A Pioneer of 1850: George Willis Read 1819-1880 ; The record of a journey overland from Independence, Missouri, to Hangtown , California, ... the Nevada silver mining district in 1863.

George Willis Read · 1927 · Historical

A Pioneer of 1850: George Willis Read 1819-1880 ; The record of a journey overland from Independence, Missouri, to Hangtown , California, ... the Nevada…

Public-domain full text preserved in the Mountain Man Mining Library. Original source: archive.org.

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eA Pioneer of 1850

George Willis 'Read ISI9Q-IE80

The record of a journey overland from Independence, Missouri, to Hangtown (Placerville), California, in the spring of 1850, with a letter from the Diggings in October of the same year and an account of journey from New York to California, via Panama, in 1862, capture by the confederate raider Alabama, etc., and a visit to the Nevada silver mining district in 1863

Edited By

Georgia Willis Read

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—— e Copyrights 19275 By Littte, Brown, AND CoMPANY

All rights reserved

Published September, 1927

Acknowledgment

@|Y thanks are due to many libraries, institutions and individuals, for help received in the preparation of this work. Among i these should be mentioned the Edward E, Rie eillesonet the Newberry Library of Chicago, the New York Public Library, the Library of Columbia University, and the Museum of the American Indian, Heye Foundation, for loans of books and other courtesies; the Missouri Historical Society for information concerning early views of Independence; the Park Book Shop of New York and Goodspeed's of Boston for search for material needed and loans of books; Mr. Thomas C. Cosmus of Columbia University for advice as to the reproduction of old plates; Mr. Stephen G. Cleveland for his skilled photographs of the frontispiece and certain of the illustrations; Mrs. Edward H. Dayton for permission to quote from the unpublished journal of her father, Henry L. Van Scoy; my cousins, Mrs. R. L. Kenah and the late Miss Myrtilla Read, for the gift of the letters constituting Part IV; and others not named for invaluable assistance in locating relevant source material and plates.

New York, OSE

April, 1927

Preface

mace 2 Worn sheepskin notebook which I hold ) in my hand are the pencilled entries that tell the story of a great endeavor and

Mae: a great achievement. Scrawled, sometimes by the light of the camp fire during his watch, often early in the morning before his companions had awakened from the deep slumber of exhaustion, or while the cook prepared the evening meal in camp, this pioneer of 1850 recorded faithfully what he saw and felt.

The great company of emigrants hurrying westward after the discovery of gold at Sutter's mill in 1848 forms an Odyssey unparalleled in modern history. The total number of persons making their way from the eastern part of the United States to California annually during the first years of the gold rush has been variously estimated at from seventy thousand to one hundred and forty thousand; and the proportion of these who journeyed overland, at from

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thirty thousand to sixty thousand.* Of these, the overland travelers are commonly considered to have faced

1 Hittell ("History of California," 4 vols., San Francisco, 1898, v.-3, p. 44) suggests the lower of these estimates: " The arrivals at the port of San Francisco during 1850 were a little over thirty-six thousand; and there were probably nearly as many more persons who came overland."

Soulé, Gihon and Nisbet ("The Annals of San-Francisco," New York, 1855, p. 300) give the same figure for arrivals by sea in San Francisco in 1850, and claim furthermore that fully one half of these immigrants came from foreign countries [i.e., not from the eastern parts of the United States] ; they quote Johnson, however (p. 286), as saying that 60,000 overland emigrants had arrived or were on their way to California by way of the South Pass in the same year.

E. G. Squier, archeologist and traveler,-and our chargé daffaires to the Republics of Central America during the years 1849-1850, in his " Notes on Central America," etc., New York, 1855, p. 288, gives the following: ' The authors of the Report on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec (a work of value, to which I cheerfully yield my highest commendations for its large and welldigested collection of facts) have calculated that, for the four years preceding 1852, the number of passengers between the Atlantic States of the United States and California was 412,942, of which 241,522 went by way of Panama and Nicaragua (the route last named having then just been opened). They calculated the amount of freight which had been carried across the isthmus during the same period at 47,000 tons, the amount of gold at $138,620,000, and the average weight of mails per each steamer, 9000 lbs, In addition to the passengers above enumerated, 11,021 went to California by way of Cape Horn.

"Leaving out the year 1848, it appears that, for the three remaining years, the annual emigration between the Atlantic

we,

Preface

severer hardships than the others, crossing, by, sheer dint of will, it would seem, " the perilous plains of the Far West," the Rocky Mountains, the almost uncharted desert basin, and the Sierra Nevada.

It is difficult to realize the conditions under which this enormous — for out of a population of twelve millions of quiet, home-abiding people, a sudden displacement of from seventy-five thousand to one hundred thousand, shall we say, annually for several years, must be conceded to be large — this enormous Westward Ho movement took place.

In the spring of 1850, for instance, when our travelers took the trail at the point where the United States virtually ceased and the frontier began, the steam railway had not yet reached St. Louis. Seven years were to elapse before the threads of steel were: to bind together the Atlantic seaboard and the Mississippi valley. In the eastern part of the country, the steam railroads, after nearly twenty-five years of States and California, including that overland, amounted to 141,- 350. Of these 80,190 went annually by sea."

The truth probably is that the population of California during the first years of the gold rush was so fluctuating and so migratory,

while at the same time facilities for recording vital statistics were so limited, that the question must remain in a more or less confused

state. [ ix ]

Preface

experimentation and use, were coming into their own, supplanting both horse and water transportation; while a network of canals and stagecoach routes still served to carry travelers in the States lying just east of the Mississippi. Congress had come to the conclusion that Morse was not a lunatic. His historic electric telegraph line between Baltimore and Washington had been installed six years before with the aid of the government, but its use had not yet been extended to the railroads. The Erie system was soon to inaugurate this policy, a needed improvement, in view of the era of expansion then dawning — " the most dangerous period of travel in America."

The whole western half of the continent, recently acquired by the government of the United States, was practically unknown to the majority of the American people.

Within a few years, approximately, two million square miles had been added to our territory. Texas, Louisiana and California had been acquired by purchase, so-called, and a mutual compromise between England and ourselves had given us undisputed pos-

Dunbar, "A History of Travel in America," 4 vols., Indianapolis, 1915, p. 1056.

[x]

. Ramet?

Preface

session of our share of the Oregon country, including the then unformed States of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and parts of Montana and Wyoming, as far north as the 49th parallel.*

Colton, J. H., "The Western Tourist and Emigrant's Guide," etc. New York, edition of 1850, pp. 21-22: " The public lands belonging to the General Government are situated:

"Tst. Within the United States as defined by the treaty of 1783, which terminated the Revolutionary War; and are embraced by the states of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, and that part of Minesota east of the Mississippi river, all of which have been formed out of the North-western Territory, as conveyed with certain reservations to the United States—— by New York in 1781, Virginia in 1784, Massachusetts in 1785, and Connecticut in 1786. Also the lands within the boundaries of the states of Mississippi and Alabama, north of the thirty-first degree of north latitude, as conveyed to the United States by Georgia in 1802.

"2d. Within the territories of Orleans and Louisiana, as acquired from the French Republic by the treaty of 1803, including that portion of the states of Mississippi and Alabama south of the thirty-first degree of north latitude; the whole of the states of Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri, lowa, and that portion of Minesota west of the Mississippi river, the Indian Territory, the district of country called Nebraska, the territory of Oregon, and the region of country north of the forty-second and south of the forty-ninth degree of north latitude, which lies between Oregon and Minesota.

"3d, Within the state of Florida, as obtained from Spain by the treaty of 1819; and

" 4th. In New Mexico and California as acquired from the Republic of Mexico by the treaty of 1848.

"' Within the limits recognized by these treaties and cessions our

[xi ]

Preface

Eight or ten great exploring expeditions had pierced this country to the west of the Mississippi River, beginning with that of Lewis and Clark nearly half a century before, and containing on their rosters such names as Pike, Long, Bonneville, Jedediah Smith and Frémont. These individuals had brought back fairly full accounts of the narrow zones of territory traversed by them. A few fur-trading posts and government forts formed the outlying American settlements. A thin and intermittent stream of travel followed the establishment, in 1829, of a steamboat line making annual trips up the Missouri River, and, in the south, the opening of the Santa Fé trail by government treaties with the Indians. In very, recent years a small but increasing stream of emigrants had crossed the Rocky Mountains, by the South Pass, making their way to the Oregon country and Utah. By

public lands embrace an estimated area, in round numbers, of 1,584,000,000 of acres; of which, up to 20th Sept., 1849, 146,- 000,000 had been disposed of, and consequently we have remaining, wasold, an area of 1,438,000,000 acres. These lands, in large bodies or detached tracts, are found in the states and territories mentioned within our wide-spread Republic, now stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, and from the British Possessions on the N., to the Gulf of Mexico and the Mexican Republic on the S."

Preface

1850, approximately twenty thousand Americans had thus reached the Far West.*

Technically, we had acquired the country to the Pacific coast; actually, the states bordering on the Mississippi formed the frontier of our civilization. That the vast plain stretching westward from the Mississippi River to the Rocky Mountains was nothing but a great desert, incapable of supporting life, was still an accepted theory. The earlier belief that a mighty river swept westward from the Rocky Mountains to San Francisco Bay, draining the intervening country, had been disproved, and the existence of a great desert basin between the Rocky Mountains and the slopes of the Sierra Nevada had become known. But the character and topography of much of these

ultra-montane regions was still shrouded in conjec- "ture. Frémont, in his epoch-making map of the West, published by order of Congress in 1845, wrote in a great sweeping curve across the country from the

1 Dunbar, of. cit., p. 1224, estimates that 6000 Americans, roughly speaking, had reached the Oregon country by the end of 1845; and p. 1268, that by the close of 1853 the Mormon colony of 15,000 from Nauvoo, Illinois, had reached Salt Lake City, except for those who perished by the way (the majority of these arriving before 1850).

Preface

Columbia River on the north to the Pueblo del los Angeles on the south the words: " THE GREAT BASIN: diameter 11° of latitude, 10° of longitude: elevation above the sea between 4 and 5000 feet: surrounded by lofty mountains: contents almost unknown, but believed to be filled with rivers and lakes which have no communication with the sea, deserts and oases which have never been explored, and savage tribes, which no traveller has seen or described."

1 Frémont, " Report of the Exploring Expedition to the Rocky Mountains in the Year 1842, and to Oregon and North California in the Years 1843-44." Printed by order of the Senate of the United States, Washington, 1845. [Including large folding map in pocket.] In his introduction, pp. 3-4, Frémont says: " The Senate of the United States, and the House of Representatives having each ordered ten thousand copies of the reports of the two exploring expeditions conducted by me, to be printed together.

. " The map which illustrated the report of 1842 is now extended to illustrate the entire expedition of 1843—44, so that a view of both expeditions will be presented together. This map may have a meager and skeleton appearance to the general eye, but is expected to be more valuable to science on that account, being wholly founded upon positive data and actual operations in the field. About ten thousand miles of actual travelling and traversing in the wilderness which lies between the frontiers of Missouri and the shores of the Pacific, almost every camping station being the scene of astronomical or barometrical observations, furnish the materials out of which this map has been constructed. Nothing supposititious has been admitted upon it; so that, connecting with Captain Wilkes's survey of the mouth of the Co-

[ xiv ]

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On the plains immediately to the west of the Mississippi Were congregated, as the result of over two hundred years of continuous compression from the eastward, a large body of Indian nations, including the remnants of some whose original habitat had been as far east as the Atlantic coast. Certain of these had been promised by our government that never again would they be forced to give up the lands occupied by them. Many of these tribes were protected by our government in the enjoyment of their lands and privileges, in return for which they recognized the authority of the United States and promised to allow white travelers to pass unmolested through their territory.

The acknowledgment of our territorial supremacy was, in a sense, an empty thing. " West-bound white men had no right to halt and settle on the prairies beyond Missouri and Iowa until the lands had been acquired by the government from the Indians." " Probably only. a very insignificant part of the white

lumbia, and with the authentic surveys of the State of Missouri, it fills up the vast geographical chasm between these two remote points, and presents a connected and accurate view of our continent from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean."

Dunbar, of. ct., p. 1171.

