hour, and for once you have been an early riser, but the railroad management would not be so rude as to hint at your ignorance in the matter and mark the schedule for your benefit; so you comfort yourself with the thought that there is an extra hour for sight-seeing, which is fast becoming interesting. The rolls of the prairie have become more pronounced, ranches have supplanted the periodical farm house, and even if the same everlasting gopher still scurries beside the train, there is something else to look at.
Straggling, stunted pines appear on the higher rolls that are beginning to roll themselves into the famous Black Hills. The dark soil of the farm lands has turned into the vcllow ochre of the
Burke'S Stone Companies Quarrv.
SAW PLANT or THE BURKE'S STONE QUARRY. LiOfatei on a spur ot the Blkhorn Railroad about Ave miles east of Hot Springs.
CAPITALS CUT FROM BURKE STONE. Used Id the contructloD of the Deadwood Hotel,
WHAT A TOURIST SEES IN THE BLACK HILLS— 0(/*rf.
ranches, and again that has turned into the burnt sienna of the mining country, the red dust covering buildings and fences, making the little towns with big names look as if a coat of oil would give them a permanent coat of paint.
Occasional spires and rocks tell we are passing through the borders of the Bad Lands. The Black Hills are peaking their dark points through the notches in the foothills and we feel that expectation will soon be realization. The brakeman calls "Buffalo Gap! Change cars for Hot Springs. Twenty minutes for breakfast." As Hot Springs is but a thirty-five minute ride away, it is quite unnecessary for the tourist bound for Hot Springs to rush to a hasty breakfast, but may change cars at his leisure and also eat breakfast at his leisure at his hotel in Hot Springs, the Carlsbad of the Black Hills.
Evans Stone Quarry.
Thl8 Ib a quarry of pink sandstDne of the finest quality, from which have been erected
the Evans Hotel, and Bath House. The Mlnnekabta Block. The Ollleaple
and several other large bulldtnKS.
Hot Springs.
The history of the pre-civilized days of this important place is something moi : than mysterious legend. Since the beginning of the seventeenth century the now famous Minnejtahta Springs had been the natural sanatorium of the Cheyenne Indians until little more than half a century ago, when tradition says occurred the sanguinary three days' conflict which gave Battle Mountain its name, proved the "Waterloo" of the Cheyennes, and gave the coveted springs to the "terrible Sioux."
In the Minnekahta bath bouse may still be seen the original moccasin-shaped indian bath tub they had carved out of the rock just below the spring.
The first white men to discover the hot springs were Prof. Newton and Dr. McGillicmkly, during their survey of the Black Hills in 1875. but their discovery seems to have created no interest and did not become generally known.
In the winter of yS-'jg James Gibson from Hill City, now living near Minnekahta, was hunting in the foothills and, killing three deer a short distance below the springs, was packing them to camp on Cold Brook, just above the present location of the city, when his pack mule mired in the valley just below the Minnekahta spring. Gibson found it necessary to wade in the brook in spite of the biting cold and the fact that his feet were already numb. To his surprise he found his cold feet growing warm, and upon investigation discovered he was in warm water. His discovery interested Hill City parties, who became the first settlers.
In the spring of '79 Prof. Jenney and Col. Thornby visited the springs and Col. Thornby posted a location notice at the springs. A little later, in June of the same year, Messrs. Trimmer, Rumbo and Reno came down from Hill City and located cattle ranches in the valley where the city now stands, the next year bringing their families and establishing permanent homes, Mr. Trimmer still residing on his original location.
In the fall of '79 Joseph Laravie, a Frenchman with a squaw wife, came from the Reservation to bathe at the famous Minnekahta, and built a It cabin over the spring as a protection from the weather.
Hot Springs— Upper Town.
Photo by Cole.
VALE OF MINNEKAHTA. Palace Hotel. Mammoth Sprinsa Plunse. Evans Plunge.
into by Sanfard.
MAMMOTH SPRINGS PLUNGE. Photo by Colo.
Erected Id 1901. A sanitary bath through which flows a constant etream of naturally warm mineral water, aod In addition to this It is emptied and thoroughly cleaned every night.
HOT SPRINGS— fin W.
Early in the next year Joseph Petty brought John Wilson, the first white patient for the treatment of rheumatism, to the springs, prostrate with the dread disease, who by six weeks use of the mineral baths was fully restored and never suflfered a return of the malady.
By the summer of 1881 Turner, Laravie and Davidson had formed a partnership and built a log hotel seventy feet long near the spring, at which Col. Thomby had made his location, and during the season had a number of patients. In the meantime Joseph Petty had located at the springs which now feed the famous plunge baths.
There are in Fall River canon, above and below Hot Springs, extending over a distance of four miles, about one hundred warm springs, varying in temperature from 94 to 98 degrees. The waters are clear and sparkling and vary but little in their chemical analysis.
In October, '81, Dr. Jennings and Dr. Stewart visited the place from Deadwood and about Christmas time bought nut the three partners and within a year had organized The Dakota Hot Springs Company, of Fred T. Evans. Dr. R. D. Jennings, Dr. A. S. Stewart, L. R. Graves and E. G- Dudley, and the history of the operations of this company forms a large part of the town's history.
Advancement and improvements were rapid. Mr. Koler located the Sulphur Springs and built the first frame house, which still stands nn the main street above the Mower House.
The Dakota Hot Springs Company, under the enterprising management of the late Col. Fred T. Evans, built a magnificent three-story hotel at an expense of $40,000. naming it the Minnekahta Hotel, which was then considered a model of luxury and made Hot Springs the Mecca of all Black Hills tourists.
The coming of the Fremont, Elkhorn & Misosuri Valley Railroad in 1890 marked an epoch in the history of the town, the monuments of which are the new Gillespie Hotel, a fine four-story structure, just across the .-Jtreani from the Minnekahta, built of the beautiful pink sandstone from the Evans quarry. The Hot Springs House, at the site of the original Minnekahta springs, another fourstory structure of the same material, and the Soldiers' Home, a fine four-story building capable of entertaining two hundred old soldiers, the culmination of efforts begun five years before by Col. Lucas at a meeting of the Grand Army held at Watertown in March, 1886. The cornerstone was laid with
The Evans.
ecled in lStl2 of the peace-blow BaDdatone from the Evans Quarries, capable of a conmiodating lour hundred Bueata.
ma
Minnekahta Block.
Occupied by Cleveland and Jucket; Counsel ors-at-I..aw, Qarhart. Jeweler,
Emil Hargeae, Druggist, and The Connor
fnstftute of Osteopathy.
Photo by Cole.
THE NEW GILLESPIE. The most popular hotel, nearest the Union depot. All modern Improvements, Including steam beat. Open the year round. Rates 12.00 per day. Write C. G. Fargo for rates by the week.
Masonic ceremonies in 1889, the building was completed and accepted by the board of directors in October, 1890, and opened for the reception of members November 26.
The next year saw the erection of a fine court house and the Evans plunge bath, two hundred and fifty feet long by fifty feet wide, with gravel bottom, cement walls and walks, which is filled with warm water rising from springs in the bottom, from which flow icx>,ooo gallons of water per hour, at a temperature of 96 degrees, keeping it constantly pure and clean.
About this time the Minnekahta Hotel, the pride of the Hills, was burned to the ground, which dire disaster only demonstrated the mettle of Col. Evans, and the following year saw the erection of the Evans Hotel at a cost of $120,000, the most artistic building in the Black Hills, built of pink sandstone, five stories high, capable of accommodating four hundred guests. In 1893 the Evans Bath House, east of the hotel, was added.
The twenty-first anniversary of the use of the hot springs by white men, 1901, was marked by the erection of the Mammoth Springs Bath, equal in every respect to the Evans Plunge, with cement bottom and walls through which flows an abundant supply of the healing waters, and which is daily emptied and thoroughly cleansed, forming the finest of sanitary baths.
At the last session of Congress a National Sanatorium was located at Hot Springs and an appropriation of $170,000 set aside for the Iwginning of the work, which it is expected will, before its completion, involve an outlay by the government of from $2,000,000 to $3,000,000 and establish one of the finest sanatoriums in the world. The buildings will be located at the foot of Battle Mountain on a plateau containing several hundred acres of ground. A park extending from the top of the blufifs forming the side of the vale of Minnekahta, east two miles over the top of Battle Mountain and from the original townsite four miles north to the Custer county line, has been laid out. Some six thousand acres of government land included in this area have been set aside and the balance obtained by purchase. The plans included a reservoir on top of Battle Mountain from which the water may be conducted in pipes and irrigating ditches over the park, which will make the now seemiily barren hills luxuriant with vegetation. A macadamized road winding up to the top of Battle Mountain and attend'mg two miles along its crest will form an attractive boulevard.
The Evergreen Cemetery And Mortuary Association.
'If
Hot Springs— ,/.
Never did Nature provide a better opportunity for the art of the landscape gardener than may be found on the sides of this historic mountain, and with its rugged beauty enhanced by cultivation, the balmy ozone-laden atmosphere, sunny days and buoyant air of its thirty-five hundred feet elevation and healing mineral waters, it will be an ideal home indeed for invalid or convalescent soldiers.
No person visiting the Black Hills should fail to see the wonders of Nature revealed in the far-famed Wind Cave, with its 3.000 rooms and upward of 100 miles of passageway. This cave is located twelve miles from Hot Springs, over a hard, smooth road, making a pleasant drive. The cave, together with a park of 23,000 acres covering it, is owned by the government. Its discovery, said to be in 1881, is clouded in pioneer uncertainty, several parties claiming the honor. It is believed to be an extinct geyser, where the hot water in former ages has washed out the limestone, leaving the myriad of cavities and passageways, with their fantastic forms and beautiful decorations.
While all of the three great caves known to exist in the Black Hills are similar in character, each has its distinguishing feature, that of Wind Cave box work. The heat had evidently cracked the limestone into all shapes and sizes of geometrical form. These cracks filled with fine calcite crystals and later the hot water washed out the limestone, leaving the calcite crystals as box work. In many of the rooms the edges of the box work are frosted with carbonate of lime.
The one hundred miles of passageway, as claimed by the guides, are not in a direct line but are formed by twelve parallel passages joined by irregular side passages of which there are eight tiers, forming a labyrinth far exceeding the intricacy of that of the ancient King, entirely covered, so far as is known, hy the 23.000 acres, less than five miles square, reserved by the government.
The cave derives its name by the inhalation and exhalation of air due to the weight of the atmosphere above. At the writer's first visit, on a beautiful day with no signs of an approachii% storm, upon entering the cave the wind was rushing out at a terrific rate, making the carrying of lights impossible for the first one hundred feet. Upon nearing the entrance after several hours spent in the cave the wind was found rushing in at an equal rate. The change being noted by one of the
aUFFALO GAP LUMBER COMPANY. fn-'U. by aonf-rd. This coaipaoy began buslneas at Buffalo Gap at an early day. the decline of the town they moved to Hot Springe, where, under the manaKement of P. C. Sllkenson, Uicy have built up a large buBlaegs.