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Preface

emigrants had any knowledge whatever of the endeavors made by their governmental servants to obtain for them, between 1849 and 1869, the right to move westward by wagon trains, stage-coaches and railways. They felt, and believed, that the ground they traversed was owned by them." It is estimated that our government, between these years, " paid millions of dollars to the red nations beyond the Mississippi in return for the privilege of free and unmolested transit across native territories."

Such was the situation at the beginning of the gold rush, and during its first period, 1849-1850. After 1850, travel to the Far West became less dependent upon personal enterprise. Even as early as the summer of 1850, commercial capital was beginning to interest itself in providing for overland travel, and a stage line was established, making monthly, trips between Independence, Missouri, and Salt Lake City. Later, the first stagecoach service between Salt Lake City and Sacramento was inaugurated. Both of these services, however, were intermittent, and but little used by western travelers. Not until 1857, when Congress authorized the formation of the Overland Mail,

001018) Dal tT 5 Lbid. 5s pe at62.

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Preface

and St. Louis became only twenty-five days distant from San Francisco, did the era of the western stagecoach dawn."

History may enumerate the net results accomplished, and statistics estimate what history hesitates to say. A record like the following, however, makes us history's co-participants; for here is the picture seen by an eyewitness, the story, told by one of the makers thereof. As an original document giving life and color to a phase of our history infinitely remote, though separated by only seventy-five years from to-day, such a document is perhaps deserving of a place among our Americana."

Like Odysseus, these sons of adventure suffered fatigue and accident; like him, they pushed forward none the less. Sturdily, patiently they advanced,

1 [bid., p. 1319.

2 [bid., p. 1299: " Any present-day description of the scenes attending the long overland march which was made by hundreds of thousands between 1849 and 1868, must necessarily fall short of reality, nor should it be attempted. No man who had not himself passed through the experience could adequately tell it. Generalities are not enough to bring us face to face with the significant details of which it was composed, and without which no vivid and truthful picture of it can be obtained. .. . We have

need ... for a... narrative which may bring to us a real understanding of the tribulations of the march to California."

Preface

through mud and rain, through heat and desert sand, through snow and mountain pass, to the triumphant conclusion when, two thousand odd miles beyond the frontier, they drive into Hangtown* for breakfast, with the satisfying knowledge of having arrived in the diggings, and of being only forty or fifty miles from Sutter's Fort, or the newly plotted city of Sacramento!

1 One of the early names of Placerville. Hittell, of. cit., v. 3, pp. 67-70: " After Coloma [the site of Sutter's famous saw-mill, where gold was discovered in January, 1848] and Mormon Island, one of the next most important and earliest settled mining localities was a spot on the ridge south of the South Fork of the American river and about eight miles in a straight line southeast of Coloma. It was located on or near the head of a branch of Weber's creek and appears to have been discovered as a rich field for mining operations comparatively early in 1848 by William Daylor, one of Sutter's associates." Originally the settlement was called Dry Diggings, because the stream usually dried up in the summertime. In January, 1849, five men were caught here in the act of committing a robbery, three of whom were further charged with having committed a murder elsewhere the previous autumn. The five were flogged, and the three accused of murder were hanged, by the miners of the region, who had organized themselves into a vigilance committee for the occasion. From this circumstance, the settlement was called Hangtown, and although the legislature of the state in February, 1850, officially christened the camp Placerville, the old appellation clung to it and apparently was freely used for some years after 1850. It is said to be the first place in California where any person was hanged by lynch law.

Preface

In view of the many thousands who made the overland journey during those early years, comparatively few authentic records have been given to the world — perhaps because but few exist. Tranquil pursuits do not flourish in the rush of adventure and the excitement of gold seeking, and while many of the emigrants undoubtedly were men of standing, many of them, on the other hand, were incapacitated by lack of education from evaluating and describing what they saw.

My father was perhaps particularly well fitted for dispassionate appraisal of the journey. Trained by his profession to be keenly observant, and born of a family accustomed, from early. Colonial days, to serve its country and to bear in mind an ideal of the common weal, he laid aside his practice of medicine to become the captain of a company to cross the plains. Half reluctant to engage in the undertaking, he carried it out, once he had embarked upon it, in a serious and reflective way.

As for his nature, what manner of man he was, this shows itself in his pages. There lie revealed the native generosity, the nobility of character that made his life so signally upright, causing him to be so trusted by his

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patients, so loved by his friends, and so revered by his children. It is in the resilient courage, the resurgent will, of such men — attributes both essential to, and fostered by, his undertaking — that the hope of mankind lies. I, even as a child, although between us lay a darkness not yet to be penetrated, a wall not yet to be scaled, was conscious of these qualities, and it is perhaps fitting that I, his last, his posthumous child, should offer him this tribute, not of memory, but of love.

GEORGIA WILLIS READ New York, April, 1926

ate CONTENTS 4 a Brae a ACKNOWLEDGEMENT Vv ' -PREFACE Vii a I BEFORE THE "JUMP-OFF" 3 g ; a II THE OREGON-CALIFORNIA TRAIL ne a ze E Ill THE DIGGINGS aatOgies L DORADO LOST 12 TVoE DRA =A2y BIBLIOGRAPHY LOS

Roe INDEX x Belg S

Illustrations

GEORGE WILLIS READ Frontispiece From a portrait painted in 1856 by Albert Lauck Dalbey, of Pittsburgh INDEPENDENCE, MISSOURI, ABOUT

" Drawn after nature" by Edmund Flagg From Dana's " The United States illustrated; in views of city and country"

CALIFORNIA EMIGRANTS 30 " 4 caravan of emigrants crossing the Great American Desert, on their route to California and Oregon." From Howe's " Historical collections of the great West," edition

of 1851

A PAWNEE CHIEF 42 From M'Kenney and Hall's " History of the Indian tribes of North America," edition of 1838-1844

Prong-Horned Antelope

(Antilocapra Americana) 42 From a sketch by Albert Bierstadt From Vivian's " Wanderings in the western land"

Pita ORD OF THE PUATIE "RLV ER,

SOUTH FORK 48 From " The Pacific tourist: Williams illustrated trans-conti-

nental guide"

1 In the edition of 1858, this appears as " The Great American Desert in Nebraska."

Illustrations

AN INDIAN ENCAMPMENT ON THE BANKS OF THE MISSOURI 50 Drawn from nature by Charles Bodmer From Maximilian, Prince of Wied's " Travels in the Interior of North America." London, 1843, 1844

CHIMNEY ROCK' 58 Drawn by Frederick Piercy From " Route from Liverpool to Great Salt Lake Valley,"

SCOTT'S BLUFFS © 58 Drawn by Frederick Piercy From " Route from Liverpool to Great Salt Lake Valley,"

FORT LARAMIE 60 Drawn by Frederick Piercy From " Route from Liverpool to Great Salt Lake Valley,"

LARAMIE PEAK' 60 Drawn by Frederick Piercy From " Route from Liverpool to Great Salt Lake Valley,"

FERRY, PLATTE RIVER, NORTH FORK, IN 1849 64 From Alonzo Delano| " Old Block's sketch book,' illustrated by Nahl, " the Cruikshank of California,' 1856

INDEPENDENCE ROCK™ 68 Drawn by Frederick Piercy From " Route from Liverpool to Great Salt Lake Valley,"

This illustration has been reproduced from that in Frederick Piercy's own copy, in which the steel engravings are beautifully clear and detailed.

Illustrations

PEASANT Ee, , 68 Drawn by Frederick Piercy From " Route from Liverpool to Great Salt Lake Valley,"

"GREEN RIVER" The Great Colorado of the West" aie From "The Art Journal " for 1877

PLACERVALLE IN 1850 98 From [Letts " A pictorial view of California," 1853 (Illustrated by the author)

SUTTER'S MILL 104 From Howe's " Historical collections of the great west, edition of 1851

"Where The Gold Comes From" 122

From Marryat's " Mountains and molehills.? London, 1855. (Illustrated by the author)

SACRAMENTO IN 1850 ripe) From [Letts "A pictorial view of California,' 1853. (Illustrated by the author)

THE CAPTURE OF THE U. S$. MAIL STEAMER ARIEL, BY THE ALA- BAMA (290), DECEMBER 7, 1862. FROM A SKETCH BY MR. R.2C. THOMAS, FIRST OFFICER

OF THE ARIEL 132 From " Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper," 1863

1 Note, previous page.

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Illustrations

THE PANAMA RAILROAD IN 1862 140 From Otis's " Illustrated history of the Panama Railroad," edition of 1862 '

MAP-~OF ROUTE OF THE JEBRFERSON-— CALIFORNIA COMPANY end of book Compiled from Colton's map of 1849 and other sources

y

E

ie — iar BEPORE THE "JUMP-OFF "

Before The "Jump-Off"

etree 1849 a company of thirty men, callmj ing itself the Jefferson-California Com-

pany, was formed in Greene County, 4 Pennsylvania, for the purpose of emigrating to the newly opened gold regions in the West. Their intention, as the story has come down to me, was to make the trip in Conestoga wagons, or prairie schooners, before the close of the season of 1849. This plan, however, suffered considerable modification before being carried into effect. One delay after another occurred, until it was deemed prudent for the party to postpone its departure until the following year, utilizing the intervening time to perfect arrangements, assemble equipment, and reach the frontier — then a few miles west of Independence, Missouri — for as early a start as weather conditions in the spring of 1850 would permit. The journey from Pittsburgh to St. Louis, and from St. Louis to Wayne City, the landing for Independence, was made by steamer on

[3]

A Pioneer Of 1850

the Ohio, Mississippi and Missouri rivers. The original plan of proceeding by wagons was laid aside in favor of ponies and pack saddles, only to be finally re-adopted as the most advantageous mode of travel.

Two letters, one from my father toa friend residing in New Brighton, Pennsylvania, and the other from Mr. S. U. Wise, a member of the Company, to his father, Mr. George Wise of Morgantownship, Greene County, give us our first picture of the Company, then collected at Independence, and almost ready to jump off, in the phraseology of the day, or to leave the last outpost of civilization. That of my father follows.*

1 This was sent to the Commercial Journal of Pittsburgh for publication by a friend of its recipient, who wrote as follows:

"Mr. Riddle: I send you the following interesting extracts of a letter just received from an intelligent young physician, who is on his way to California. — He was appointed the Captain of a company of thirty who went from Greene county, Pa., and consented with considerable reluctance to go. It was with regret that I heard of his departure; cherishing, as I do, an interest for him, such as we usually feel for one with whom we have spent many of our school-boy days, and feeling that it would take something better than gold to lure me to that far-off land. But to the extracts. The letter is dated Independence, April 14, 1850, and addressed to a friend, now of this village [New Brighton] but formerly of Jefferson, Greene County."

[4]

Before The "Jump-Off "

"INDEPENDENCE, Mo., April 14, 1850

"] Have often thought of you, since I last grasped your hand to say a long.— perhaps a final, farewell. — I left little Greene with a heavy and sad heart. I found many and true friends there; friends whose images can alone be erased by the obliteration of recollection. I have some faint idea of the elephant, even at this early stage of our long and hazardous journey. We had an unusually unpleasant trip to this place. The weather was of the most disagreeable kind. The boats were all crowded to excess, with adventurers like ourselves. We landed at the Independence landing —-a most uninviting and dismal looking hole. It is known by the pompous name of Wayne City. — All told — three huts inhabited by things in human shape. We remained here over night, slept on the

1 [Letts, J. M.] "A Pictorial View of California; Including a Description of the Panama and Nicaragua Routes, with Information and Advice Interesting to All, Particularly Those who Intend to Visit the Golden Region." By a Returned Californian, New York, 1853, p. 61: "I met several persons who had been in the mines and seen the ' Elephant.' Among others, a fellow passenger on the ' Niantic.' He had been in the country two weeks, and in the mines half an hour. He had just returned [to Sacramento], and was traveling through town trying to sell his utensils, preparatory to returning to the States."

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A Pioneer Of 1850

floor, ate a morsel of such food as could be procured, when we obtained teams to haul our baggage to Independence city, where we are now stopping. Imagine, if you please, our crowd divided into two parties, one with each waggon, for the purpose of holding on our trunks, robes, boxes, blankets, etc., gun in hand, mud knee deep, pant legs inside of a huge pair of Stoga boots, reaching to the knee, with soles inch thick, filled with nails — fancy this, and you have some faint idea of the length of our countenances. To make matters doubly worse, the morning was one of the most gloomy I ever saw. But on we came, toiling and panting for three miles, when Independence, the long-looked-for haven of rest, hove in sight; and we were amply compensated for our privations, by seeing one of the most beautifully situated villages perhaps, in the States. It is located on a lovely plain, elevated three hundred feet above the level of the Missouri river, three miles from its banks. About an hour after arriving, the clouds dispersed, and the sun shone out with summer brightness. For an hour I never was more happy.

"This place numbers about three thousand souls; contains many fine buildings; is rapidly increasing in

Lé]

30) punuip &q Atnjou UMO4LC ,,

Before The "Jump-Off

wealth, numbers, etc." We have been here nine days. You heard, I presume, that we changed our plans at Pittsburgh." But after gaining all the information we could here, we have adopted our original plan, and now intend going in waggons, in messes of four, with four mules to a waggon. We design moving out in a day or two, and encamping until the grass is up sufficiently to subsist our stock, which will not be before the 25th of April or 1st of May.® Our boys are well

Inman, " The Old Santa Fé Trail," Topeka, 1914, pp. 142- 145: " By 1827 trading-posts had been established at Blue Mills, Fort Osage, and Independence. . ... Independence was not only the principal outfitting point for the Santa Fé traders, but also that of the great fur companies. . . . Frequently there would be three hundred mules in a single caravan. . . . Thousands of wagons were also sent out from Independence annually, each drawn by twelve mules or six yoke of oxen. . . . Independence very soon became the best market west of St. Louis for cattle, mules, and wagons. .. . After the close of the war with Mexico ... the trafic . . . began to be divided between Westport and Kansas City. Independence lost control of the overland commerce and Kansas City commenced its rapid growth. Then came the discovery of gold in California. . . . The Old Trail was the highway of an enormous pilgrimage, and both Independence and Kansas City became the initial point of a wonderful emigration."

2 I.e., in favor of pack saddles and ponies.

8 It is a familiar platitude that an army travels on its stomach. So it does, and so do its beasts of burden. The great army of emigrants rushing westward carried their own provender, to be supplemented by such game as they might be able to shoot without

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A Pioneer Of 1850

and in good spirits. The news here is very encouraging; but you have no idea of the crowds flocking from all parts of the great west to the gold region. I fear this more than all beside, and did before I left home. It is healthy here.

" The great crowd of emigrants passed this place, and went to St. Joseph's, two hundred miles above this point. Report says there are ten to thirteen thou-

the expenditure of too much time or energy. The beasts of burden for all those thousands, however, the horses, the oxen, the mules, and sometimes the cows, must, after the first week or two, gather their food from the ground, day by day, or else go hungry. The fate of the travelers, their very lives, as well as the successful outcome of their journey, depended upon the animals. That of the animals, in turn, rested upon the state of the vegetation where they passed. Hence the anxiety of all overland travelers of the time as to grass for their stock.

No automobile of to-day could travel from the Mississippi River to California unless replenished at frequent filling stations. No more could the motive power of that epoch move unless its filling stations did their part. A prairie fire, set by careless travelers, a prolonged drought, a great herd of bison cropping the plains close as they passed — who could foretell what unfortunate series of events might deplete, to the danger point, the potential energy of the motivating engines of the time? As the fur traders had done for many years before them, western emigrants found it expedient to start from the frontier as early in the spring as the grass would sustain their stock. The fact that the vegetation might now prove insufficient for all who came, added impetus to the movement.

[8 ]

Before The "Jump-Off "

sand there, and much sickness and want. They are all eager to be off, and many are taking oxen, some horses, but mules are the best, though they are scarce and high; so they take such stock as comes to hand. Many, no doubt, will be left on the plains, by their teams giving out. Much sickness and suffering will, of

course, result from this and other causes. " As ever yours, most truly,

" Grorce W, Reap "

Mr. Wise's letter, written a few days later than the above, and also published in a local Pennsylvania newspaper, explains-in greater detail the formation and equipment of the Company. His letter follows.

"Independence, April 20, 1850

"Dear Father

"You want to know how we are getting along. Well I think no company has ever progressed more smoothly and agreeably than ours, nor do I think our equal, as a company, could be scared up every day. We have not had a single quarrel among ourselves or with anyone else, since we left home. The most of

[9]

A Pioneer Of 1850

us have had a little spell of sickness, which lasted from 12 to 24 hours with each. I could not describe our journey while on the river, therefore, I will not attempt it.— When we left Pittsburg, we intended to pack across the plains, and at St. Louis, bought pack saddles and riding saddles for the purpose. We also laid in our provisions there, consisting of 1920 Ibs. of sea bread, 300 lbs. of hams; 200 lbs. of middlings; 500 lbs. of parched corn meal, 200 lbs. of rice; 300 lbs. of dried beef, with a suitable supply of sugar, tea and chocolate, etc. But since our arrival here, we have changed our notion, and have determined to take wagons, light ones, and put four mules to each. We think we can go through much easier, if not quite so soon, in this way. We all have our wagons and mules bought. James Burson, James French, James Dunn and myself have our wagon, with six mules and one pony. Our wagon, when rigged out, cost us ninety-eight dollars, and our mules and pony five hundred and six dollars more. The wagon, mules and horses, of each mess or sub-company (consisting of 4 persons,) is common stock with them, and not with the whole company.

"'The weather here has been wet and cold for the

[10]

Before The "Jump-Off "

last ten days. We had intended to have left town last Tuesday and encamp about nine miles distant, but it rained all that day and the next, so that we could not get off. Thursday morning being still wet, but not raining, some of the boys thought they must go; so they geared up four teams and left. The others then thought best to wait for more favorable weather. My team, S. B. Wise's, G. W. Read's and Isaac White's went out on Thursday; and Wm. Black's, John Holsworth's and John Ross' on the day following; S. B. Wise, Asa Morris, Thomas Weaver, and myself are still in Independence, but intend leaving to-morrow. We have been trying to sell a portion of our pack saddles here, but the people will not buy them or trade us anything for them.— They are real skinners in this place.

"We expect to leave the encampment on the 25th of this month, and will take feed with us sufficient for our stock for 20 days, by that time, we have no doubt, the grass will be sufficient for them, and then we can go ahead... .

"T think we will stand our trip well. I have told you we are four to a team in travelling, but when we stop to eat or encamp for the night, we double our

[11]

A Pioneer Of 17850

company. We are not allowed to take more than one thousand pounds in one wagon, 800 lbs. of provisions and 200 Ibs. of clothing. Each team will have three extra mules, or horses, so that there will be but one man in each wagon.

"There is a rumor here —and-that a pretty strong one, too — that gold has been found on Caw* river about 200 miles from this place. Some have started for this new gold region from here, but, as yet, we do not know how true the accounts are.

" Below is the names of the individuals, composing our respective sub-companies, with the number of mules etc., to each.

" Wagon No. 1.— Geo. W. Read, Captain and Surgeon, Charles Meegan, Secretary,' George Sharpnack, Barney Neal, Marselis Strowman, Cook; with 6 mules and 1 horse.

" Wagon No. 2. —S. B. Wise, Morgan R. Wise, Thomas Weaver, Morgan W. Zellars, Cook; 6 mules and 1 horse.

1 Caw, or Kansas, River. Mr. Meegan, attacked by cholera before the temporary camp

was broken, sold his outfit to the Company and returned to his home. See Diary, May 4.

[12]

Before The "Jump-Off"

" Wagon No. 3. — James Burson, James French, S. U. Wise, and James Dunn, Cook; with 6 mules and a pony worth $100; he can out-pace Greene County.

"Wagon No. 4.— Lewis Shatterly, Wm. Shatterly, Isaac White, and Benjamin Con, Cook; with 5 mules and one horse. White is from Waynesburg and Con from Millsborough.

" Wagon No. 5. — John Ross, Thomas Ross, Isaac Lewis, and Uriah Mitchner, Cook; with 6 mules and one horse.

" Wagon No. 6. — Asa Morris, James Roseberry, Franklin J. Grey, and Wm. Black, Cook; with 6 mules.

" Wagon No. 7.— John Houlsworth, Dr. John Clark, Hiram Brown, and James Riley, Cook; with six mules and one horse. Brown is from Virginia.

"J remain yours affectionately,

foe ey Ise

ice

The Oregon-California Trail

The Oregon-California Trail

4) N accordance with their expectations, the Company broke camp and left their temporary quarters near Independence 4 on the first day of May, 1850. The initial day's journey, although short, was felt by all to

mark the actual inception of their long-planned enterprise. The first entry in my father's book was made on that day; thence until their arrival in California, his diary gives a daily record of the expedition.

Wednesday, May Ist, 1850

We all started out from Col. Grant's. A fine old Kentuckian. He lives 9 miles south of the town of Independence, Jackson Co., Mo. We had been camping out there two weeks before starting. Drove 9 miles. Crossed Big Blue, all over safely. Encamped three o'clock. Took supper, and returned, accompanied by James Burson, to see one of our mess who was left behind sick with Cholera — Charles Meegan,

Live

A Pioneer Of 1850

Secretary of our company. Remained with him two nights. Remained at our camp until 11 o'clock 20nd of May.

Thursday, May 2ond.

Left camp at 11 o'clock, travelled 12 miles; most of the way it rained very briskly. Camped where there was no wood, took a cold supper, and a more dreary and unpleasant evening could not be imagined. As far as you could see, on all sides, it was one expanse of prairie. Fed, and picketed out our stock, and all the men but myself, James Burson, Barny Neel and Col. John Ross, who were on guard, retired to bed and slept soundly. We were up until half after 12 o'clock. It rained part of the time furiously. We all felt that we had seen the tracks at least of the Elephant. I retired to our waggon and slept soundly, until next morning, when I was awakened by the rain falling on my face. All up and busy, preparing breakfast, feeding, gearing, etc., etc.

Friday, May 3rd. . We started out this morning at 9 o'clock. Cold and windy. Roads bad. Drove 15 miles. Mules much fa-

[18 ]

The Oregon-California Trail

tigued. Encamped on a very pretty stream, called by the, to me, familiar name of Bull creek, having lived on a beautiful little stream of the same name in Ohio for 12 years. A part of my life marked by many incidents which left indelible impressions on my mind, most of them of an unpleasant character. We had wood and water in abundance at our camp tonight. Many waggons encamped around us.

Saturday, May 4"

We started. out 9 o'clock this morning, weather clear and pleasant. Crossed Bull creek, a bad ford, without accident. All our road today was bad. Draught hard. Came to the banks of the most beautiful little

stream called Walkaroushee,' an Indian name. One of

? A tributary of the Kansas River, crossed by the Oregon Trail a few miles south of the present town of Lawrence, Kansas. Richardson (" Beyond the Mississippi," Hartford, 1869, pp. 36-37) says: " One night in 1849, when this was unknown Indian territory, a party of overland emigrants for California chanced to camp near the Kansas river. One, Charles Robinson of Massachusetts, was deeply impressed with the beauty of the spot. The next morning the emigrants pressed on. They made scores of camps thereafter, on prairie slopes, in green valleys, among mountain glens, and by singing streams. They had the pleasure and peril, the suffering and adventure of all that Early Migration... . When the goal was reached, Robinson took part in the most stir-

[19]

A Pioneer Of 1850

the largest streams we have yet come to, with high banks and bad roads into, and up from. We waited sometime for other teams which were ahead of us to cross. These teams all double-teamed. Our teams all crossed safely without doubling, and without once stalling. We all worked like steeds; pushed up the banks. This is a beautiful stream, with shallow crossing and good bottom. After all had landed safely over and had just made a start, one of our waggons met with a serious accident — which being our first one made us look wild. James Dunn broke his waggon tongue. All teams halted a few minutes, until a number volunteered to repair, when Wm. Black and

ring scenes of California. . . . Robinson returned to his New England home; but . . . the restlessness born of border life, made him one of the earliest emigrants to Kansas. Through all the years, that green prairie by the softly-flowing river, had been photographed in his memory. Thither he led his company of pioneers, and there they founded the first town in Kansas. Five miles south ran the little Waukarusa. Pleased with the name, they gave it to their nascent city. Their first Herald of Freedom |this was a Free Soil colony, afterwards to suffer at the hands of Southern sympathizers] . . . bears date ' Waukarusa, Kansas Territory, October 21, 1854." . . . On reflection, the settlers decided not to perpetuate the story [Indian legend of Waukarusa], and changed the name of their town to Lawrence, in honor of one of its most generous patrons, Amos Lawrence of Boston."