J
'p
LIVERY BARN OF F. B. SMITH. Mr Smith ie a pioneer ot the Black Hills. He has for several years resided s Springs. fumUhing tourists with fine carriages and hacks to Wind Cave and other points of Interest.
OUR LADIES OF LOURDES SANITARIUM AND HOSPITAL. Phaw ijy Sn-.ror.l. Conducted liy the Benedictine Slaters, Hot Springs, S, D, This sonilariimi is open all the year; it) new and thoroughly modern. Trained niirse.i and capacity for Bfty perBona.
HOT SPRINGS— Cw/,/.
party, the guide replied there had been a change in the weather and it was probably raining outside, and sure enough on reaching the outer world a heavy thunder shower was passing over.
The original entrance was a round hole in the rock, ten or twelve inches in diameter, worn smooth by the action of the wind and water for unknown centuries. This has been blasted out and the opening enlarged, making a comfortable passageway over which has been erected a small log cabin, in the further corner of which is a trap-door, which the guide raises and we follow him down one stairway after another in utter darkness for a distance of one hundred and fifty-five feet, when candles are lighted and we find ourselves in the Bridal Chamber, the first room of this gigantic fairy palace, so named front a wedding having been performed there. From here three routes have been opened for comfortable traveling, in which one hundred and twenty special features are pointed out by the guide. The shortest one, requiring two hours to traverse, has been named the Garden of Eden route. The next, requiring three hours, is called the Fair Grounds. The largest one, called the Pearly Gates route, requires six hours. Several other routes upon which less work has been done in opening passageways, enables the traveler to see the cave just as Nature made it, are known to the guide and may be chosen if one desires the effort of crawling and climbing. They are called the Bee Hive, Crystal Palace, Wind River and Grand Canon routes.
The decorations of the various tiers of chambers are of special interest to the geological student. In the upijer tier stalactites, stalagmites and other onyx formations abound. In the second, frost work becomes common and in the third and fourth is found the most beautiful box work.
In the next three tiers are found a white formation popcorn, together with various colored crystals, while in the eighth, box work of large size and darker color is found.
The dazzling splendor of the various chairbers. the largest of which covers three acres, onethird larger than the largest room in Mammoth Cave, illuminated with calcium light, is indescribably beautiful and can only be comprehended by actual observation.
A
If
Ekm
Sioux Indians.
%
vJ
r
'
The I. O. O. F. Halu— Wind Cave.
Photo by Cole,
fl
Rapid City.
The opening of the new gold fields meant not only fortunes in gold mining, but new opportunities in every profession and branch of trade, and fortunes for those who could secure the most desirable locations. With this end in view, enterprising men began at once to reconnoiter for the most probable location of a metropolis of the Black Hills.
\\"hat little geographical information of the almost unknown country was available indicated some sight on Rapid Creek near the foothills as the proper location for the expected Denver of the gold fields. This was the decision arrived at both by the agent of certain Bismark parties having this end in view, and a party of Denver adventurers who had entered the Hills by the way of Cheyenne with the same aim in migrating to the newly opened Indian reservation.
The Denver party, thirty strong, reached the field about the twentieth of February, 1876, and proceeded at once tr> found the now famous Rapid City.
They were just in time to catch the first gusts of the storm of Indian war that was about to break with all its dread horrors, and the night of the 22d the Indians made their first raid upon Black Hills settlers, stealing seven horses from the party.
On February 24th, one mile square was staked out, in the center of which was laid out six blocks of thirty-two lots each. These lots were drawn two at a time by the locators, and the work of building a city began in earnest : Samuel Scott, who now resides at Custer, having the honor of the first cabin. In the evening of the 24th a town meeting was held and a board of five councilmen elected.
Within three days about three hundred settlers had arrived from Custer, Hill City, Sheridan and Crook City, the only settlements in the Hills at that time; but on the fourth day, the 28th of February, a party two hundred and fifty strong, from Bismark, arrived equipped to organize the town the Denver party had already started four days before. They refused, however, to assimilate with the organizers who had supplanted them in their purpose. So, moving four miles up the stream, they platted another town, naming it Upper Rapid.
RAPID CITY. Situated on the F. B. ft M. V. R. R.. about sixty mllea north ol Hot Springs, city of about Urteen hundred Inhabttuits.
photo by Snnlord.
wwm
U. S Land Office And Weather Bureau.
Photo by Santord.
First National Bank.
Rivalry between the two towns was strong and bitter, but t!ie wisdom of the Denver party in locating was demonstrated in lime, and the "survival of the fittest" gave the victory to Rapid City, but the divided interest proved a serious impediment in the development and growth of the youthful city.
Indian depredations began in earnest and on March 28th the Indians again raided the settlement, and succeeded in running ofif thirty-two of the thirty-six horses owned by the settlers.
On April 6th a man named August Herman was killed at Upper Rapid, and two days later an attempt to run off more horses from Rapid City was made, resulting in the severe wounding of an Indian. From this time on Indians were seen almost every day, and several victims fell into their hands. April isth Captain Dodge was killed at the present site of Piedmont, April 16th a man coming into the Hills from Pierre was killed a few miles east of town, and on May 6th, Texas Jack, Edwin Saddler, VV. H. Gardner and John Harrison were killed on the same road near town.
A block-house was built for defense in case of attack, and a constant guard maintained, but in such an exposed position the youthful city did not appear a very enticing location for settlers, and the discoveries of rich placer gold at Deadwood proved a very convenient pretext for the faint hearted to seek protection of the hills and the safety of numbers.
But twenty-eight stout-hearted settlers, loyal to their town remained to hold the Grate City for the Black Hills. Although Indians were seen almost daily, no further victims fell into their hands until the 226 of .Vugust, when two men named Patterson and Pendleton, coming from their mining camp six miles above Rapid City, were killed near the Cheyenne Springs. On the same day another man was killed on the Sheridan road ten miles from Rapid City, and "Reddy" Johnson and Martin Pensinger, whf> had hauled a load of lumber to a ranch owned by one of them two miles below town, were attacked by a band of twenty-two warriors, who gave them a lively chase until met by the vigilant turns()eople. This band of Indians then entered the Hills two miles north of town and laid in ambush on the Deadwood road. The first party to pass by was a train of eighty wagons and two hundred and fifty men, under the charge of Louis Volin. This train the Indians wisely let pass without molestation, but about four miles behind them came a team and wagon containing four men. As they passed the place of ambush within a few yards of the Indians they re-
The National Smelter Company.
Tbla smelter Is new and tborougbly modern, with a capacity or 500 tana per day.
It hu recent!}' became the property of the Horseshoe Gold Mlalag Company.
Photo by San ford.
Siint'"-
Running The Slag— National Smelter.
Photo by Santord.
ceived a jolly from the skulking savages. George \V. Jones fell dead with a bullet through his brain. John Urquhart fell with five mortal wounds, Wni. Livermore was seriously wounded in the arm. while Samuel Scott remained unharmed, although the bullet which killed Jones lodged in his coat. Livermore and Scott immediately left the wagon and made a run for the Hills about four hundred yards distant, the Indians firing upon them until they reached cover, where they stood the Indians off until dark. Under the cover of darkness they took a circuitous route for Rapid City, reaching home about lo p. m.
This day, so full of tragedy, proved a sad one for the future of Rapid City. Volin's train, which had passed unconcious of tlie Indian ambush, spent the night at Rapid, and in the morning a posse of men with one of his wagi'u,'; went out to secure the bodies of the men killed the previous day. During their absence the remainder of the party, with the terrified citizens of the town, that had grown since the spring stampede to the number of two hundred, worked themselves into a frenzy of excitement, which the bringing in of the mutilated bodies of the four murdered men developed into a panic. The bodies were hastily laid beside a cabin, the wagon reloaded and the train started with feverish haste on its way to Pierre, accompanied by nearly the entire population of the town, leaving eighteen men and one woman, Mrs, Reddy Johnson, wife of one of the men who had been chased from a ranch by the Indians the previous day.
This was, however, the last fatal attack of the Indians, although several attempts were made later to run off stock.
The last raid made upon Black Hills settlers by the Indians was in February, 1878. when a small attacked a train on the Sidney road seven miles south of Rapid City, in which one of the teamsters of the train was wounded.
The founders of this historic town showed their enterprise and foresight by immediately laying out a route from Rapid to Fort Pierre, and piloting in over that route the first trains of the season, and the traffic thus directed in the beginning ever after followed that trail and made Rapid City the first station and the Gate City to the Black Hills. By June regular transportation trains were hauling passengers and goods over this route from Fort Pierre to Deadwood and other settlements. The
'%
Tapping The Matte— National Smelter.
Photo by SanfonJ.
:r4f'*'Efi' all
THE LATHROP'ReeVES MERCANTILE COMPANY'S DEPARTMENT STORE. Phottn:bT Collini.
n
If
Pennington County Bank.
PboU> by Santord.
RAPID CITY— CeniiaurJ.
settlers of Rapid City found a ready market for their hay crop at the exorbitant price of one hundred dollars per ton, and in other traffic and hotel trade did a profitable business.
John R. Brennan opened the first hotel for the entertainment of travelers in Rapid City in his log cabin twelve by fourteen feet square, in the spring of 1876, which was followed the next year by the Exchange Hotel, buili by Mr. Holcumbe, tlie Rapid City agent for the Northwestern Transpor- -tation Company, carrying passengers from Fort Pierre, and the American House, a two-storied log structure on the ground now occupied by the Pennington County Bank, as the headquarters for the Sidney Stage Line. The International Hotel was also started on its present site tlie same year, which is the only pioneer hotel still in existence.
The year 1877 saw a marked decrease in Indian hostilities and the high tide of emigration. The ratifying of the Sioux treaty the previous year by Congress and its approval by the president February 28, 1877, created a national interest in the Black Hills, and the sixteen hundred pounds of gold-dust shipped out of tlie Hills the previous fall under an armed guard of twenty men had established the great wealth of the Black Hills gold mines. Ranching was pursued as industriously as marauding Indians would permit. One hundred thousand people passed through Rapid City going in and out of the Hills, and by its second birthday the town boasted a permanent population of five hundred people.
Miss Vena Le Gro has the honor of being botJi the first school teacher and the first bride in Rapid City. She opened a school in the spring of '77, which she taught during the summer, and in November was married to William F. Steele, one of the founders of the city, by District Judge Granville G. Bennett. Mr. Steele died in i8gi. Mrs. Steele still resides in Rapid.
The newspaper followed the school and wedding and January 5, 1878, Joseph B. Gossage, pioneer editor of Rapid City, started the Rapid City Journal, which is to-day the leading newspaper of the town, and has become one of the best daily newspapers in the Black Hills.
The horse stealing begun by the Indians in the spring of '76 aroused retaliation in the frontiersmen and stealing horses from the Indians became one of the chief aims of daring characters of the foothills. A taste of the profits of the enterprise in this country of exorbitant prices and consequent
Q. 8. Congdon Hardware Company.
General Hardware, Stoves and Ranges. Fine China Crockery, Carriages. Wagons
and Farm Implements, Furnaces, Steam Heating and Plumbing.
Manufacturer of One harness and saddles.
Main Floor Of Department Store Of John C.
Photo by BKDloid.
RAPID CITY— ConhnifrJ.
strenuous need of filthy lucre, created an abnormal appetite for the exciting business, and ere long the raids were not confined to the Indian camp, but were practiced wherever opportunity afforded. The coming into the country of multitudes with fortunes in their pockets and going out of gold-dust and bullion proved a tempting bait to these lawless characters, and on the night of March 25, 1877. exciting news of a bold attempt at stage robbery, in which the driver had been killed, created consternation in the Hills. The Custer stage coach, when within a couple of miles of Deadwood, about a hundred yards above the place where the Pluma depot now stands, at 1 1 o'clock at night overtook three men walking in the road, two side by side, and one a little ahead. As the coach overtook the two men they separated, each stepping to his side of tlie road. As the coach reached them one of the robbers thrust his gun into the donr and fired through the coach. The man in the road ahead immediately wheeled and fired a charge of buckshot at the driver, killing him instantly, and he fell headlong from his seat. The two passengers sitting by his side, supposing he had jumped, also jumped to the ground. The horses taking fright, started to run. One of the passengers had seized the gun the robber had fired into the coach and a lively tussle ensued, which, with the running of the horses. pulled the passenger out of the coach. The robbers made good their escape without any loot, and the three passengers left behind started after the coach. After running about half a mile the lines became tangled in a wheel of the coach, turning the lead horses around, stopping them. After this hold-ups became common before the season was out were almost a daily occurrence. Common law meted out speedy punishment for these lawless acts, and Hangman's Hill at Rapid City stands as a monument of the swift justice that soon cleared the country of stage robbery and horse stealing.
The town continued to prosper and in November, 1880, Messrs. Lake and Halley opened a bank, which did a prosperous business, and in 1883 built the first brick block erected in the town. The next year the bank was merged into the First National Bank of Rapid City, of which James Halley is now president.
The town was incorporated October 11, 1882. The same year was marked by the erection of a commodious school building, and for the next five years the growth of the Gate City was equal to the highest expectations of its founders. The starting of the Fremont, Elkhom & Missouri Valley
The Harney Hotel.
y Qalegle it JohnaDD,
The Thomas Sweeney Hardware Company.
y Quisgle A Johnaan.
EBt&bllBhed by Thomas Sweeoey In 1S78, Incorporated 1891. Prom a small retail
Hardware this business has ktowh Into a mammoth Department Store
covering a floor space of 41,000 square feet
The Thomas Sweeney Hardware Company.
by & Johr
Nearly everytblDg In merchandlee la sold b; the Thomas Sweeney Hardware Company,
making It one of the largest outBtting e stab 11 ah men te for cattlemen
and ranchmen In the Black Hills.
RAPID CITY —ConliauiJ.
Railroad into the Hills in 1885. with its route through Rapid City, created the confidence and en thusiasm necessary for a boom, and plans for development were laid on a large scale.
One of the first modern improvements projected by the ambitions city was the erection of an ample reservoir and water system conducting water from one of the several magnificent springs located above the city. Plans were immediately made and contracts let for the speedy completion of the work. A large proportion of the piping was hauled from Buffalo Gap before the completion of the railroad to Rapid City. The original cost, together with improvements and extensions, represent an outlay by the city of $81,000, and provides the most perfect water system, together with the purest water in the Black Hills.
In 1885 the State School of Mines was located at Rapid City, and an appropnatiuii of $Jo,ooo made for its erection. Two years later, in 1887, an additional $23,000 was appropriated. With this $33,000 two large brick buildings were erected and equipped for imparting technical knowledge of mining, metallurgy and engineering. To these are added literature, languages and a commercial course, with practical field work during the summer. An appropriation of $20,000 in 1901 has added a third building, and with its faculty of seven able instructors the school is well equipped for its special work, and is destined to become one of the best schools of its kind in the country.
.The only fire brick in the Black Hills is manufactured in Rapid City by the Marshall Brick Company. This large plant is fully equipped for the manufacture of all kinds, including plain building, paving, tiling and fire brick of all forms and sizes, under the expert supervision of Mr. Marshall, one of the most experienced brick makers in the country.
The largest flouring mill is located at Rapid City, run by the water power of Rapid river, producing 150 barrels of flour per day.
An interesting government institution is located here, the Indian School, which, under the wise and efficient management of Prof. Davis and his capable wife, is doing a noble work in civilizing the savage Sioux. The school was erected at a cost of $45,000, intended to accommodate eighty pupils, but soon exceeded that number and now has over a hundred. A new building is now in the course of erection which will relieve the present crowded conditon of the school and greatly increase its
Marshall Brick Company'S Yard.
Photo by San ford.
Tbe beet equipped brick plant In tbe Black Hills, manufacturing all kIndB of brick of
tbe lineet quality, tncludlng plain building, paving, and all
forms and sizes ot fire brick.
The Jester House,
This a very attractlTe, homelike hotel, located one block from the F. B. ft M. e proprietor, has the pleasant faculty of anticipating guests, and making himself a popular landlord.
RAPID CITY— Oifilifiuft,.
efficiency. With twelve able instructors, the young Indians are taught not only to speak, read and write the English language and the common school branches, but are given manual training.
An enterprise of which the city is justly proud is the modern smelter recently erected by the National Smelting Company of Boston, designed and built under the personal supervision of Prof. Theodore Knutzen, and is without doubt the most complete and up-to-date smelting plant in the Black Hills. Twenty thousand cubic yards of earth and stone were removed in the excavation for the foundations. A retaining wall seven feet thick, two himdred feet long and from twenty to thirty feet in height was built. Tiie main building erected, two hundred feet long, one hundred and fifty feet wide and seventy-five feet high, is of galvanized steel. For the purpose of saving the fine particles of ore, and condo-nsing the fumes carried from the furnace, a dust chamber zig-zags up the hill four hundred and fifty feet, where a stone foundation twenty-five feet high is built for the steel stack, which rises one hundred and fifty feet above the foundation, and is nine feet in diameter at the top.
At a cost of $15,000 the Fremont, Elkiiorn & Misosuri Valley Railroad has built a spur track to the plant, where, over a trestle seventy-five feet high and two hundred feet long, the ore is carried to the top of the building and dumped into ore bins, where it is fed by chutes into charging barrows on the feed floor below. From the chutes the barrow is pushed over a steel floor to the charging scales near the furnaces. The weighing scales have eight beams, thus permitting the coke, fluxes and ores to be weighed separately, avoiding any change of weights. The barrow, mounted on a truck of four wheels, is pustied about ten feet and stopped directly over the mouth of the furnace. The lever opens a tra|) door in the bottom of the car and the contents fed into the furnace.
The slag from this smelter is granulated by running into a small stream of water, and carried by a spout into cars of the Elkhorn Railroad, to be used by them as ballast.
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Interior W. H. Jones' Bakery And Grocery.
QUIGOLE AND JOHNSON'S PHCTOQRAPHIC STUDrO. tbem for up-to-date photographic work, both in portralta and eleva.
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MINERAL CABINET— STATE SCHOOL OF MINES. flue collection ot geological specimens, particularly from Bad Landa and Black HUla.
Indian School.
Photo by SanCord.
Hmbih
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Indian School.
Pholo by Sanford.
INDIAN CAMP AT FOOT OF BATTLE MOUNTArN.
PLANrNQ MILLS OF THE Manufai'turns aod wholesale dealers Id
Price And Baker Company.
Lumber, Rapid Clly anrt Black Hawk, So. Dak.
Sturgis.
When the Custer exploring party started on their return trip to Fort Abraham Lincoln in the summer of 1874 they left the Hills by the way of Bear Butte, and the Gordon party, which entered the Hills in December of the same year, made that conspicuous landmark its objective point in order to strike General Custer's outgoing trail and follow it back to French Creek, where gold had first been discovered, and during all the days of overland travel it was the objective point of all Black Hills travelers from the east. The locating of Fort Meade at its base on one of the most ideal sites for drill and training of cavalry troops, in the early days when the presence of United States troops was necessary for protection from the Indians, established the town of Sturgis, which has since become the county seat of Meade county.
A visit to Fort Meade will well repay the Black Hills tourist who is in any way interested in our nation's training of its cavalrymen. In a circle surrounding a well kept parade ground of magnificent proportions, skirted by a beautifully shaded macadamized driveway, are located a modernly equipped hospital, the tidy cottages of the officers' quarters, club house, quartermaster, three large stone buildings recently erected for the government by Mullen and Munn of Deadwood, completely furnished with all modern improvements for permanent barracks and the temporary barracks of the various companies of cavalry, while in the background are situated the long rows of stables for the horses.
The visitor is received with all the courtesy of "Uncle Sam" to his guests, and a good insight may be obtained of the life of those who are being trained to fight our nation's battles.
The drive between Sturgis and Fort Meade is a beautiful one through the historic Bear Butte Pass, over which the long trains of freight from Fort Pierre to Deadwood passed in the early days, and one can in imagination hear the echo of the lowing cattle and the crack of the driver's whip, and it would not be difficult to conjecture what a trip over the road would mean was there danger of skulking, well armed savages appearing on the bluffs above. But those exciting days are past, to be lived no more except in memory and imagination, but the occasional passing of a troop of cavalry,
FORT MEADE. ' Is an Moal site for b
He Scollard.
i the leading hotel
with their well groomed appearance and attractive uniforms, g;ives added iife and color to the already beautiful canon.
The city of Sturgis is graced with many modem buildings. Their court bouse is an attractive one, situated, together with St. Martha's parochial school, on a plateau overlooking the town. A fine stone building has during the past year been added to the school, which is the only school of its kind in the Black Hills. Like all the towns of this progressive country Sturgis has cause to be justly proud of its public school building, an artistic structure of the sandstone so abundant in the foothills.
Meade county has its share in the cattle business of the foothills in vast ranges of the nutricious buffalo grass, and also a goodlv portion of the exceedingly fertile agricultural lands, whenever there is sufficient moisture for cultivation. The wealth of the county may be approximated by ihc deposits of over a quarter of a million dollars in the Meade County Bank, as well as in the prosperous, well stocked business houses.
The rolling mill of Mr. Geo. F. Early finds constant nccupatiim in grinding the product of the famous hard wheat grown so abundantiv in the foothills.
STURGIS ROLLER MILL. Manufacturer or UEgb grade flour. The bard wheat taking a at the Cbicaso Expoaltion was raised within one mile of the Sturgla Mills.
Belle Fourche.
Belle Fourche stands as the representative of the cattle business in the Black Hills. While all the towns of the foothills enjoy their share of the profitable business. Belle Fourche exists almost solely by it and is by far the greatest shipping point.
The town is beautifully located on the Belle Fourche river, about forty miles from Deadwood.
When the Fremont, Elkhorn & Missouri Valley Railroad built into the Black Hills, and ran a spur from Whitewood thirty miles out into what would appear to a tenderfoot to be a part of the "Great American Desert, " it demonstrated the keen, wide-awake foresight of its managjenienl, resulting in the shipment of 1,300 carloads of cattle the first season.