[20]

The Oregon-California Trail

myself went on to select a camping ground, which we did about half mile from the ford, in the edge of the Prairie. We have all had supper. Some are fishing, some cooking, others shooting, repairing waggon tongue, etc., etc. ] am seated in our waggon noting some of the occurrences of the day. We left Mr. Meegan at Col. Grant's. He sold his outfit to the company and will, as soon as able, return home. I advised him to do so, for this reason, that I feared he would not be able to stand the hardships of the trip, and thought it best.and most advisable for him to return to his family. Three of our company, Mr. Asa Morris, old and young Mr. Satterly, have the mumps. The old man is sixty years old. The evening is pleasant, and many encamped around us, the same as last night. I shall lay my pencil aside until the incidents of another day furnish more material, to note with the same object — future reference and satisfaction.

Sunday, May Sth.

We are laying to today, but I cannot say from Religious scruples, as most of our boys are engaged at some unlawful work, repairing waggons, fishing, hunting, etc., etc. This is a beautiful day. We caught

[21]

Ey mee!

A PIONEER OF 1850 some very fine fish. All in good spirits. Many wag-

gons, both oxen and mules, passed us.

Monday, May 6"

All hands up early. Started out half past seven. Had some very bad road. All the teams got on finely today. Travelled 22 miles. We passed some of the most beautiful scenery today, I ever beheld. What an extended and splendid country is this far west! Millions of acres rich, beyond conception, and capable of supporting millions of happy men, women and children. Who can foretell the future greatness and wealth of this country? I am writing in our waggon. It is raining. Oh! such a gloomy night. The guard is out for the night. I must close this chapter. Travelled 22 miles today.

Dunbar, of. cit., p. 1190, states that it was "a long accepted belief that the region now occupied by Oklahoma, Kansas, Nebraska, the Dakotas, western 'Texas and nearly all the rest of the country eastward of the Rocky Mountains for a distance of several hundred miles was an arid and useless part of the earth, uninhabitable by white men. This part of the country eventually appeared on the maps of the school geographies as the ' Great American Desert.' The extensive territory to which that mistaken name was first given gradually shrunk in size on the maps, but obstinately refused to entirely disappear until after the year 1870."

[22]

The Oregon-California Trail

Tuesday, May 7"

This was one of the most gloomy and horrible mornings I ever experienced; when I awoke and looked out, it was raining and snowing, at the same time. Most of the men remained in their tents and waggons until a late hour. A little before 8 o'clock it ceased raining, and in one hour was quite pleasant. The sun came out and the day proved to be one of the most growing days since the season of 1850 dawned upon the masque of time. All hitched up and moved off in good style, between 11 and 12 o'clock. Found the roads slippery, in many places very muddy. The road was covered with the emigrants' waggons. We travelled 14 miles today. Camped on the banks of a beautiful little stream called Found some grass, plenty of wood and water. We design making an early start in the morning, to get to and cross Caw river if possible. The guards are out, the evening is clear, all well. We are now fairly on our long and eventful journey. Will we all reach our destined point? Will our company pass along in peace and harmony? I hope, I think, they will. 14 miles today.

[23]

A Pioneer Of 1850

Wens., 8"

We made an early start this morning, wishing to get to, and if possible, pass Caw or Kansas river. After ten miles' hard driving, over a much harder road, we came to the banks of the river. Found but few waggons waiting. We forded our mules, and took our waggons over in the boats.* All got over; passed over safely, and we breathed much easier, when we were all safely landed on the western bank of the Caw river. We drove one mile and encamped on the banks of a very pretty stream. Our camp is one of the best we have had yet. All hands in good spirits. 104 miles.

Thurs., May 9"

We left camp this morning at 8 o'clock. Passed several bad fords. Travelled up the Caw river all day. Passed the Missionary Station about one o'clock.'

1 J.e., ferryboats. This ford was near the site of the present city of Topeka. See Parrish, " The Great Plains," Chicago, 1907, Deehooe

2 Webster, "The Gold Seekers of '49" [personal narrative], Manchester, N. H., 1917, p. 42, says, just after leaving Caw River ferry: " Wednesday, June 6. We leave camp at 12 o'clock and travel 18 miles. We passed a Catholic mission erected for the purpose of Christianizing the Indian tribes and converting them to the Catholic religion. Indian settlements are quite numerous

here." [ 24 ]

The Oregon-California Trail

Conversed with the Priest. I took him to be a German. We made an effort to trade horses but I found him a little too hard. We saw here a large collection of the Potawatamie warriors, assembled to have a war dance over two scalps of their enemies the Pawnees, a tribe which is situated on the Platte. They cook and eat the feet, hands and heart of their slain. We came up just as they were dispersing. They were a savage looking company. We drove 6 miles from the station and put up in an extended bottom of the Caw. Travelled 154 miles.

Friday, May 10"

This morning had the appearance of, and promised, a very rainy day. But the day being wet, or the morning I should have said, was of little consequence, contrasted with our bad fortune. The teams were all rigged out and had all left the camp but one. Just before this one was to make a move, the mules became frightened, ran around and before they could be checked broke an axle close to the wheel. This was all things considered one of the most serious accidents that could have befallen us. The teams that had pushed out drove one mile, pitched tents, and re-

E25

A Pioneer Of 1850

mained all day. The men who were acquainted with the use of tools all set about the matter in earnest, and did so well that this evening we drove the broken waggon into camp with a much better axle than the one which broke. We all feel much elated with the success of the gentlemen who repaired the break. We now feel assured and confident that we can repair almost any breakdown with which we may meet. Two men sick, James Burson and Asa Morris, the last with ague, the first quite unwell but disease not certainly known yet. Both better this evening. The roads covered with emigrants' teams. I suppose not less than one hundred waggons passed us today. No grass yet. I have serious fears in regard to grass. Our animals must suffer unless the weather should change for the better. We are all in good spirits this evening.

Sat., May 11"

All hands up early. Morning fine. Teams all moved out at 8 o'clock. Moved on briskly. Crossed a fine stream called Vermillion. I supposed this creek well adapted to or for running machinery. We passed a number of ox teams. All appear to be pushing on as

[ 26 ]

The Oregon-California Trail

rapidly as possible. No doubt some teams will soon fag. We are travelling up the Kansas river yet, but left it some distance today. The bottoms of this river are miles wide, and beautiful beyond description. Our road today was much better than yesterday, with the exception of some bad chuck holes. 23 miles today.

Sunday, May 12" 1850

This is a beautiful morning. We were all up early. Moved out of camp half past six. Found the road much better than we have seen. We passed many teams today. Crossed one very fine stream today. Had to let our waggons down the banks with ropes. All passed over safely. Found grass better today. Company appear to be passing along very harmoniously. Mr. Burson, our sick mate, is better. Mr. Morris also better. Thomas Ross quite unwell. Was badly kicked this morning by a mule. Came 31 miles today.

Monday, May 13"

We were all up early. All hands busy. Started out half past seven. Had a very pleasant day. Passed the big Blue. A very beautiful stream, water clear and rapid. We were very fortunate in passing it at low

[27 ]

A Pioneer Of 1850

water. We all passed it safely. We came into the St. Joseph road today. I think it better than the Independence road. From the most reliable information I can obtain, there must be one thousand waggons on the road from here to St. Jo.* We are encamped to-

1 Delano, " Life on the Plains and Among the Diggings," etc., Auburn and Buffalo, 1854; several later editions. Delano crossed the plains in 49. On page 46, he gives us a picture of the St. Joe road, at about this point, as it appeared to him after some days' wandering on the prairie, lost, with his companions, while searching for a short cut: " For miles, to the extent of vision, an animated mass of beings broke upon our view. Long trains of wagons with their white covers were moving slowly along, a multitude of horsemen were prancing on the road, companies of men were traveling on foot, and although the scene was not a gorgeous one, yet the display of banners from many wagons, and the multitude of armed men, looked as if a mighty army was on its march."

Stansbury (" Exploration and Survey of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah, Including a Reconnoissance of a New Route Through the Rocky Mountains," Washington, 1853) traveled this road in June, 1849. On page 24, he says: "We have been in company with multitudes of emigrants the whole day. The road has been lined to a long extent with their wagons, whose white covers, glittering in the sunlight, resembled, at a distance, ships upon the ocean."

Only seven years before Delano and Stansbury, and eight years before our travelers, Frémont, passing over these plains on his first exploring expedition, spoke (09. cit., pp. 10, 12, 14) of " the ocean of the prairie, which, we were told, stretched without interruption almost to the base of the Rocky mountains," and found this sea so lonely, so empty of human contact, that a few days later

[28 ]

The Oregon-California Trail

night three miles from the intersection of the Independence and St. Jo roads. We desire to make the trip to Fort Kearney as soon as we can. Report says there are good grass and water on the Platte river. Neither are good here. I suppose there are thousands on their way to California by the way of the plains. I have not seen or heard of one death among the emigrants this season. I think so far the health is very good on the route. Last year at this date many were attacked with Cholera, along where we now are, and many died of the same. I hope it may not break out this season. We are now travelling on the dividing ridge between the Kansas and Missouri rivers. Mr. Burson, who was sick, is better, and I hope will soon be perfectly restored. Mr. Ross I think some better. Came 25 miles today.

he remarked: " A party of emigrants to the Columbia river, under the charge of Dr. White, an agent of the Government in Oregon Territory, were about three weeks in advance of us. . . . Travelling on the fresh traces of the Oregon emigrants relieves a little the loneliness of the road; and tonight, after a march of twentytwo miles, we halted on a small creek, which had been one of their encampments . . . June 22 [the next day]... . Our midday halt was at Wyeth's creek. . . . Here a pack of cards, lying loose on the grass, marked an encampment of our Oregon emi-

[ 29 ]

The Oregon-California Trail

this lesson will have a happy effect, by way of making all emigrants more careful with their Arms. Report says no grass ahead. I hope it is incorrect. We met several men returning today. They have seen the Elephant, and not two hundred miles out. They look badly, and will not converse. I pity them. How we may eventually succeed time alone can and will de-

cide. Came 20 miles today.

Wens., May 15"

We were all ready, and left our encampment at 7 o'clock. The morning is warm and clear. We met 5 men returning today. They give unfavorable reports of grass ahead. We have expected to cross Blue all day yesterday and today, and report puts it 20 miles ahead yet. We hope to make it tomorrow. The grass is short tonight. The country continues undulating or rolling, with some timber interspersed this afternoon. The road today has been the best I have ever seen but more hilly than we have had it yet. Soil of the best quality. Teams not so numerous as yesterday. But few passed us today. Our sick still improving. Dr. Clark not well this evening. I hope nothing serious. We are all in good spirits so far. I feel confi-

[31]

A Pioneer Of 1850

dent we will all get through. Or I at least hope we will. I shall do all in my power to preserve good order, good feelings and harmony in the company.

We have come 20 miles today.

Thurs., May 16"

We left our encampment this morning at 7 o'clock. No water for our mules. Drove six miles before we found water. This day is very windy, dusty and clear. We passed several places where water in considerable amounts passes in some parts of the season but we found but little and that of a very inferior quality. We have been driving for three days expecting to come to little Blue. A stream we fear will all the time be ahead. We determined to drive late and make Blue if possible. We had the pleasure to come to the stream at 5 o'clock, after a hard day's drive, found it a very pleasant stream. Water clear but rather warm for drinking; yet we relished it very well, even considering we were very fortunate in finding as good. I find by reference to the travels of each day since we came into the St. Joseph road, that Blue is 90 miles from the intersection of the two roads. All going on finely,

[32]

The Oregon-California Trail

but grass is poor, and we fear, will continue so. Came 22 miles today.