The building of a at the terminus of so important a branch of railroad was of course necessary, which resulted in the platting of Belle Fourche in June, 1891, by the Pioneer Townsite Company. It is to-day a town of 500 inhabitants enjoying a profilahle trade with the cattlemen and ranchmen located over the plains between there and the North Dakota line.
A conservative estimate of the shipment of cattle from the Black Hills during the present season places the amount at not less than 5.000 carloads, or 100.000 cattle, at an average value of $40 head, making the net proceeds of the business not less than $4,000,000. There are left on the range to-day probably a quarter of a million cattle that will be shipped in the next two seasons. About 75.000 head are brought up from Texas and the Southwest during the year and placed on the ranges to grow and nmltiply.
The raising of sheep, which prevails so largely in the western foothills of Wyoming, is rapidly entering the eastern foothills and has already reached important proportions, bidding fair to rival the cattle business in
The raisuig of horses is as yet a minor matter," being confined mostly to common stock and broncos for cowboy use in riding after the cattle, for which they are by nature and training admirably fitted, being tough, agile and intelligent, seeming to possess a natural instinct for the herding of cattle, which demands 3 great deal of riding and requires a large number of horses. The riding be- £ins m the spring with the round-up of the stock that has been allowed to roam at will over the ran
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Butte County Bank. Belle Fourche, 8. D.
Organlied 1S91. Jobn Clay, Jr., Pres.; J. T. Crats, Vice-Pres.; A. H. Marble, Cashier.
9fr. Marble represents tbe John Clay, Jr.. Company's Cattle Business.
Hardware Store Of Arthur 3. Gay.
Mr. Oay built and owned tht floral bIi
and Agricultural BubIdchs.
re In the town and now had the leading Hardw Anything a ranchman may need to equip in be found at thia store.
Belle Fourche—
and pick a living as best they can, for cattle on these ranges seldom get either shelter or artificial food. The various owners combine and cover a certain district, rounding up all the cattle in a bunch, then "cutting out" each man's cattle, branding the calves and driving the various herds to their special range, where it is guarded during the summer by a relay of cowboys and the salable ones driven to market in the fall. It is estimated that there are on the ranges of the Black Hills $375,000 worth of horses, some of them fine thoroughbred stock.
Butte county is the largest in the state, containing 2,340 square miles, and while it is at present sparsely settled, it is very rich in cattle and has golden pros|)ects for the future, as it lies in the artesian district and will no doubt in the near future become one of the gardens of the country, for the soil is peculiarly rich and productive with artificial watering, and with the permanent natural flow of an artesian well every homestead may become safely and permanently productive, and the acres that now afford a small crop of buffalo grass, recpiiring a quarter section to feed a few cattle, will become farm land of the highest grade, especially for fruit and wheat.
The original county seat was at Minnesula. situated on the Belle Fourche river, a couple of miles from the present site of Belle Fourche, platted in 1882. and for ten years enjoyed the distinction of being the county seat and metropolis of the county. But not being on the line of survey for the new railroad, the building of the road proved almost a death blow, and gave the county seat to its young rival in 1894. The young town received the scourge of fire in 1895, which proved, as it always does to a vigorous, progressive place, "a blessing in disguise," and gave substantial business blocks of stone and brick in place of the temporary, hastily built shacks of pioneer days. One building that tells of the culture and refinement of the town and that any town of 500 people might Ix; justly proud, is their fine stone public school building. Both their fine buildings and the high grade of their school is due in a great measure to the untiring personal efforts of Mr. Frank R. Cock, the president of their school board, aided by an appreciative public.
The Belle Fourche water works is worthy of special mention. Excellent drinking water is one of the blessings for which every town in the Black Hills has to be thankful, there being an abundance of springs of the purest water throughout the Hills, Belle Fourche alone being too £Br out '
Public School Building.
QROCERY STORE OF ARNOLD BROS. AND GLASSrE.
The Wide-Awake Grocery Is the pioneer store of the town, located here May, 1S91, by
Arnold Brothers and GlaBsle. They make a specialty of outflttlng the
cattlemen of the vast cattle ranges.
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Vt 'ViWsKBBSBf TUB
-A It'
"'Srl-,il
Interior Of Frank R :
In addition to supplying both uud uiuli , ..
they make a specialty of carina fur llic cUj the best of everything.
Kocery.
.iiijacent Immense ranges, trade, carrying
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BELLE FOURCHE— Cm/wm-.
share the f;enc-rat Messing, hut the lack of springs is supplied by an artesian well 525 feet deqi, ifxj.fxx) gallons daily, and with sufficient force to raise the water into a tank lOO feet alxjvc the town,
I-'xcelleiit coal were discovered at Hay creek, sixteen miles west of Belle Fourche, and a railroad built to connect with the Fremont, Elkhom & Missouri Valley Railroad, called the Wyoming Hi Missouri Kiver Railroad, which runs a daily train to Belle Fourche.
During (In-tattle shipping season the town presents a lively appearance, and is in reality a very lively iilart. This not, however, bring visions of lawless, rioting cowboys, riding furiously through the streets firing a revolver on Ixtth sides of their broncos at once into the ground and into the air, ro strike terror to the hearts of the inhabitants, for such cowboy jokes were worn out long ago, and ihr cnwlmy is in reality a very warm-hearted, generous, open-handed fellow, law-abiding and <-oiirleons in his way, and good fcllfiwship prevails among tlieni to a degree seldom met in men whose assoctalions are more varied and whose attachments are consequently not so deeply rooted. A visit lo a round-uj). or to a cattle ranch employing a number of men, will dispel any opinion of [Kictir rowdyism held of lliis much misrepresented class iif men. Hospitality is one of their principal traits, and such ontcrlaminent as their primitive ([uarters provide is cordially extended to the visitor. When the lonk sings out, "(Inick up," everylxidy is ex()ected, without further invitation, to take his plalc, knife. fork .and s|>ooii and it at the camp stove for his share of the wholesome, well- ((Miked foud. and if the guest lias maile himself social without any show of sentimentality, which Ik olitrnxiiais lo the cowlioy soul, he is sure of* an extra fine cut of meat and the best of everything. When llic rnwhoy liiniself becomes visitor be naturally expects the same cordial reception, when trtvited with the cordiality his heart naturally yearns for after a ye*r of isolation with his few daily comiwnions, no more responsive character can be found. He loves his bronco dcIlfflitH ill showing off its good qualities, and many exhibitions of fine riding may be con- .lastly nccii on the streets during cattle shipping time.
BUTTE COUNTV JAIU Hade of tbe beautltul red aandstone from the Belle Fourche quarry.
Store Of Th08. H. Qay.
Tbos. H. Qay began buBlneea at the toundlog of tbe town In ISSl, has advanced with
thB owtb of tbe town and bas the leading business. Sucb growth
8bow8 bis abllltr to grasp tbe people's wants.
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i'
Interior Of Lancaster'S Store.
en in buslnees at Belle Fourche tar a number of years and has mplete stock of dry goods.
Belle Pourche—
H very I II harvest
in tlic to rca
Diiriiifi tillidy works is reaiH'tl
rilC SCTIK- ,
s a lively for till- II into llif iidi as is iHstaiK-c u '1i Itclkof
months this season lasts the nights' rest of the business man is short.
early iind late, the outfits stock up abundantly for the year to come and a financial
thai assures for another year at least.
at the i-altlc jkitis two miles out of town, where several trains are daily loaded with anil exciliiif; one. The ample pens filled with frightened, bellowing cattle, that are irst time corralcd, the driving in by the noisy cowboys of other herds as the pens are wailing (rain: the brilliant dash after a fleeing steer, giving exhibitions of artistic
sehloni (lujilicatcd on the track, with a background of waiting herds, rounded up ailiiij,' llicir turn, is one not soon to be forgotten by the tourist fortunate enough I'ourclie ilurinj; the cattle shipping season, and for the first time witness the
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Cattle Range.
i guarter ol a iqIIUoti cattle are on Ihe ranges adjacent to the Black Hills, living the
year rouDd without shelter or artificial feeding.
A Hero Of Hereford Cattle.
Od the Bene Fourche River. Much care Is taken by the stockmen In Improving the
rade of the cattle on the range-
HORSES OF A ROUNO-UP OUTFIT. The taorses of tbe cowboys are well trained, standing without tying when the Ila%
Deadwood.
the most famous city of the Black Hills, has but just passed the first quarter of a century of its existence, but in the short twenty-five years since its first birthday it has carved for itself a place in history and a name among the prosperous cities of a wealthy nation.
In the fall of 1875 prospectors began searching for placer gold in the gulches of the northern Hills, having scattered north from Custer. Gold was found in small quantities in Whitewood gulch, below the present site of the city of Dead wood, and in the beginning of 1876 a town was organized at the lower extremity of the city as it now stands, called Elizabethtown, in honor of the first white
Ww '
woman to enter the field. History was made fast in those days and almost simultaneously with the organizing of Fllizabethtown rumors that rich finds in Deadwood gulch, that entered Whitewood gulch about a mile above, had been made about Christmas time, began to awaken an intense excitement in the lively mining camp. The excitement increased as the remarkable riches of the wonderful Deadwood gulch became more apparent, quickly extending to the southern Hills, causing the greatest stampede toward the new Eldorado ever seen in mining history, reducing the town of Custer from 7,000 to 14 inhabitants in three weeks, and like a magnet drawing nearly the entire population of the Hills to the common center, establishing the city of Deadwood and making it the commercial center of the Black Hills.
The great riches of the new find may best be illustrated by the product of the first claim of 300 feet taken below the original discovery, owned by Wheeler Brothers and worked entirely out by them the first summer. The last of August they left the Hills with 1,600 pounds of gold-dust, valued at about $300,000, one-third of which was su])posed to have come from their claim. This valuable cargo was transjiorted out of the Hills under an escort of twenty armed men, and made no small sensation en route.
The claims were quickly located for a distance of 16,800 feet up the gulch, as far as gold was found in paying quantities. The first discovery was made 7,800 feet above the present location of
Deadwood, 8. D.
Sbowlng White Rocke, cemetery and emoV. Ql Vti ft ,VMitat-
Is
Rossiter Cyanide Plant.
ihe First National and the American National Banks, the principal business corner of Deadwood, by a ni;ni by the name of Gay, that part of the city still being called Gayville. Gold in paying quantities ivas fund for y.ooo feet farther up the gulch, making in all fifty-six claims, reaching a little more than three miles from the mouth of the gulch.
Placer mining in the vicinity was by no means confined to Deadwood gulch, Whitewood gulch, above the mouth of Deadwood gulch, proving equally rich, and with Gold Run up to the present site of Lead, provided over sixty paying claims, while Blacktail. Bobtail. Sheeptail and other adjacent gulches provided thirty-five more.
Twelve hundred miners worked fnr the fortunate owners of these claims in the vicinity of Deadwood at $5 per <iay during the tirsl summer of its existence, and laid a golden foundation for the commercial enterprise that lias characterized the city for a quarter of a century. Nearly as many more miners were ojwrating in the neighboring gidches that proved almost as rich. Bear gidch. commonly known in that dav as "Nigger Hill," Potato gulch. Iron creek. Sand creek and several others yielding their share of the gctlden harvest. Iron creek yielding the largest nugget yet foimd in the Hills, vahieil at about $435.
It is estimated that no less than 5,000 men were engaged in placer mining in the Hills during the season of 1K76, exclusive of prospectors, who had already discovered the famous Honiestake quart/ lode, wliicli has demonstrated to the world that the wealth of the Black Hills was not confined to its rich placer mines, and yet awaits the attention of capital to develop and operate the more expensive but enduring tjuartz mines.
'I'lic city of Deadwood, named after the gulch that made it famous, receiving its name from the tangle of dead and fallen timljer filling the gulch, was organized April 26, 1876. The town of tents and log cabins, that in one short season numbered 5,000 souls, soon began to develop a permanent character. The town had not reached its third birthday when preparations were made to build brick business blocks, and the work went rapidly on. Few cities can show as much development in the building line in twenty-five years as Deadwood, and when the high price of but
Masonic Temple.
.£Jll.
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iriifci
H
i.'?iS.S -
Interior Zollner Brothers Co.'S Store.
P 'u3,j
Interior Clothing Department Zollner Bros.' Store.
DEADWOOD— Cuntinufd.
considered it is indeed remarkable. At present there is under erection a magnificent hotel, which will add greatly to tlie comfort of tourists, as Deadwood is not only the commercial center but also the railroad center from which all points by rail can be easily reached. From here daily trips can be taken to several points of interest. Trains run every few minutes to Lead at a cost of 25 cents for the round trip, where the great Homestake mine may be visited, their 900 stamps out nearly $15,000 in gold daily, over $4,000,000 annually. A trip to Lead over the "Scenic Wonder Line" of the Fremont, Elkborn & Missouri Valley Railroad is one of the most enjoyable in the Hills, rivaling the .scenery of the .\lps in picturesqueness. A trip, also over their line, on an ore train to Bald Mountain ami the town of Terry, at the foot nf Terry peak, the highest point in the northern Hills, should also he taken, a permit for which can probably be obtained by applying for it at the offices of the company. .-\notlier day siiould be in a trip down Spearfish canon, the grandest canon of the Hills, the train leaving in the morning and reaching Spearfish for dinner, returning in the evening, making a day of sight-seeing long to be remembered, and everyone also should visit Crystal Cave and view the wonders and beauties of nature underground, for this two-.storied country has a basement more than a king's ])place.
Deadwood has alsii been the pioneer city in chemical reduction and treatment for extracting the gold from the rich but refractory ore of the great Hahl Mountain district, and her exjieriments and ex|)erience has benefited the lilac'.; Hills, reducing the cost of treatment and making valuable great (piantities of low grail refractory ore that lornierly was worthless because the extracting cost was than llic produced, onlv the rich refractory ore that could be iirofitably shipped to Omaha or Denver being available. I'"x])eriments for the reduction of these ores was begun in 1887 by Dr. b'rauklin K. fariienter. the first titan of the Scliool of Mines at Rapid City, whose public spirit and ]>riigressive ideas led him In believe that his work was iiroader than the mere teaching of mining and metallurgy in tbe scIujoI, and that the equipment of the metallurgical department should be used in experimenting with questions that puzzled the metallurgists of the Black Hills, and tbe low refractory ores so abundant in the Hills was certainty such a question. Finding that all Ai
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Main Floor— Department Store Of John C. Haines (Inc.)
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PIANO ROOMS OF E. C. HAWLEY. For twelve years ilie only regular piano ami organ dealer, covering Ibe whole Black HilU. Handles also the "Angelus OrcheBtral" piano player. Ihe 1 oldeBt. Kreatest and beat of them &U.
J
D E A D W OOD— Continued.
cal processes then known required the roasting of the ore. the doctor concluded they might as well be smelted, but neither lead nor copper ore was then found in the Hills in sufficient quantities to smelt the gold ore. He began a series of experiments in 1889 with the materia! available, and after much labor and many discouragements, aided by the professors of metallurgy and chemistry at the School of Mines and Professor Theodor Knutzen. designer and constructor of the National Smelter at Rapid City, he perfected a process called matte smelting, using the limestone, so abundant in the Hills, to reduce the melted ore to a slag, and inin pyrites to pnxluce a matte for collecting the gold and other metals.
Several prominent citizens of Deadwood took an interest in these ami with Messrs. \V. H. and Joseph Swift of WiJjjiington, Delaware, constructed an experimental smelter on VVhitewotid gulch. Iwlow tlie town. The experimental runs proving entirely successful, the Deadwood and Delaware Smelting Company was formed and a custom plant built, equipped with the best machinery and started in July, 1891, with Dr. Carjienter as superintendent. This smelter has run continuously up to the present time with the exception of a few months during the panic of 1893. and a few weeks after the fire of March 10, 1898. when the building over the furnaces was entirely destroyed, but temijorary platforms were built around the furnaces, they were set to work again and a steel structure erected over them.
alio built the first chlorination plant and the first cyanide plant in the Black Hills. The chlorination process has. however, been entirely supplanted by the cyanide process, which is a simpler process, not requiring roasting, an important item where fuel is expensive. The chlorination mill has been turned into a mill by the Horseshoe Gold Mining Company, and six large cyanide mills are now in operation at Deadwood, with two others building and several others operating in the neighboring gulches.
The Elgin Creamery.
Tbis Creamery manufactures 15,000 pounds of butter daily, from cream shipped In
sealed cans from the dairy farms of Nebraska. It furnishes fresh. dut b'A.v.'
for the Black Hills that consumes t.b% TtU.T tivii-
Smith Block.
Crystal Cave.
The pack trains tliat left tlie Fort Pierre freigiu line at Postville. at t!ie nioiitli of Elk creek, for Galena, one of tlie oldest mining camps in the Black Hills, following the trail up Elk creek canon. an open-mouthed cave lined with crystals, which was known to the early settlers as Crystal Cave, and attracted considerable attention, but being limited to a single room has been lost sight of by the siglit-seeing public, ils glory being entirely dimmed by the many rooms and the forty miles of crystaled passageways in its more recently discovered namesake.
The history of this underground wonderland begins in 1888, when "Three- Fingereil Jim," a pioneer hunter and pros|)eclor. luuuing mountain lions in the canon about a mile aliove the nld cave, concluded that the lions were hiding in cavities in the side of the cliff, and interesting Mr. A. C. McBride, the present owner of the cave, and his the three men liegan a reconnoissance of the face of the precipice that rises almost perimlicularly from the bed of the little mountain stream flowing through one of the most picturesque canons in the Hlack Hills. Searching the cliff for the expected den of the lions, and enjoying the pastime of watching houlders dash to the valley they discovered the cavity that proved to be the mouth of one of the mo.st remarkable caves in the world.
Two years later Mr. A. C. McBride ojiened its beautiful subterranean caverns to the public. Its wonders nui.'t lie seen to be comprehended. The interior is entirely crystallized, whichin the light sparkles like diamonds. ])roducing an effect of surpass.sing brilliancy, and to travel as long as one desires in this gorgeous di.'play equalled by no crystal in the world, with endless variety of fantastic forms and ever-changing scenery is to receive an impressiim of the wealth of nature's resources seldom seen above ground. Not only do the ever-present crystals produce dazzling effects of superlative but wonderful stalactite and stalagmite formations with rivers and other forms of onyx mingle with the crystals and add their share to the variety of beauty and splendor.
The attractions are not all below ground in this romantic place, for no more ru I
beautiful scenery is to be found in the Hills, and no more desirable place for a summer vat '
k
'
Elk Creek Canon At Crystal Cave.
m -J
/
m'
ABODE OF THE FAIRIES. Ooe of the beRutltul views in Crystal Cave, showing Toner of Bable, i agmite, and an Invested forest of atalactltes.
I enormous atal-
CRYSTAL QAVE— Continued.
be found than in the hospitable rustic home hotel with this genial host and hostess, surrounded by tlie wild and beautiful in nature.
The original of the cave being at an inaccessible place in the side of the precipice, a tunnel has been dug from near the hotel, intersecting the cave passage 300 feet from the entrance. Passing through this tunnel we enter the crystallized passage of the cave and begin to see the wonders of nature underground. As the cave cannot all be seen in one trip, the visitor may take his choice of several routes, the Lake route, the Diamond Fields and the Klondike being the most traveled ones. The first room of importance is 100 feet long by 20 feet wide, called Seal Rocks, from a rock the form of a seal, perched on an eminence. Then through Poverty Flats, a room 400 feet long by 50 wide, without a support the entire length of the room, but in ages past the crystals fell to the floor, hence its name. A drop of 30 feet down Bunker Hill brings us to Pyramid room, feet, where we see the first big box work, covered with crystals. Two hundred feet farther we enter Notre Dame and near by Cochran's Gallery, both gorgeously decorated with crystallized box work. On 300 feet brings us to G. A. R. nail, where the form of an eagle with outstretched wings guards the place. Down Rip Van Winkle's Stairway, a rocky descent of 100 feet, brings us to Crystal Fountain, where a delightful surprise greets us in a delightfully cool drink of the purest water. Three hundred feet beyond we come to Dripstone Paradise, where a unique formation of dripstone is seen, of onyx formation, resembling an enormous bunch of crackerjack. And so we may go on from one wonder to another as long as strength permits, and we realize when tired nature demands a return to the hotel that the half has not only not been told, but has not been seen.
Crystalized Walls.
Natural History Specimens.
Black Hllla Natural History and Curio EntablUbmeiit. Wtaoleeale and Retail Indian
RellcB, BaeketB. Elk Teeth, Mlnerala, Fossils, Arrow Heads, Photos, Etc.
Send 5c for price catalogue, of 100.000 specimens.
L. W. StUwell, Deadwood, 3. D.
mm
riF?51f'r-T'iiTTr —
Lead.
Gold mining began in the Black Hills, as it usually does, with placer mining — the washing from the gravel of the gold that has been caught in nature's sluices, the creek beds, from the disintegration of the gold-bearing rock, which has been washed down the valley, leaving the heavy precious metal in its wake. Its presence indicates the existence of rich bodies of ore in the hillsides up the stream, and it seems to be not only nature's kind invitation to search deeper for the precious metal, but also her wise provision for the supply of the gold-seeker until he can prepare for mining the deeper and more permanent supply of the much coveted metal, for the pioneer gold-seeker, with his pick, and shovel, is not equipped to extract the gold from the flinty quartz.
The gold pan is exclusively a prospector's utensil, as its use is too slow for actual mining, and as soon as gold is discovered in (|uantity the miner immediately constructs a sluice box if there is sufficient running water, and a cradle if water is scarce. The latter consists of a sloping canvas bottomed Ixx on rockers, usually with an upper and lower compartment. The upper part is filled with gravel, water poured in and the cradle rocked until the gravel is washed out and the gold caught in the meshes or behind slats across the for that purpose.
A sluice is a long through which a stream of water is made to flow, with slats nailed across, or a false bottom filled with auger holes, for the gold to catch in. The gravel is shoveled into the Ixx and the vStream washes cuit the gravel, leaving the heavier gold caught behind the slats or in the auger holes.