Fri., May 17"

We left camp this morning at half past 7. Travelled up the little Blue. Had fine roads through wide and beautiful bottoms. Grass short, but we hope to find it better on the Platte. We suppose we are not more than two to three days' drive from the waters of that river. Camped early today, in the bottom of Blue, and found a fine spring. Enjoyed the luxury of one more drink of spring water. It is just sundown. I am seated in our waggon marking some of the occurrences of the day. We have supped. Our cook, Mr. Strowman, made some very fine bread. We all ate hearty. I think the trip will be of service to us all. Make us more competent to appreciate the pleasures of home. We are getting on finely. The road is lined with emigrants, all stout fine healthy looking men, such as can stand the hardships of this trip and of a miner's life after they arrive at the Gold region. They all seem to be buoyant with hope. We go sixteen miles without wood or water, so say our guides, tomorrow.

[ 33]

A Pioneer Of 1850

We will see. Came 18 miles today. Wonder what our friends are doing at home this beautiful evening.

Sat., May 18" 1850

We were all up early for a start, but it was discovered that a mule of Black's was lost. One hour's search found the lost animal. We left camp at 8. Drove on briskly. Had one of the best roads today we have had yet. Still travelling up little Blue and have now come forty miles since we came to the waters of this stream. I cannot say, how much farther we will go on it. Our encampment tonight is in the bottom of Blue. Grass moderately good, but short for the season. Continues very dry, no rain for two weeks. Ground very dry. Some fears that grass will fail should dry weather continue. I suppose the number of emigrants to be much greater than that of any preceding year. Many must suffer. Our company may. Cannot tell. We are all in good spirits, and all feel confident of getting safely to our destined point. The future alone can, and will, develope and decide these points. We saw 4 Indians today, of the Pawnee tribe,' being the first

1 Catlin, Geo., "Illustrations of the Manners, Customs, and Condition of the North American Indians: in a Series of Letters

[34]

The Oregon-California Trail

we have seen of this tribe. They, were savage looking men. Are treacherous and savage. Appeared very friendly. All they wished was Tobacco and some other things, such as knives. We have been on their land

and Notes Written during Eight Years of Travel and Adventure among the Wildest and Most Remarkable Tribes now Existing," etc., seventh edition, 2 vols., London, 1848, v. II, pp. 24-25: "The Pawnees are a very powerful and warlike nation, living on the river Platte, about one hundred miles from its junction with the Missouri; laying claim to, and exercising sway over, the whole country, from its mouth to the base of the Rocky Mountains.

"The present number of this tribe is ten or twelve thousand; about one half the number they had in 1832, when that most appalling disease, the small-pox, was accidentally introduced amongst them by the Fur Traders, and whiskey sellers; when ten thousand (or more) of them perished in the course of a few months. .. .

"The destructive ravages of this most fatal disease amongst these poor people, who know of no specific for it, is beyond the knowledge, and almost beyond the belief, of the civilized world. Terror and dismay are carried with it; and awful despair, in the midst of which they plunge into the river, when in the highest state of fever, and die in a moment; or dash themselves from precipices; or plunge their knives to their hearts, to rid themselves from the pangs of slow and disgusting death,

"Amongst the formidable tribe of Pawnees, the Fur Traders are yet doing some business; but, from what I can learn, the Indians are dealing with some considerable distrust, with a people who introduced so fatal a calamity amongst them, to which one half of their tribe have fallen victims. The Traders made their richest harvest amongst these people, before this disease broke out;

[35]

A Pioneer Of 1850

some distance. Fear them more than any of the red men we will come in contact with on our journey. They came close to our camp last night. The guard heard their horses, and also heard them talk, but they made no hostile demonstration. They are noted cowards, but if they get you in their power, your situation is critical. I suppose ten men well armed could drive five hundred of them. We have not lost one animal, or been annoyed by them in any, way yet. All in health. Our mess getting on pleasantly. Came 22 miles today. Two months since we left home, today. Often think of friends.

Sunday morning, May 19" 1850 I am seated in our waggon this Sabbath morning. Mr. Strowman is getting breakfast. Geo. Sharpnack

and since it subsided, quite a number of their lives have paid the forfeit, according to the Indian laws of retribution.*

"Since the above was written, I have had the very great pleasure of reading the notes of the Honourable Charles A. Murray (who was for several months a guest amongst the Pawnees). . . . Mr. Murray's account of the Pawnees, so far as he saw them, is without doubt drawn with great fidelity, and he makes them out a pretty bad set of fellows. As I have before mentioned, there is probably not another tribe on the Continent, that has been more abused and incensed by the system of trade, and moneymaking, than the Pawnees."

The Oregon-California Trail

and Barney Neel are sleeping in the tent. I never sawa more beautiful morning. The birds are singing. Yes I should say " are discoursing the most eloquent music." I have never listened to a more pleasing, soothing song. The country seems and appears to me like an old settled one. It always seems more like home to me along a stream and Blue here is one of the most delightful creeks on this continent, water clear and sweet. We will lay. by today, let our animals rest, air our loads, etc., etc. Sunday night. We unloaded today, coupled our waggon shorter, cleaned out, loaded up in fine style. The day was quite warm, high wind. Much annoyed with dust. 170 waggons passed us. Some mules. Horses. Oxen. Some packing on mules and horses, and some on their backs. Three men and a boy, 12 years old, passed our camp this morning, with some provisions on their backs. It looked hard. 4 men are encamped close to us, going through the same way. We think it hard going as we do, but oh, how much more laborious to make the trip on foot and carry all your provisions! I do hope they may succeed in getting some of the needful to supply their wants hereafter. I am seated in our waggon pencilling. The evening is stormy, raining hard, blowing quite a gale.

A Pioneer Of 1850

We have been wishing for rain for some days, so we must submit to some inconvenience, for the benefit we anticipate from the effect of the rain on the grass. All well this evening. We have come three hundred miles from Independence, laid by three days since the 20nd of May, 1850. We will get to Fort Kearney Thursday, I suppose. Our mules appear full tonight.

Monday, 20" 1850

This is one of the most growing mornings we have had since we left home. The shower last evening revived the vegetation very much. We left camp at seven o'clock, drove up Blue 5 miles, which makes 45 miles we travelled up little Blue. Some accounts said it was sixty, some eighty, etc., etc. We then left that stream, but not knowing that we had far to go without water, we did not fill our water vessels. We drove 25 miles without water ourselves and but once for the mules. The road today was very good. We arrived on the banks of Platte river after dusk, all glad to see this stream. River high. Many, emigrants encamped in the bottom around us tonight. The evening is dark, and cloudy. Threatens rain. Wind high. Came

[38]

THE OREGON-CALIFORNIA TRAIL 35 miles today. I am sleepy and dull. Shall add no

more tonight.

Tues., May 21"

This morning was wet and cool. We had much difficulty in getting some breakfast. Had to cross to an Island of the river [presumably for wood]. Left camp at 8 o'clock. I went on, as soon as the waggons were all started, to the fort [Kearney ], about 14 miles from our encampment. This fort stands in the Platte bottom, half mile from the river. Consists of three frame buildings, several outhouses, stables, etc., etc., built of sods cut from the Prairie. The situation is a charming one. One day it will be a place of note. There are three companies of regular soldiers stationed here. Some goods for sale, at two or four prices. I remained a few minutes and pushed on to look for a camping site which found three miles above. We travelled 17 miles today.

Wens., May 220nd, 1850

Owing to the continuance of the rain until a late hour this morning, we did not start as early as usual. 9 o'clock all the waggons just started. We found the

[39]

A Pioneer Of 1850

road very muddy, draught hard for several miles, but the wind and sun soon dried up the roads, and the afternoon proved a pleasant one. We travelled all day close to the river, which is very wide but shallow, full of sandbars. They say it can be forded easily at common stages. Should not like to try it. The road today shows plainly the marks of last year's travel. It was wet and the waggons cut in. Many animals were killed here last season. I hope it will continue dry this season. If it does not, the teams will no doubt many~of them fail. We came into camp at six, and soon had our animals out. Supper over, so goes the time. We are getting on finely; if the weather only continues dry, we will get on, I have no doubt. Grass poor, very. Travelled 184 miles today.

Thurs., May 23"

This morning is, as is not unusual in this country, very blustery. I fear it will rain today — hope it may not. We must prepare to start. I will add some more this evening to this day's account if all goes well with me. — In camp on the banks of the Platte. Nothing of importance occurred today. We passed Plum creek about two o'clock. No running water in it. Three hun-

[40]

The Oregon-California Trail

dred and ten miles to Fort Laramie from this creek. Solomon Wise was attacked today with cramp colic. Was poorly all day. Better this evening. Fine grass for our mules. Came 23 miles today.

Fri., May 24" 1850

Rolled out from camp at 7 o'clock. Morning pleasant, roads good. Mr. Wise much better. After our train had all passed out, I being afoot, walked up the bank of the stream on which our camp lay, where I discovered two graves, one of an infant ten months old. Its mother had inscribed some impressive lines on the board which marked its resting place. Close by its side lay a man, Doctor Lowes from St. Louis City. Both died last season. The child 28" May, the other June 3rd, 1849. I was deeply affected by the chain of reflections caused by observing these graves far, far, beyond the bounds of civilization, it being 400 miles from Independence, to where they lay in their uncofined graves. This season so far is much more healthy than last was. Noon. Sitting in our waggon, all the animals grazing. I shall add no more now but shall take a small snooze. — We put up late tonight. Nothing of any note occurred on our way today. Still

[41]

A Pioneer Of 1850

travelling up the Platte river. Bottoms continue wide. Road becoming very monotonous. A sameness is manifest in the scenery since we left the frontier. Not so many emigrants in sight today. We saw an Antelope in the distance today. We killed no game yet. Disaffection manifested itself in our ranks today. The mess composed of B. Conn, Isaac White and the two Mr. Shatterlies from what I can learn have not been getting on smoothly. Today Mr. Conn came to me requesting a separation of stock, outfit, etc., etc. I thought on the matter until evening when the company assembled before the waggon of the above named mess. I then and there discharged the painful duty of speaking a few words by way of reprimand to the disaffected mess. I reminded them of the contract they had entered into between themselves at the start, that they were bound by the laws of honor, and as they are all professors of Religion by that also, to pursue a different course, to be more careful in their intercourse with each other. Mentioned the disgrace which must always hereafter be attached to men making the professions they made and be guilty of the conduct they had been. They all promised to do better for the future. With this promise we all separated for

[42]

Iprisdarg 1dag if Wg Yotays V WOLg cc SAQLL UDIPUT (vuvoisaie y vidvi0 [tu y ) ay1 fo hsomtHy ,, See puv Nauuay Jy molg HHAOTHLNV GCGHNUOH-ONOUd fa EO fa NM Wid

e

The Oregon-California Trail

the night. I do most sincerely hope that good may result from all we have done. May peace dwell in our midst, harmony reign and abide with us, and all of us arrive safely at our destined port. May the necessity never again occur requiring the adoption of such measures as were in the case above cited.*

We travelled 27 miles today. Roads good.

Contemporaneous records contain many references to dissensions among the emigrants, often caused by insignificant or trifling matters, and sometimes carried so far as to result in suicide or murder. Overland travel in those years, as regards physical hardship and nervous tension, bears a marked resemblance to life at the front in time of war — and, similarly, unexpected reactions sometimes occurred. In time of war, however, some form of government obtains, wherever one may be. In the war sector, the army rules and behind the lines, civilian authority is potent. On the plains at that time, however, no government was known. Hence every emigrant carried his rifle, and every company drew up its rules of conduct and agreed to abide by them.

Hittell, of. cit., v. 3, p. 234, says: " A criminal might be legally punished or held for punishment on shipboard; but it was very different on the plains. . . . Nearly every overland train there fore was an organized company with a captain or leader chosen as a nominal head and a code of general regulations for train government and mutual safety. . . . The great majority of trains, so organized before starting, divided or broke up entirely before reaching the South Pass."

The best in men came out, and the worst. Delano (09. cit., p- 63) says: " We subsequently found the road lined with cast-off articles, piles of bacon, flour, wagons, groceries, clothing, and various other articles, which had been left, and the waste and de-

[ 43 ]

A Pioneer Of 1850

Sat., May 25, 1850

This morning damp and cool. Wind high. Annoyed by the dust today very much. Turned out at noon two hours for the animals to graze. The bottoms of the

river are not so wide. Bluffs high, cut by deep ravines.

struction of property was enormous. In this the selfish nature of man was plainly exhibited. In many instances the property thus left was rendered useless. We afterwards found sugar on which turpentine had been poured, flour in which salt and dirt had been thrown, and wagons broken to pieces, or partially burned, clothes torn to pieces, so that they could not be worn, and a wanton waste made of valuable property, simply because the owners could not use it.themselves, and were determined that nobody else should. There were occasionally honorable exceptions. The wagons were left unharmed by the road side; the bacon, flour and sugar were nicely heaped up, with a card, directed to any one who stood in need, to use freely in welcome."

Bryant ("' What I Saw in California," etc., New York, 1848, p. 68) gives a ludicrous instance of this quarrelsome spirit: '' There has been, for several days, a very troublesome dispute between two Oregon emigrants, partners for the journey, one owning the wagon and the other the oxen. The claimant of the oxen insists upon his right to take them from the wagon. The proprietor of the wagon denies this right. The difference was brought to a crisis on the road to-day, by a personal rencounter produced by an attempt of the ox claimant to take the oxen from the wagon, and thus to leave it to move along by the best mode that could be invented for such an exigency. If a man is predisposed to be quarrelsome, obstinate, or selfish, from his natural constitution, these repulsive traits are certain to be developed on a journey over the plains. The trip is a sort of magic mirror, and exposes every man's qualities of heart connected with it, vicious or amiable."

L 44 ]

The Oregon-California Trail

I saw Cedar timber today for the first time. The river today is dotted with countless Islands. Road not so good today. We have a beautiful situation for our camp tonight. All the company, have had supper. We have a guest tonight, from old Washington Co., Pa., Mr. Vanvorice. He is packing through. Some of our men saw some Indians today. So far we have not been molested by them in the least. Have no fears of them. Yet they may give us much trouble. We have come 20

miles today.

Sunday, May 26" 1850

We all slept rather late this morning, but stirred around briskly after getting up. Most beautiful morning. Had the most pleasant camping spot we have had yet, last night. Good grass. An Antelope passed our camp this morning. Some of our men fired at it but owing to the distance and speed of it none hit it. We moved on briskly this morning but had no water for mules since last evening. After passing on some ten miles, I mounted on old Mr. Shatterly's noble steed and rode on to find water and grass to camp out on for a noon spell. But I pushed on and on, and still found no water. After I had gone I suppose 7 miles,

[45]

A Pioneer Of 1850

I found a situation, half mile from the road. The teams drove into camp at two o'clock after a hard forenoon's drive. Our animals have good grass and plenty of water. We have, so I was told today, twentyfive miles without wood or water. We wish to make the drive tomorrow. We will not be close to the river in that distance. The latter end of our-travel today, we found the land more elevated but no grass. Looked dry and parched. The bluffs are high, with little vegetation. Came 17 miles today. Our mules were on the

verge of a stampede this evening.

Mon. May 27" 1850

We had a fine start this morning. Drove on briskly until 12". Put the animals out to graze. Remained hour and half. Again took the track. Pushed on. Most of the road very good. Afternoon very cool. Encamped in the bottom of Platte. No timber on our side of the river. All well. The company getting on very peaceably and harmoniously. I hope this state of affairs may, continue during our journey. How pleasant, oh! how pleasant, to be on terms of friendship with all. We are 23 miles nearer our journey's end this evening than we were this morning.

The Oregon-California Trail

Tues., 28" May, 1850

Left camp this morning at 7". Very pleasant. Road good, Still travelling up the Platte. The river appears much smaller here, than when we first came to it. We are now on the south fork. Expect to cross tomorrow. The country today appears more barren than it did yesterday. No timber on our side of the river. We cook with Buffalo chips. Find them a good substitute for wood. We had quite a luxury this evening for supper. Some of our men assisted to kill an Antelope. Our company got the one half of it. Wehad part of the liver which we relished very much. This was the first wild meat we have had. Hope it will not be the last.* Our camp tonight is on the immediate bank of

Frémont, of. cit., in his expedition of 1842, like many other explorers of the plains, found game in abundance soon after leaving the frontier. By the time he reached Big Vermilion and Big Blue Rivers, his camp feasted on deer, and "' antelope were seen running over the hills." Game became increasingly plentiful, and soon herds of elk, antelope and deer formed part of the vista. Several days later, while traveling up the valley of the Platte, a short distance before Brady's Island was reached, they met the bison. On pages 18-19, Frémont says: " A few miles brought us into the midst of the buffalo, swarming in immense numbers over the plains, where they had left scarcely a blade of grass standing. . . . In the sight of such a mass of life, the traveller feels a

strange emotion of grandeur. We had heard from a distance a dull and confused murmuring, and, when we came in view of their

[47 ]

A Pioneer Of 1850

the river. The bottom is covered with encampments above and below us, as far as we can see. The evening

is dark and raining. Bids fair for a steady night's rain.

dark masses, there was not one among us who did not feel his heart beat quicker. It was the early part of the day, when the herds are feeding; and every where they were in motion. Here and there a huge old bull was rolling in the grass, and clouds of dust rose in the air from various parts of the bands, each the scene of some obstinate fight. Indians and buffalo make the poetry and life of the prairie, and our camp was full of their exhilaration."

For over a week, the trail was thronged with them. P. 23: . . . Column after column of buffalo came galloping down, making directly to the river. By the time the leading herds had reached the water, the prairie was darkened with the dense masses. Immediately before us, when the bands first came down into the valley, stretched an unbroken line, the head of which was lost among the river hills on the opposite side; and still they poured down from the ridge on our right. From hill to hill, the prairie bottom was certainly not less than two miles wide; and, allowing the animals to be ten feet apart, and only ten in a line, there were already eleven thousand in view. Some idea may thus be formed of their number when they had occupied the whole plain. In a short time they surrounded us on every side; extending for several miles in the rear, and forward as far as the eye could reach; leaving around us, as we advanced, an open space of only two or three hundred yards."

And again, three days later (p. 25): '"' Buffalo absolutely covered the plain on both sides the river, and whenever we ascended the hills, scattered herds gave life to the view in every direction."

Such were the conditions obtaining in 1842. Eight years later, not one buffalo and almost no game of any kind had been seen by our travelers in the same localities and at practically the same

[ 48 ]

ce

ite OmDEOm wn Hh PLATTE AWS IN SO Wighise asoni

"We had to go a mile and a half in the water.

-.. Wedll landed safely, in about one hour

16 took the water."

from the time x

The Oregon-California Trail

All in bed but the guard. One was just at our waggon saying bed time. Ten at night. Came 25 miles today.

Wens., May 29" 1850

Left camp this morning half past seven and drove 11 miles, when we came to the crossing, or ford of the Platte river. Many teams were ahead of us. Turned out our mules to graze. The ford being deep, we deemed it most prudent to raise our loads before crossing. We were all ready by, half past 1 o'clock. Drove to the river. Started across. The ford is a very

time of year. The extermination of wild life and the continual lessening of its range, which seem to be a part of the process of civilization, and which continue even to-day, 'had received a frightful impetus. Such annihilation as that of the American bison is, happily, without parallel. The Encyclopedia Britannica (Thirteenth Edition, 1926, Supplementary v. I, p. 390) estimates that, of the " countless numbers" that formerly swept the plains, less than five thousand captive, and only one hundred wild bison remained in the United States in 1924, and states further (v. IV, p- 12) that "'the annual rate of destruction from 1870 to 1875 [during the construction of the Union Pacific Railroad] has been estimated at 2,500,000 head."

Nordhoff, ' California," New York, 1873, p. 26, describing an overland trip by rail, explains the mysteries of a dining-car — "4 great curiosity in its way," and enumerates the dishes served between Chicago and Omaha. " You may have your choice in the wilderness — eating at the rate of twenty-two miles per hour — of buffalo, elk, antelope, beef-steak, mutton-chops, or grouse."

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A Pioneer Of 1850

bad one, at least one mile wide, from 1 to four feet deep, bottom sandy, draught very hard. Our mules choked down, some of them, and all had a long and very hard pull, but all landed safely without any accident occurring. We all felt much relieved after crossing. We have so far, got on finely. This ford is one hundred and seventy 7 miles from Fort Kearney. We encamped a few rods from the place of crossing. All well and in good spirits. All hands were busy refining loads this evening. Intend making an early start in the morning. Wish to make the other branch of the Platte tomorrow, called the north branch. Came 12 miles today.

Thurs. May, 30" 1850

Left camp early this morning, 6 o'clock. Drove about 15 miles in a northern direction making for the North Platte. The road was the best we have yet had for the distance above stated. We then came to the head of Ash hollow. The descent into the bottom was quite steep, but we got down without any accident occurring. We drove three miles after we struck the bottom, when we struck the North Platte. It was now one o'clock. We turned out to graze, but had but little

[50]

Jaulpog sajwyy hg ednjou mol unoig laMosslin GHG HOS SN Vie eereNT@ INHAWdANVONAH NVIGNI NV

The Oregon-California Trail

grass. Fed some corn. The distance between the two branches is 20 miles, which distance we made this forenoon. We took the track again at three, and travelled on the river bottom six miles. Part of the road being sandy made heavy drawing. Put up this evening in a broad bottom. Grass better than we have yet had. The emigrants encamped around us on all sides. Also - one encampment of Indians, I suppose fifty of the red inhabitants of the woods and wilds of this western world. There were two white men with them, hard looking specimens. One of our men traded a horse for a mule with one of these men. Some of the Indians were fine looking men. One in particular was the best specimen of an Indian I ever saw. In fact, few men are better organized than this man. He was said to be

the chief's son. Came 26 miles.

Friday, May 31" 1850

We had an early start this morning. Found the roads sandy most of the time, waggons run very heavy. The road is lined with emigrants, both before and behind. The horse teams are passing us. I hope they, may hold out, but fear they will not. We passed a number of Wigwams today, I suppose they num-

[51]

A Pioneer Of 1850

bered 30, in one place. The Indians are of the Sioux tribe, quite good looking, for red men. I procured some Buffalo meat from them, and dressed it for supper this evening. I had some curiosity to taste the meat of this wild animal. Found it most delicious indeed. I never ate better. We are getting on finely. Came 22 miles.

Sat., June 1st, 1850

We had a rain storm last night, thunder was terrific, rain-violent. Roads bad this morning. We are now baiting for noon. I am seated in our waggon, writing. I feel some fatigued. Will hold up until evening. — We drove late this afternoon. Came in sight of the Chimney rock. Also the Court house rock, the first about 30 miles from us, the latter six. The Court house rock viewed through the Telescope has a most splendid appearance, is a huge pile of white rock, much resembling in size and shape the state house in Jefferson City, Missouri. I should like very much to "go to see it, but time and other duties will not admit of my doing so. 22 miles.*

1 Bryant, op. cit., p. 99: "Some ten or twelve miles this side of it [Chimney Rock] we also saw an elevated rock, presenting

[52]

The Oregon-California Trail

Sunday, June 2ond, 1850

We all lay late this morning, it being agreed last evening that we would lay over here until noon, today. The morning one of the finest since we left old Pennsylvania. We concluded to shorten our waggon beds and couple our waggons shorter, deeming it of the utmost importance to lighten up as much as possible. All hands commenced. Our camp presented a scene of activity. seldom surpassed amid the active scenes of civilized life. We designed being ready to take the turf by two o'clock, but the task was a greater one than we supposed, and three o'clock came around, and some not ready. We all concluded it was too late

an imposing and symmetrical architectural shape. At this distance its appearance was not unlike that of the capitol at Washington; representing, with great distinctness of outline, a main building, and wings surmounted by domes. This, I believe, has been named by emigrants the ' Court-house.'