The first year of mining was naturally defined to searching for placer gold in the streams and gulches, that returned a rich reward to the thousands who washed the gravel beds for nuggets and dust: but with a miner on every 300 feet of available stream, the supply must naturally soon be exhausted.
Early in the year of 1876 experienced prospectors began the search for quartz mines, that resulted in finding the lead that has become famous r.s the greatest gold mine in the world, and around which has grown up the largest and richest city in the Black Hills.
LEAD CITY, 8. D. Tbe borne of the Homestake mine, the greatest gold mine In the world, elevation one mile above the sea. A city of 10,000 Inhabltanta, situated three mllee from Dead wood.
Main Street, Lead, S. D.
The great mine now operated by the Homestake Mining Company was discovered and located as several claims and purcliased by the company as it grew in power and wealth. The first purchase was the Homestake mine, discovered in April, 1876, and located by Fred and Moses Manuel, who also later located the Dead wood -Terry and Old Abe mines and took as partners Alexander Engh and Henry Harney. Soon afterward the Highland was discovered by M. Cavanaugh and the Golden Star by "Smoky" Jones.
During the followins" sunnner, while placer mining was at its height, the owners of these claims built an araster, which demonstrated the wealth of their find and inspired the building of a ' couple of small stamp mills before the coming spring.
The late Hon. George Hearst, James B. Haggin, the mining king of Califoniia, and his illustrious partner, the late Lloyd Tevis. became interested in the Black Hills, and after sending a trusted agent to investigate the nminrs that had reached beyond the Rockies, purchased their share in the Homestake mine from the Manuel brothers and Alexander' Engh for about $85,000. Later they bought the remaining portion of the mine for $55,000. To this purchase was added the Golden Star mine about the close of the year, the Highland and Old Abe the following year, a little later the Dead wood -Terry and De Smet mines on the other side of the divide in Terraville and Central, with other adjoining claims, covering the largest vein of gold yet discovered in the Black Hills, which, with all the water available, will require another century to work out. as. .it a depth of only 1,200 feet, all the ore that can be milled in thirty-five years is now in sight.
With profound faith in their holdings, these enterprising men lost no time in starting an eighty-stamp mill on its vay to the Hills, sending it by rail to Cheyenne, Wyo., and contracting with Cuthhertson and Young, who are still residents of Deadwood. for its transportation to the new gold fields for 6 cents per or $32,000 for the entire mill. This material reached the mine the next spring and the mill wa,' started July i, one year from the beginning of operations.
Having secured all the territory necessary for permanent operation, these wise mi mediately secured all the available water rights and a large area of timber for use 2,000,000 feet of which is annually used to safely timber the tunnels, slopes and ci
The Smead.
A strictly -class Residential. Tourist and Commercial Hotel, noted far Its Que cufllne
and extra cared for rooms, 100 rooms, 25 en suite, with bath. All modern
equipment, large well Uglited sample room for commercial men.
INTERIOR ELLISON HOIST. 'w host of the Homcstake mine Is the flnest piece of machinery fn the Black HWs, capable ot reaclillig down and raising ten tons from 3,000 feet below tbe aurtacft.
Pluma Mining Company'S Mill.
LEAD— CliinifJ.
removing the more than 1,000,000 tons of ore crushed hy the r go3 stamps every year. To carry this timber to the mine the company huiit the first railroad in the Black Hills, which was later extended to Piedmont, connecting with the Fremont, Elkhorn & Missouri Valley Railroad. This line has recently been purchased by the Burlington & Missouri Railroad and connected with their trunk line. bringing their road to the city of Lead,
This great mining enterprise, begun by this trio of intrepid mining men, was incorporated November 5, 1877, with a capital stock of $10,000,000, which lias been increased to $22,000,000, making the largest gold mining company in the world, which has the proud record of never having missed a dividend since the first one paid in January 15, 1879. the total amount of which has been more than $12,000,000.
Gold exists in the ores of the Black Hills in forms, commonly called free milling and refractory. Free milling ore is that in which the gold is found in pure metal form and has but to be separated from the ore and gathered together. Refractory ore is that in which the gold is in a decomposed state and must be restored to metal form by chemical process or heat at the same time that it is separated from the ore. The Homestake mine is essentially a free milling ore, only a small fraction being refractory. The ore is mined in 100-foot drifts; that is, a shaft is sunk 100 feet lower than the previous drift, and a tunnel opened lengthwise of the lead. The ore is mined from above and dropped into the cars, and the space cleared is filled with timbers, until the 100 feet are ail mined down; then another drift 100 feet lower is opened and worked in the same way. The cars are hauled to the hoist by mules, and are then hoisted to the surface at the top of the hill and the ore is dropped down through one process after another until the gold reaches the assay office at the foot of the hill. As the ore comes out of the mines it is in the form of slate-colored rock and quartz, in chunks as large as a man can lift. The car is pushed from the hoist around to the crushers, which are large coffee mill shaped machines, located in a pit a dozen feet below the car track. They grind the ore into bits not larger than a goose egg, and they chew up the hard, flinty rock as easily coffee mill grinds coffee. The ore falls from the crushers into cars and Is run from the io of the hoist to the upper story of the stamp mill, a little farther down the hill, and is dumj
The 8. R. Smith'S Furniture Store.
Department Store Of J. A. Berger.
Established 1897 In a room 22xGO Feet. Now ornipies aiiove building floor space of
arer 14.000 eQuare feet anfl containing one o( the largest stocks of
General Mercbaiirtiae In Wv WW*.
LEAD STEAM LAUNDRY. Wash Hoom, Ironing Department, Assorting Department.
LEAD — Cutmuii.
hojr which feeds the ore to the stamps. The stamps are monster pestles, loo standing in a row on each side of the building, and are constantly lifting and falling into large mortars, through which flows a stream of water, and as the rock is reduced to powder it is washed out of the mortar in the form of very muddy water, passing through a screen and down over a series of aprons coated with quicksilver, that attracts the fine particles of gold and holds it on the apron. When the quicksilver has taken sufficient gold to make it a paste it is scraped from the apron, and this mercury and metal, called amalgam, is squeezed dry in a chamois skin, looking like a ball of tin. Twice a month this amalgam is taken to the assay office, where it is placed in a crucible, the mercury vaporized by heat, passing through a tube in the top of the crucible down into a tub of water which condenses it. When this part of the process is complete the quicksilver is in the bottom of the tub of water ready for use again and the gold is left m the bottom of the crucible. It now has a porous, spongy appearance, being filled with dross. It is next placed in a kettle in a furnace and melted, the dross rising to the top is skimmed off and the pure metal poured into a mould and when cooled is a veritable gold brick, ready for the United States mint, weighing between 1,900 and 2,000 ounces and worth about $18 an ounce.
Their 900 stamps **never sleep," but drop constantly upon the ore from one year's end to the other, and are divided into six separate mills, from 100 to 200 in each mill. Each stamp is capable of pulverizing four tons of ore in twenty-four hours, making 3,600 tons per day or 1,314,000 tons per annum. To feed these incessant pulverizers and prepare for the mint their precious product, requires an army of 1,600 to 2,500 men. In twenty-five years these workers have excavated 100 miles of tunnels, and have handled with human hands 40,000,000,000 pounds of gold ore that has put into the mints of our country the enormous sum of $90,000,000.
The busy, bustling, up-to-date city of Lead gives little evidence at its twenty-fifth anniversary of the chaotic character of its childhood, when, like Topsy and Boston, it "just growed up." Each new arrival staked for himself a new lot and erected his tent or cabin, until the settlement, on the ground now covered by the noisy Homestake mills, arose to the proportions that demanded a name and was christened Washington. Many arrivals at "the New Lead" caused the bounds to extend
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Interior Of Grocery Store Of P. A. Gushur8T.
Hr, Quaburet opened the first grocery store Id Lead Aug. 10, 1876, and has shown hit
ability by holding a large share ot the grocery trade, being still one of
the leading grocers ot the
Interior Of Drug Store Of W. R. Dickenson.
b.'Rl .iriiK store In thf Black Hills, Mr. Dickfiis
Interior Of Jewelry Store Of Wolfe Fink.
Mr. Fink boa occupied tbie Jewelery store tor 20 years and Is therefor tbe pioneer
jeweler ot Lead. He carries a large and well assorted stock. q(
jewelery, dlamoDda ani wttcXvftft,
LEAD— Ces/wfd'.
farther up the gulch. sDon covering the lower portion of Main street. Its enterprising citizens began to realize the [wissihilitics of a future city and the need of system and order, wlien a private corporation was formed, by which the town was governed until 1890 under the name of Lead City (pronounced Iced, a mining term meaning vein or lode. )
The first frame building erected was the blacksmith shop on the corner of Main and Mill streets, which, after a quarter of a century of usefulness, has, the present season, been torn down to give place for the new depot under erection by the Fremont, Elkhorn & Missouri Valley Railroad, which has completed an extension of its line from Deadwood to Lead, rivaling in scenic beauty the finest routes in the Black Hills, with its terminal in the most central part of the city. The first grocery store was opened by Lee & Patterson, followed only two weeks later by another store by P. A. Gushurst on the corner now occupied by the department .store of J. A. Berger. Mr. Guslmrst opened his store August 10. 1876, and is still one of the leading grocers of the city.
The first furniture store was opened and is still successfully conducted by S. R. Smith, having increased from a small pioneer store to four floors in a double building, with several warehouses carrying the overflow stock. When the Elkhorn Railroad reached Buffalo Gap in i88q Mr. Smith was on the ground with a branch furniture store, erected the first building put up in the town, and . sold furniture outdoors for a month Ijefore lumber could be procured for shelter.
.A prosperous Miners* Union has existed in the city for twenty-five years, which now numbers more than 400 members and has erected the finest business block in the city, a three-story block of Black Hills calico sandstone, at a cost of $68.ooo.-
Mrs. Hearst has given to the cilv a fine and much ajipreciated free library and reading room. also a free kindergarten, boih of which have won for her the sincere gratitude of her citizens.
Public instruction, which began with a private school by Miss Graham, in a log cabin on Bleeker street, has kept pace with the growth of the city and modern methods and boasts the finest public school building in the Black Hills.
In 1890 the town was incorporated, the superfluous "city" dropped from its nomenclature, J now passes by the simple name Lead.
Terry, S. D., Ore Train Bound For Deadwood.
FOOT BALL TEAM, SPEARFI8H NORMAL. Special attention Is given to athletics at the State Normal School. A new park baa
Spearfish
The town of Spearfish is but sixteen miles from Deadwooo, as the stage coach goes daily to and fro, but the railroad wriggles this sixteen miles into forty of the wildest, most romantic scenery in the Black Hills, requiring' four hours to traverse, if there is not more than the usual amount of freight traffic to transact, and perhaps a couple of hours more if there is. Starting .south, in the opposite direction from our destination, we follow up the main line to Englewood, where an extraordinary time is spent in switdiing. coaling and watering the thirsty engine. The passenger coach, a combination car, one-third baggage, one-third closed coach and one-tiiird observation car, is turned on a Y and we start up the grade for the divide between Bald Mountain and Terry Peak, at the foot of which is the town of Terry. This is the famous Bald Mountain ore fields where nnich of the gold ore treated at Deadwood is mined. The panoramic view from this elevation is fine indeed. In a line toward the foothills lie the towns of Terry, Lead and Deadwood, the latter only seven miles away, which we left two hours ago, while beyond rises Bear Butte, and as far as the eye can see extend the vast plains of South Dakota. A little further on is the town of Portland, and then, passing through a deep rock cut, we cross ihe divide. 6,500 feet above the level of the sen, and tibtnin a fine view of the canon below and the pine-covered hills as far as the eye can reach.
-At the foot of the precipice, L.oo feet below, so near that one imagines he might easily throw a stone to it, lies our track; but with the usual perverseness of the country our engine is again headed away from our destination and the communicative conductor tells us we must travel seven miles to gain that 1.300 feel. The bottom of the canon reachetl and a horseshoe curve made to get our engine at last headed toward the train sto])S at Elmnre. the town in the canon. VVe are still farther from Siicarfish than when we started three hours ago, but they have been hours of pleasure and interest and ihe bust ii yet lo cinie. The endless variety of fantastic forms yellow limestone rock, towering a thousand feet on either side, the light green foliage of birch intermingled with the dark green of the spruce and pine on the hillsides, and t
Town Of 3Pearfi8H, S. D.
South Dakota State Normal School.
VOUNG WOMEN'S HALL. ThiM biillaing Ih tiixWi feet. Hvp Mtorhn hlRh. ciintalnliiK a weU ruiiiu anil laundry, llaw a bath ami liilli't mom im every Hih the KtiiileiitH' rooniH are all kiiIIcs nf twii ami tlirci' nmmH ci
SPEARFISH— /wflrV.
Spearfish river, sparkling over the rocks in its variety of cascades and rapids, with a halt for a special look at Spearfish Falls, make a never-to-be-forgotten impression of the beautiful in nature.
The town of Spearfish was organized because of the fine location for a city and the fertility of the valley watered by the never failing Spearfish river, by some of the early emigrants in 1876. A large company came in from Montana early in the spring and were so attracted by the possibilities of agriculture in the rich, well watered valley, that many of them made locations and settled down. building a block-house for defense against the hostile Sioux, and platting the town. Their crops were sure and abundant, and with potatoes forty cents a pound, as a medicine against scurvy in the mining camps, and prices of all pnjduce high, the community has never failed to prosper. Several of the large cattlemen of the mUside ranges make this their home, and many others reside here because of the superior educational advantages that are not excelled in the state. Some of the best hunting and fishmg grounds in the Hills are in the adjacent hills and canons, and if one seeks rest and recreation no more desirable place can be found. A government fish hatchery is located here for the production of brook trout, the pure soring water being especially suited to their culture.
The finest fruit in the Black Hills is raised at Spearfish, much of the credit for which belongs to President F. L. Cook of the State Normal School, who lias spent much time and expense in testing and experimenting to ascertain the varieties best suited to this climate and soil, and who has a fine small fruit farm of several acres, raising strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries, currants and blackberries of the finest quality.
The first brick block erected in the town is the one occupied by the Bank of Spearfish, erected in 1883- The locating of the State Normal School in 1885 brightened the prosjiects of the town and stimulated permanent building, resulting in good, substantial business blocks and residences, which, with the luxuriant foliage, resulting from the complete system of irrigation throughout the town. makes it a picturesque place.
The South Dakota State Normal School began at Spearfish in 1885 with Prof. '. as the only teacher, and fourteen pupils. Two years later it moved into their new buildii
ASSEMBLY ROOM, e main school room In whicli the pupils prepare their leaBone and from they pass to the recttation rooms of the varloua teacher.
Interior Views Spearfish Normal.
Interior Views Spearfish Normal.
SPEARFISH— Cminuti.
teachers and one hundred and twenty-five pupils, and its progress under the management and selfsacrificing efforts of Prof. Cook has been steady and continual, which reflects all the more credit when the small chance in the bepjinning is considered, only $7,000 being appropriated for building and running expenses for two years, and $5,000 for the running expenses for the next two years, the difficulties of the situation being augmented many fold by the apathy of the citizens in not supporting the work as loyally as would naturally be expected. The election of Hon. John Wolzmuth to the state legislature in 1887 resulted in securing through his efforts an appropriation of $25,000 far the erection of a suitable building, and witii success and money in sight the citizens awakened to the importance of the work. The new building was erected and occupied in November, 1887, and with the acknowledged ability of the faculty well established, the school found itself on a permanent basis. It now has a faculty of fourteen strong teachers, with wide ex]>erience and professional training. The course of instruction extends through five years, and embraces work suitable for all grades of students, from those barely prepared to get a country teacher's certificate to those who have had the advantage of a college course and need only professional training.
The school is designed for the training of teachers. This primary purpose is never lost sight of, but at the same time it would be difficult to find a better college preparatory school, and it is not easy to see how the first year's course can be improved upon for a business course. In that year much careful attention is given to composition, mental arithmetic, business arithmetic, elementary natural science by laboratory methods, penmanship, drawing, commercial geography, reading, spelling and typewriting. These are the subjects that every student preparing for business should be seeking to know. Thev are taught Iwtter in this school than in any commercial college. In the subsequent work of the school, there is not a thing but would be of great value for the prospective mechanic, merchant, lawyer, doctor and farmer, as well as teacher. For all young men and women, whatever calling they may expect to follow, there is nothing so effective in developing mental power, elevating character, and preparing for intelligent citizenship as the professional work in a good normal school. The pn teaching under supervision is the most valuable discipline.
Commercial Room.
In this room &re
f
Pi
SAWMILL OF J. E. BLAINE— HILL CITY. :;. Mr. nialne two well-equipped mills, one at Hill City t Spcarflsh. Cutting mining limber to order Is a epeeialty. Offices at SpeaiAsh, S. D.
RUSSELL BLOCK— BUILT 18S0. Photo by Sanrord.
The SpearflBh Furniture Co. make a specialty of Souvenir Goode, Queensware aod Pbotographfl of Spearflah Caoon. Mrs. O. W. Holmes has been In business five years, starting la 1897, and eajoye a well merited
A choice library of several thousand volumes, including the finest reference library in the state, belongs to the school. While the desirability of supplying reading for leisure hours lias not been overlooked in the selection of books, the main purpose has been to provide the means of pursuing the branches prescribed in the course of study. A reading room is maintained by the school which is perhaps the most complete in the state. It contains files of about one hundred of the leading periodicals. This reading room is accessible to students at nearly all hours of the day, and is an important means of growth in intelligent grasp of leading questions of the day. It is very helpful in the work of the literary and debating society.
The school has a collection of several thousand specimens, but it is desirable that this be largely increased. Cases have provided for storing and displaying any donations made. The school will pay the freight on interesting and valuable additions, and proper acknowledgment will be made in the circular and by placing the donor's name on the label. Friends of the school, graduates and students are earnestly solicited to aid in enlarging the collection.
The completion of the beautiful and commodious Young Woman's Hall, which has now been used for one year with the greatest satisfaction to all concerned, is the most important event in the history of the school since the erection of the main school building in 1887. This building reduces the cost of a course in the school more Chan one-third and furnishes a delightful and healthful home for a large number of students. It is of stone, 102 by 62 feet, and three stories high, besides basement and attic, which practically add two more stories. The students' rooms are in suites, each suite consisting of a sleeping room and a study, connected by an archway. The rooms vary somewhat in size, but average about twelve feet square. Each suite has the following furniture, all of extra quality: Iron bedstead, spring mattress, pillows, dresser, washstand, towels, bowl and pitcher, water pitcher and glasses, toilet set, wardrobe, study table, book case, chairs, for the archway, and a Brussels rug for the study. The rooms are all heated by steam and wired for electric lights, which will be used if arrangement can be made with the Spearfish Electric Light Company. Each suite of roor"= is to be occupied by two students. All the rooms in the building except four sleeping rooms i side rooms. There is a water-closet and a bath room on every floor.
Bank Of Spearfish.
EstabllBbed 1SS2.
The Wolzmuth Block.
John Wolzmutb ranie to the Blark Hills In 1ST6 and has been In the hanlware business
Kt SpearflBh Since 1891. He haa one of the most complete stocks
or Harilware anil Farm Machlneri>' In the Hills.
HOLY TERROR MINE. The most widely known mine In the Southern , noted for Its exceedlnglf rtcli ai The President, Mr. R. B. Hugbs. Is a pioneer nevfiv.T cA. '%Af!>. HilJa, and one o( the most uRaMiT*.
Keystone
Keystone is the mining center of the southern Hills, being situated in the great gold belt that can be clearly traced from Lead and for twenty miles south of Keystone, until it dips under the limestone of the foothills. The development of Keystone is in its infancy, but has progressed far enough to demonstrate that it has a future of great promise. There are large bodies of low grade ore similar to the ore of the Homestalve hut of richer quality, while myriads of narrow veins of astonishing richness shoot up to the surface, but widen with depth, every one of which will, with experienced management, make a paying gold mine. This has been demonstrated by the Holy Terror mine, which was but one of these narrow shoots on the surface, but at 1,200 feet down yields an ounce of gold to the ton of ore. The discoverers divided $40,000 profits between theni. The present company has paid $200,000 in dividends, bought the neighboring Keystone mine and mills, and without doubt will make an immense fortune for its present owners. The lack of resources for pro|>er development by the prospectors who have discovered them, and the timidity of capital in going at development in a thorough, systematic manner alone accounts for the slow development of this phenomenally rich gold field, and capital tbat will sink deep enough to start with and baldly cross-cut this section is sure of good returns for the investment. The introduction of the ecoiiomica) cyanide process will no doubt soon induce this investment of capital and make the Keystone district yet more famous in the gold mining world.
The Tykoon mine is rapidly being developed under wise management, as are also several others, while many properties, such as the Ivanhoe and others, are in the market for capital and will soon dividend-paying mines.
The values of this section are not confined to gold alone. Large quantities of mica, spodumene, tin, copper, iron and several other profitable products add their share to the great mineral wealth of the district.
Keystone.
Keystone Trading Co.
KEYSTON E— CantinaeJ.
Keystone has the most romantic location of any town in the Black Hills, and to any one loving rugged mountain scenery it is a veritable earthly paradise. Surrounded by lofty peaks, the jagged rocks scarcely hidden by the luxuriant pine forests, at an elevation of 4,800 feet above the sea. giving a mountain climate but not too high to be healthful. It is easily reached by daily stage from Hill City, over a good road, past the foot of Harney Peak and down rock-lined canons. The stage line is owned by Mr. A. E. Sbomaker, the veteran liveryman of the town. A spur of railroad runs in from Hill City, over which a train runs to Keystone three days in the week.