" As we approached this large rock, it assumed still more definitely the regular proportions of an artificial structure. At times its white walls and domes would appear in a state of perfect preservation; in other views they appeared partially ruinous, like some vast edifice neglected or deserted, and mouldering and falling under the influence of time." It appeared to Bryant to be from 300 to 500 feet in height, and about a mile in circumfer-

ence,

[53]

A Pioneer Of 1850

in the afternoon to make a very distant point. All agreed to remain in our present encampment until morning. We had for dinner today, prepared by Major Strowman, Buffalo Steak, warm cake, pie, potatoes, sassafras tea, etc., etc. We were all in fine case for dinner, as we had been busily engaged all the forenoon at our waggon. I never ate a meal with better relish. Mr. French, Conn and Sellers on the sick list, but all better this afternoon. I am writing in our waggon, while outside the Elements are at war with each other. Rain and hail are falling in torrents, wind blowing a terrific gale. So ends the day. I hope our waggons may run much lighter in the morning, and all be well and in good spirits at the dawn of another day. We are getting on finely, and I feel some hopes of reaching our destined port by the middle of August. So far we have not had much to complain of. Found the trip much easier than we anticipated. No doubt it will get harder before we get through. The rain has almost ceased. I wonder what our friends are doing in old Pennsylvania this evening. Sharpnack, Neel, Strowman and Riley, have just started to see the court house rock. Mr. Sellers not so well as he was an hour ago. So ends this day.

[54]

The Oregon-California Trail

Monday, June 3d, 1850

All hands left camp this morning in fine spirits. Found the road somewhat muddy. We were in a big crowd all day. The elements threatened a storm for some hours, which came on at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. The rain and hail were so violent that we were compelled to turn off the road and take our mules from the waggon. There was a slight cessation and we started out, but it soon commenced again. I walked half hour in a blowing rain. Our mules were fatigued very much this evening. Put up early. Had good grass and water. After we had most of our evening work done up, 5 of us went to see the chimney rock, which we supposed to be 2 miles distant, but which proved to be three. This is a huge pile of sand standing out from all other peaks of the bluffs. It was no doubt once part of the high bluff standing, I suppose 200 feet from it. The base I suppose to be 250 feet high, upon which stands a spindle or shaft of sand, I suppose 150 feet high. I clambered up as far as I could without danger and carved my name on its side, like many had done before me. This pile of sand (for it is nothing but sand) has been rendered quite hard by hard rains wetting it, and hot sun baking it

[55]

A Pioneer Of 1850

while wet. By this process, being so often repeated, there has been formed a crust quite hard, which has stood the action of the Elements and old Father Time, for centuries upon centuries. But it must eventually crumble, totter, fall. I would suppose not many more years will suffice to remove all traces of the chimney rock. As it now stands it is beyond doubt a great curiosity and one which is viewed with great interest by the passing crowd of emigrants." It was ten

o'clock and quite dark when we came into our camp

1 Washington Irving, "The Rocky Mountains: or Scenes, Incidents, and Adventures in the Far West; Digested from the Journal of Captain B. L. E. Bonneville," etc., 2 vols., Philadelphia, 1837, v. I, p. 45: "' Opposite to the camp at this place, was a singular phenomenon, which is among the curiosities of the country. It is called the chimney. The lower part is a conical mound, rising out of the naked plain; from the summit shoots up a shaft or column, about one hundred and twenty feet in height, from which it derives its name. The height of the whole, according to Captain Bonneville, is a hundred and seventy-five yards. It is composed of indurated clay, with alternate layers of red and white sandstone, and may be seen at the distance of upwards of thirty miles."

Stansbury, of. cit., p. 51: " That the shaft has been very much higher than at present, is evident. . . . It is the opinion of Mr. Bridger that it was reduced to its present height by lightning, or some other sudden catastrophe, as he found it broken on his return from one of his trips to St. Louis, though he had passed it uninjured on his way down."

The Oregon-California Trail

again. I was soon asleep, but was awakened this morning by the rain pelting our tent. I am now writing in the waggon. It continues to rain. My mess mates yet

sleep. Oh! what a gloomy, gloomy morning. 22 miles.

Tues., June 4" 1850

This morning is damp and one of the most unpleasant the emigrant meets with in his trip across these plains. Most of the men are still in their tents sleeping. We are getting on as a company very well, but some dissatisfaction occasionally manifests itself in our ranks. Many, companies are disbanding and breaking up. Will ours follow suit? Time alone can and must decide. I still hope all will come out right. There are many reasons why we should remain together until we get to the point started for, but whether or not these reasons will be considered and allowed the influence they should have, is equally enveloped in uncertainty. If men were disposed to do all in their power for the welfare and best interest of others as well as themselves, all would go on well, but poor selfish human nature appears incapable of such noble deeds. Well, we must all do as well as we can, and hope for the best. Some hard feeling arose between

[57]

A Pioneer Of 1850

some of the members of our company. A meeting was requested, of all the company, for the purpose of explaining, etc., etc. The meeting was half past eight. Mr. S. B. Wise made some remarks to the point, and all censure against any one was removed. Company decided by vote to leave camp at the hour of seven every morning. Left camp_at eleven o'clock. Drove 18 miles. Our camp close to Scott's bluff. Our sick men all better. The scenery is romantic and sublime, around our camp. The bluffs in the distance skirted by small cedars, indented in various places, many high peaks, worn by the rain and wind into various shapes, resembling many of the structures of Architecture.'

1 Ibid., v. 1, pp. 45-46: "On the 21st, they encamped amidst high and beetling cliffs of indurated clay and sandstone, bearing the semblance of towers, castles, churches, and fortified cities. At a distance, it was scarcely possible to persuade oneself that the works of art were not mingled with these fantastic freaks of nature. They have received the name of. Scott's bluffs, from a melancholy circumstance. A number of years since, a party were descending the upper part of the river in canoes, when their frail barks were overturned and all their powder spoiled. Their rifles being thus rendered useless, they were unable to procure food by hunting. . . . After suffering extremely from hunger, they arrived at Laramie's fork . . . about sixty miles above the cliffs just mentioned. Here one of the party, by the name of Scott, was taken ill. . . . They discovered a fresh trail of white men, who had evidently but recently preceded

[58 ]

CHITMAS- EY] RO C.K From a sketch by Frederick Piercy

SCO. sf BUF ES From a sketch by Frederick Piercy

The Oregon-California Trail

The forenoon and part of the afternoon were quite inclement, but the evening has turned out fine. The sun is setting clear, a token of a fine day tomorrow. We are all in fine spirits and good order and humor. 18 miles today.

Wens., June 5" 1850 We left camp at the early hour of six. Travelled briskly all day, left the river for 20 miles. Passed

them. . . . By a forced march they might overtake this party, and thus be able to reach the settlements in safety. . . . Scott, however, was incapable of moving. . . . They determined, therefore, to abandon him to his fate. . . . They succeeded in overtaking the party of which they were in quest, but concealed their faithless desertion of Scott; alleging that he had died of disease.

"On the ensuing summer, these very individuals visiting these parts in company with others, came suddenly upon the bleached bones and grinning scull of a human skeleton, which, by certain signs they recognized for the remains of Scott. This was sixty long miles from the place where they had abandoned him; and it appeared that the wretched man had crawled that immense distance before death put an end to his miseries. The wild and picturesque bluffs in the neighborhood of his lonely grave have ever since bore his name."

Palmer ("' Journal of Travels over the Rocky Mountains, to the Mouth of the Columbia River," etc., Cincinnati, 1847, p. 25) tells a similar story, except that he says that Scott, understanding the hopelessness of the situation, persuaded his companions to leave him, "alone in the wilderness, several miles from this spot [Scott's Bluffs]."

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Scott's Bluffs, also a trading point, kept by a white man. We could not procure any fresh meat at this point. They. keep nothing which the emigrant stands in need of but some Mockasons of an inferior quality. I was called back at noon to see a sick man, who was laboring under the most prominent.symptoms of Cholera. Succeeded in affording relief. We have the best grass tonight we have had yet. Come 30 miles.

Thurs., June 6" 1850

The company are in good spirits. Two of our men are sick, Mr. Zellars and B. Conn. Some better this evening. The road appears more crowded, today, with emigrants than I have seen it since we left Independence. We are now on the north fork of Platte river. It appears deep and rapid. We are within 10 miles of Fort Laramie, and wish to make that point tomorrow. 24 miles. Many of the horse teams are evidently failing rapidly and I fear will not hold up until they pass the Sierra Nevada. Oxen are much the best team for this trip.

1850

We left camp early this morning. Drove ten miles to Fort Laramie. We crossed Laramie fork half mile

FORT LARAMIE From a sketch by Frederick Piercy

TA REAM I Ee PE ALK From a sketch by Frederick Piercy

The Oregon-California Trail

from the fort. Had to raise our waggon beds. The ford was good, bottom solid, the deepest place 34 feet. Crossed without accident. Moved on to the fort, which we passed half past eleven. We procured 48 rations of bread at the fort. The fort is situated in the junction of the Platte river, and Laramie fork. The situation is a beautiful one. I was much pleased with the treatment received at the fort. Much more so than I was at Fort Kearney. We passed over to the North, or main, branch of the Platte, which we strike one and half mile from the fort. Found good grass, wood and water. Came 17 miles today.

Sat., June 8" 1850

Left camp at 7. S. B. Wise and myself returned to the fort with letters. 23 were sent by the company. We did not overtake our train until they had turned out to graze for noon. We struck the black hills today. Many places difficult to descend. The hills are barren, many of them, but found good grass on most of them. They are covered with cedar and pine trees. Our camping place is surrounded by the most romantic scenery. A succession of hills, piled on hills, all appearing rather of a dark colour produced by the pine

A PIONEER OF aicn0

and cedar with which they are covered. 25 miles today.

Sun., June 9" 1850

All the company up, some eating, some preparing breakfast, and others have breakfasted. Sis Strowman is washing her dishes. I am-seated by the fire scribbling. I shall long remember this camping place. We are now in sight of the snowclad top of Laramie peak, a very high point of the black hills.*— We left camp at 7'. Fine day for travelling. Cool and windy. Roads very good but somewhat hilly. We-passed some very romantic scenery. Came to the river twice today. Some places three or four miles from it. One place the river passed through a high mountain, both walls being perpendicular for the height of 500 feet. We encamped in the river valley, back close to the bluffs. Came 23 miles today.

Elevation about 10,000 feet. This is one of the highest peaks in the Black Hills of Wyoming, now known as the Laramie Mountains, and not to be confused with the Black Hills to the north, in Wyoming and South Dakota. The Laramie Mountains extend from the valley of the North Platte westward, and constitute a front range of the Rocky Mountains.

The Oregon-California Trail

Monday, June 10" 1850

Fine morning. Rained last night. Everything bright. Rolled out at 7. Came to the river in two miles from our camping place. Passed over one and half mile of very bad road. Struck the bluffs, had fine roads as far as we have come. We came the river road instead of the old mormon or hill road. Are now in

sight of the junction of the two roads.* Laramie peak

" Route from Liverpool to Great Salt Lake Valley. Illustrated with Steel Engravings and Wood Cuts from Sketches-Made by Frederick Piercy," etc. Edited by James Linforth, Liverpool, 1855. On the 22nd of July, 1853, Piercy reached Fort Laramie and recorded the following advice for the benefit of the " L. D. Saints " who might follow him (mote, p. 92): " In journeying on the N. side of the main stream of the Platte, the artist considers it best to cross at Laramie to the south side, and take the old Oregon road to the upper crossing of the Platte, 124 m., by which a very bad, sandy and hilly road is avoided. 'This was the route taken by the first company of Saints who went to the G. S. L. Valley, and has generally been used. Since the change in the starting point for the overland journey, from Winter Quarters [on the west bank of the Missouri River, opposite Kanesville, or Council Bluffs] to Kansas, and more recently to Atchison, by which the S. side of the river is approached in a north-westerly direction, it is used altogether." It would thus appear that the first Mormon emigrants here followed the old Oregon Trail along the curving river bank and that their later shortcut — '"' the old Mormon, or hill road"?—fell into disrepute, even among the Mormons themselves. See Map: the two routes west of Fort Laramie are clearly shown.

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can be seen much more distinct than when it first came in view. I shall lay aside my pencil until evening. — We came into the old mormon or hill road within two miles of the place we nooned. The road very uneven.

Come 24 miles.

Tues une t

Road continues hilly, but solid. Passed several fine streams today. Country very broken, sandy and barren. 18 miles today.

Wens., June 12"

Left camp early this morning, found roads good. Came to the north fork of Platte at 2 o'clock. It appears as broad and deeper than I have seen it. It is higher than it usually is at this season of the year. We travelled up this stream 14 miles, passed 2 fine streams of water. Road good. Country barren, grass poor. The bottoms of this stream here can never be placed under a high state of cultivation. Is too sandy. Teams all making a rush for the ferry of Platte river. Came 26 miles today.