One hearing much of pioneer days and going into one of these modern mining camps might expect to find primitive cabins only, with a small country store or two perhaps, but he soon realizes his mistake, finding not only gdud church buildings and a fine two-story graded school building that would make an eastern town of similar proportions green with envy, but department stores of no mean proportions, such as the Keystone Trading Company and the Hayes-Hopkins Supply Company, stocked with almost everything present day wants require. The town is supplied with water from the Holy Terror mine, whose enormous pumps bring to the surface 600 gallons of water per minute, -the pumps being able to give high pressure at any time in case of fire. Sufficient water is pumped from the Holy Terror mine to operate 300 stamps, and as they have made their enormous profits with but 30, the apparent scarcity of water on the surface need not be a hindrance to the full development of the country.
Main Street— Keystone, S. D.
At the right Is the livery bam of A. E. Shoemaker, who
owns the Btage Iloe to Hill City.
Tykoon Mill.
ThlB Is one ol the practical mlnlnK companies of the Southern Hills, and is In very
sttccesBftil operation. The capacity of their mill wlil soon
be greatly enlatgeA.
Interior Graham'S Grocery And P08T0Ffice.
Mr. J. F. QrabBtn makes a Bpecfaltj' of Groceries, Powder and Mine Supplies, and
carries a good stock of GcDeral Merchandise, Fruit, Stationery. Etc.
Custer
This picturesque town has the honor of being the first town in the Black Hills, and its history is as fascinating as its surroundings. Here General Custer camped in his tour of the Hills in 1874. and here the first pan of gold was washed out in the now famous Black Hills by H. N. Ross, who still resides in the town and tells of Custer's memorable exploring ex])edition. Here the historic "Gordon Party" built their stockade and lived imt the lonesome days of the first winter spent by white men in the Black Hills. This was the "Mecca" of all gold seekers in this forbidden country during the first eighteen months nf the gold excitement, until the glories of the rich placer mines in Deadwood gulch dimmed its splemlors and turned the tide to the northern Hills. But its departed prestige as the commercial center of the gold fields cannot rob it of its magnificent climate, its beautiful scenery and splendid townsite, and it bids fair, with the rich mines now opening, to regain its [Kisition as one of the leading mining towns of the Hills.
Located in a commodious natural park, with just enough incline for good drainage, surrounded by forest and granite in the most charming and romantic combinations and ideal scenic effects, with an elevation of five thousand five hundred feet the sea, kissed by almost perpetual sunshine and fanned by warm Chinook winds in the winter and cool mountain breezes in the summer, it is one of the most delightful places for a vacation in the mountains to he found in any country, or for a permanent residence for one whose health demands a mountain home.
This historic town was first organized July 2, 1875, "nder the name of Stonewall, in honor of General Stonewall Jackson, but the Sioux title to the country prevented any legal claim for the organizers, and upon the order by General Crook that the miners leave the Hills and permission from him to allow seven men to remain as trustees of property, the town was reorganized on August 10 f the same year and rechristened Custer, the lots being divided among the miners present. So large number of these failed to return after the exodus that in December, upon the withdrawal of the cavalry and cessation of governmental opposition to the occupation of the country, the town was a&rain
Custer, 8. D.
Custer Cash Store.
Custer Co. Bank.
CUSTER— Cminutd.
reorganized and began to assume an aspect of permanency. All the life and activity of a flourishing gold mining camp pervaded the young city, and in the next five months fourteen hundred log cabins of various dimensions were erected, but even they provided meager shelter for the rapidly growing population, which increased until April, when the proud young city numbered seven thousand souls. No warning or premonition of the destiny of the young city prepared its citizens for the tinexpected that came with the discovery of the rich placer mines at Deadwood. in the spring of 1876. With the first rumors seekers began the stampede toward the northern Hills, which increased as the confirmation of the reports became more established, until in the short space of three weeks the seven thousand had dwindled to fourteen residents. Six of this loyal fourteen still reside in the town and have nobly done their share in rebuilding the fortunes of their historic town, S. R. Shankland. Mr, and Mrs, H. A, Albien, Mrs. S, M. Booth, Frank Peterson and WiJliani Kraus.
The natural advantages of its location and the prestige of its name in the outside world forbade the complete annihilation of the pioneer city, and it gradually began to rally from the most remarkable stampede known to mining history. The unusually wet season of 1878 furnished an abundance of water for placer mining in the French Creek valley and neighboring gulches, which brought into the vicinity several hundred miners who traded largely in Custer. Cattlemen also began to come in large numbers to occupy the vast ranges of the western foothills and the luxuriant parks of the Hills. The discovery in 1879 of the .Atlantic. Grand Junction, Old Bill and Penobscot mines created quite a sensation and afforded a substantial boom for the now rapidly growing city, which was well sustained by the discovery soon after of mica in large quantities, making Custer the center of the mica interests in the Black Hills, more than half a million dollars' worth having been shipped from there, the shipments in one year being more than sixty thousand dollars.
The McMacken was the ])pioneer mica mine and has produced more than one hundred and thirty-five thousand dollars. The Lost Bonanza, opened soon after, has produced more than one hundred thousand, while the Climax, New York, Last Chance, Keystone, Window Light, Warren, Millard, Nellie and others have added their share to the profitable industry.
Interior Of J. M. Bailev And Company'S Planing Mill.
This Company operates three well -equipped aawmlllB. planlog mill, store and offices
at Custer, and offices at Lead.
INTERIOR OF J. E. PILCHER-S DRUG STORE. The lin* of Drapi, Jleirin** and Sovehip* in the uiwn.
INTERIOR W. H. WALLING'S DRY GOODS STORE. . Walling 1b one of tbe moet Buccessful merchaatB ot Cufltr, enjoying a well merited patronaKe.
CUSTER—dntinueJ.
The typical mining camp now began to develop into a permanent city. A brick court house was erected during the summer of 1881, at a cost of thirty thousand dollars. The next year Patrick McHugh built a fine brick residence on West Custer avenue and Paul Kleeman began the erection of a large hotel, also of brick, on East Custer avenue. In 1884 H. A. Albien erected a two-story brick business block on one of the principal corners, and the western appreciation of education manifested itself in the erection of a fine two-storv brick school building costing about seven tJiousand dollars. The same year the Congregational church erected a brick edifice, which was the first building erected for public worship in the Black Hills of any material more permanent than wood.
With the arrival of the railroad in the fall of iBqo the town took a new lease of life, marked by the erection of a two-story brick business block by T, V. Garlock, and a two-story brick office building by the Custer County Bank. Many other buildings of various importance had been erected, including business bouses, residences and the Methodist, Baptist and Catholic churches.
Not only has Custer one of the finest climates to be found anywhere and the most picturesijue scenery to be found in this romantic region, it has also, as an added attraction. Sylvan Lake, the pride of the Hills and one of its most popular summer resorts. It is undoubtedly one of the most unique of mountain lakes and its proximity to Harney Peak and the renowned Needles makes it perhaps the most attractive place in the Hills, a tour of which cannot be complete without a visit to Custer. Sylvan Lake, the Needles and a climb to the top of Harney Peak for a birdseye view of the country and surrounding plains.
This beautiful lake is one of the modern things of the Hills, its history dating back but a decade. Prospectors had discovered a park, of about fifteen acres in extent, six miles from Custer and three miles from Harnev Peak, so nearly surrounded by Needles that but one opening allowed the little mountain stream to find its way out of the picturesque park, the stopping of which transformed it into a most beautiful sheet of water, picketed about by the imposing needles. Mr. J. C. Spencer undertook the work and in 1891 built the dam that produced this magic transformation. Not content with this taming of the mountain stream, he built, in 1895, a finely equipped modem hotel
Garlock Block.
Mr, T. V. Qarlock Is on© ot the enterprising merchants ot Cuater, doing business in
his own block, which he erected In 1890. He carries a large
Block of both Hardware and Orocerles.
Shoeing Bronchos In The Black Hills.
Kleeman House.
upon the banks of the nitractive lake. Here, at an elevation of seven thousand five hnntired feel above the sea, surrounded by the wild, romantic and picturesque, the pleasure or health-seeking tourist can spend a most delightful season, the memory of which will be a joy forever.
Another great attraction of the Black Hills is located near Custer, that will, when fully developed, rival the great wonders of nature. Each of the three great caves of the Black Hills, that are the greatest and must wonderful caves known to exist anywhere, are well worthy of all the attention any one is likely tl: give them. A visit to each one reveals some marvel not seen in the others, and well repays the effort. Judging from the evidences of both Wind and Crystal Caves, the discoverers of Jewel Cave are working in the top of a yet unexplored cave of grand proportions, equal probably to Wind Cave in depth and extent. It was discovered in ipoo by the Michand brothers, who were prospecting in Hell's canon, one of the rockiest, most precipitous canons and one ot the most beautiful, notwithstanding its infernal name, in the Hills. They were letting themselves carefully down a chimney in the rocks and remarking the favorable character of the place for a cave, when one of noticed a hole a couple of inches in diameter and called his brother's attention to it, saying: "There is the entrance to a cave." The brother began pulling away the earth with his hand when the strong current of air blew a cloud of dust in his face. They knew so strong a current could come only from an immense cavern, and that they had indeed discovered a cave of great extent.
Subsequent exploration opened thirteen miles of passageways and 270 chambers, some of them among the grandest to be seen in any cave. A commodious log hotel of two stories has been built, providing hospitable shelter for the visitor, who will ever cherish the memory of a' visit to the romantic place.
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Sylvan Lake.
Arrival Of Tally-Ho At Sylvan Lake.
'. C. Creary has associated with Sylvan Ikt: from its beginning, ru
a tally-ho from every train during tbe season and furnlablog carriages
for tourists to all points of Interest,
MILK RIVER, JEWEL CAVE. B a. beautiful onyx rormation tn Jewel Cave, twelve milea from Custer, In the picturesque Hell's Canon. Onyx tormatlons abound Id thla cave. Onyi Hall being the most magnlflcent display of the kind In existence.
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sm.
FROST WORK— JEWEL CAVE. Frost work, rivaling in beauty tbe beat ettecte ol "Jack Froat," cover tbe walla ot many cbambera In tbe cavea of tbe Black Hllla. and sparkle witb re' Bpleudeat beauty under magnesium llgbL
OXfORD HOTEL, DENVER, COLORADO. One Block from Union Depot.
Dbhvbr Is Tbe P
F The Bdhisg World
The Hendrie & Bolthoff Mfg. and Supply Co.
Manufacturers Of
HIGH-CLASS, MODERN, UP-TO-DATE MINE AND MILL EQUIPMENT and SUPPLIES
Steam, Compressed Air, Gasoline and Kleclric Hoists. NoRWALK Air Compressors — Simple, Compound and
Triple Expansion. Boi I. ERs— -Vertical, Horizontal, Portable and Cahall
Water Tube. Pimps — Boiler Feed, Sinking, Station and Deep Well. Dynamos, Motors, Gas, Gasoline and Steam Kngines.
Every irffiirt iU b.-midc <i:cuir and hM trjdi <if
The Great Black Hills Country
Box Electric Rock Drill
Offlceii aDd SalesroatnB :
Denver, Colo.
Oppoiile nnion Depot
J"' J
STANR3RD UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES STANFORD, CALIFORNIA j 94505 J
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