Thurs., June 13" 1850 We left camp this morning earlier than we have since we have been out, half past five. Pushed on for

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DIUAOLIIOD yunysyIN4y ay T, ,, "TYVN hq Survsp v uL0dy 6781 NI 'HUYOd HLYON "BEATE Saye ee

The Oregon-California Trail

the ferry, where we are now waiting our turn to cross. We pay. 4 dollars per waggon and 50 cts. per mule. They pass from one to two hundred waggons per day. 33 companies ahead of us. Came 184 miles today.

Friday, June 14" 1850

We had an unpleasant time last night. Passed the river half past ten, without accident. Left the Platte river for final. We will see its muddy current and treeless banks no more. We have travelled 500 miles along its banks. All seem pleased to leave it behind. We drove 18 miles today over a very uneven road, often enveloped in sand. Country barren. Water Poisonous. We have had a peep of the Elephant today, no mistake. Came 18.

Sat. June 15" 1850

Country still barren. Came to water today, 11 o'clock. Passed some poisonous water before coming to the good. Saw many skulls of oxen that died last

1 Webster, op. cit., p. 62, says: "'The country between the Platte and Sweetwater Rivers is very barren, destitute of timber, with very little grass or other vegetation, except wild sage. Much

of the water is alkali, poisonous to cattle and horses and is entirely unfit for use."

A Pioneer Of 1850

season from the effect of this water. Saw one poor fellow standing at the roadside, one ox dead. His fate I thought hard indeed. Our stock appears to be doing

well. Came 19 miles.

Sunday, June 16" 1850

This morning was fine, but the wind soon rose. Dust rolled up all day. We passed Independence rock. A solid piece of Granite rock, 600 yards long, 120 wide. Stands isolated from the surrounding hills. It stands on the north bank of Sweet water river,' a fine stream

1 Bryant, op. cit., p. 125: " July 8. — We reached about noon a well-known landmark of the mountains, called ' Independence Rock'; from the circumstance of the celebration of the fourth of July here by one of the first emigrant companies to Oregon. It is an isolated elevation, composed of masses of rock, about one hundred feet in height, and a mile or more in circumference, standing in a central and conspicuous position near the northern bank of the Sweetwater river."

Frémont, 09. cit., pp. 56-57, describes the rock as he found it in 1842: " Rock Independence. This is an isolated granite rock, about six hundred and fifty yards long, and forty in height. Except in a depression of the summit, where a little soil supports a scanty growth of shrubs, with a solitary dwarf pine, it is entirely bare. Every where within six or eight feet of the ground, where the surface is sufficiently smooth, and in some places sixty or eighty feet above, the rock is inscribed with the names of travellers. Many a name famous in the history of the country, and some well known to science, are to be found mixed among those of the traders and of travellers for pleasure and curiosity, and of

The Oregon-California Trail

8 rods wide, 2 to 3 feet deep. Crossed this stream. Put up. The scenery is of the most Romantic nature indeed. Hills high, and all solid rock. Little grass here. Came 17 miles.

Monday, June 17" 1850

Left camp early, and in two miles passed through the Devil's gate. A deep cut through solid Granite rock, 400 feet high. The prospect is one of the most sublime I ever beheld. Rocks standing perpendicular 400 feet high, pile towering on pile.* We drove seven miles, and put up on the banks of the Sweet water. The different messes are engaged, some lightening their loads, shoeing mules, etc., etc. Some out on a

hunting excursion. Hills or Mountains rather con-

missionaries among the savages. Some of these have been washed away by the rain, but the greater number are still very legible."

1 Palmer, of. cit., pp. 31-32: " July 13. We traveled about thirteen miles this day. Three miles brought us to the Gag, or Dewil's Gate, as it is sometimes called. The Sweet Water breaks through a spur of the mountain, which from appearance is four or five hundred feet high. On the south side the rocks project over the stream, but on the north slope back a little. The whole mountain is a mass of gray granite rock, destitute of vegetation, save an occasional scrubby cedar or bush of artemisia. From where the creek enters to where it emerges from this kamyon is three or four hundred yards. The water rushes through like a

torrent." [ 67 ]

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tinue solid granite, some of them covered with snow. Very windy and cold. Mr. Michner, Gray and B. Neel unwell this afternoon.

Tues., June 18" 1850 Left our encampment early this morning. Passed up the Sweet water valley. Nothing of note occurred.

Wens., June 19"

We are on Sweet water. Many natural curiosities appear, on all sides. Mountains of solid Granite rear their lofty peaks, until they meet the clouds. The country, with the exception of the bottom of Sweet water is a perfect desert.

Thursday, June 20"

Today we crossed Sweet water for the last time. Found some of the road very rough and hilly and barren, as you can well imagine.

Friday, June 21st.

We encamped on a small stream called Strawberry run. We left camp early, elated with the hope of passing the south pass today. We did pass it, and are now on the Pacific slope of the mountains. The ground

iN DE PENDENCE ROC K From a sketch by Frederick Piercy

DEVIL'S GATE From a sketch by Frederick Piercy

The Oregon-California Trail

we are now on is drained by the tributaries of the

Pacific ocean. We are now on Sublette's cutoff.

Saturday, June 22d.

We encamped last night at the Pacific spring.' Left at our usual hour, and passed the cut off which we took. I suppose 9 of every 11 teams have taken this route. We have travelled the five last days 115 miles.

Sunday, June 23d. We encamped last night on little Sandy, which stream is six miles from the mormon route. We left

1 [bid., p. 33: "This day we passed over the dividing ridge which separates the waters flowing into the Atlantic from those which find their way into the Pacific Ocean. WE HAD REACHED THE SUMMIT OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. Six miles brought us to a spring, the waters of which run into Green river, or the great Colorado of the west.— Here, then, we hailed Oregon."

Bryant, op. cit., pp. 133-134: [In camp at Pacific Spring]: "The sun went down in splendor behind the horizon of the plain, which stretches its immeasurable and sterile surface to the west as far as the eye can reach. The Wind River Mountains lift their tower-shaped and hoary pinnacles to the north. To the east we can see only the tops of some of the highest mountain elevations. The scene is one of sublime and solemn solitude and desolation. The resolution almost faints when contemplating the extent of the journey we have already accomplished, and estimate the ground which is yet to be travelled over before we reach our final destination on the shore of the Pacific."

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camp this morning and pushed on to big Sandy, which is five miles from little Sandy. We here turned out our stock to graze. Left them out until three o'clock. Having to pass a distance of forty one miles without water, we left Big Sandy half past four. Travelled all night. In the morning we grazed two hours, hooked to and pushed for Green river where we landed at 4

1 Frémont, of. cit., pp. 129-130: " Entering here the valley of Green river—the great Colorado of the West— .. . the road led for several days over dry and level uninteresting plains; to which a low, scrubby growth of artemisia gave a uniform dull grayish color; and on the evening of the 15th [August, 1843 we encamped . .. on the left bank of Green river, 69 miles from the South Pass . . . distant 1,031 miles from the mouth of the Kansas. This is the emigrant road to Oregon, which bears much to the southward, to avoid the mountains about the western heads of Green river — the Rio Verde of the Spaniards.

"' August 16. — Crossing the river, here about 400 feet wide, by a very good ford, we continued to descend for seven or eight miles on a pleasant road along the right bank of the stream, of which the islands and shores are handsomely timbered with cottonwood. The refreshing appearance of the broad river, with its timbered shores and green wooded islands, in contrast to its dry sandy plains, probably obtained for it the name of Green river, which was bestowed on it by the Spaniards who first came into this country to trade some 25 years ago. . . . Lower down, from Brown's hole to the southward, the river runs through lofty chasms, walled in by precipices of red rock; and even among the wilder tribes who inhabit that portion of its course, I have heard it called by Indian refugees from the Californian settlements the Rio Colorado. . . . From many descriptions of trappers, it

The Oregon-California Trail

o'clock having travelled 44 miles since half past four the evening before. The road is good, very, until you come within 6 miles of the river, when it is broken and rough. Some very steep hills. The country, barren in the extreme. We all crossed this evening, all safely. 44 miles.

Tuesday, June 25" 1850

I was on guard with the mules on the east side three miles from the ferry. Brought our stock in and swam them over, all safely. Remained here until four o'clock. Drove 6 miles to Fontanelle creek. Had fine

grass.

Wens., June 26" Left camp early. Found the roads more mountainous than any we have seen yet.*

is probable that in its foaming course among its lofty precipices it presents many scenes of wild grandeur" [Grand Canyon of the Colorado].

1 Smith, " Journal of a Trip to California," New York, no date but circa 1920. Smith crossed the plains in 1850, and at this point was six days in advance of our party. He says, p. 57: "Continued our march over a mountainous country, the most rough I ever saw. From some of the elevations we could see the trail for miles, dotted with men, horses and, more distinctly, the white-covered wagons."

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Whurs june 273

Country continues hilly. Passed Ham's fork of Bear [Green] river. Difficult crossing. We are much crowded by the ox teams. Travelling on high land.

Snow around us.

Friday, June 28"

Country continues very mountainous. Snow around us. Nights and mornings very cool. So much so as to freeze in our tents. The days, sultry and hot. Came to

Bear river today."

Saturday, June 29" Laid up today.

Sunday, June 30" 1850

Left early this morning. Crossed Smith's fork of Bear river. Bad crossing but all got over safely. Sick list, Sharpnack, Strowman, Houlsworth, and Brown, and S. U. Wise. Travelled down Bear river today 15 miles, to Thomas's fork, which we crossed, and en-

1 [bid., pp. 58-59: " In the afternoon we passed over a very high range, to descend which ropes had been used by former emigrants on a trail near the one we took. . . . At noon we stopped by a fine stream of water, in a deep gorge of the mountains. In the afternoon we ascended another high range of mountains, from the summits of which we could see far below us into Bear River Valley."

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GREEN RIVER " The Great Colorado of the West"

The Oregon-California Trail

camped on its western bank. We are now 85 miles from Green river. Grass good on this stream. Not so many teams around us as there were a few days since.

Monday, July 1st, 1850 The teams just left camp. Morning fine. Road hilly. — 17 miles.

Tuesday, July 2ond.

Had an early start this morning. Roads very good along Bear river. Grass good, best we have seen. Came 30 miles.

Wens., July 3d. We passed the soda springs today. They are 5 miles from the Myres' cut off.* We pushed on to the

+ Washington Irving, of. cit., v. II, pp. 31-32: " The most noted curiosity, however, of this singular region, is the Beer spring, of which trappers give wonderful accounts. They are said to turn aside from their route through the country to drink of its waters. . . . We have heard this also called the Soda Spring; and described as containing iron and sulphur. . . . The whole country through which he [Captain Bonneville] passed, bore evidence of volcanic convulsions and conflagrations in the olden time. Great masses of lava lay scattered about in every direction; the crags and cliffs had apparently been under the action of fire; the rocks in some places seemed to have been in a state of fusion; the plain was rent and split with deep chasms and gullies, some of which were partly filled with lava."

2 Myres' Cut Off was also known as Hedspeth's or Hudspeth's

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A Pioneer Of 1850

north bend of that stream. [Bear River]. Filled the water vessels. No water on Myres's cut off for 20 miles after leaving the Fort Hall road. The bottom of Bear river here has evidently been the seat of Volcanic eruptions. Huge masses of Granite rock extend across the bottom, which is from ten to 15 miles wide. These rocks have the appearance of once having been red hot, and also appear-to have been elevated or raised from their original position. 23 miles.

Cut Off. Stansbury, of. cit., p. 89, says: "' Crossing another fork from the east, we strike upon ' Hedspeth's Cut-off,' which leads from Sheep Rock, near the Soda Springs, to the Mormon road at Goose Creek. Distance, one hundred and twenty-five and a-half miles."

Marcy, " The Prairie Traveler. A Hand-Book for Overland Expeditions." With maps, illustrations, and itineraries of the principal routes between the Mississippi and the Pacific. Published by authority of the War Department. New York, 1859, p. 282, gives as route VIII: " From Soda Springs to the City of Rocks, known as Hudspeth's Cut-off."

Frémont, of. cit., p. 139: " Remaining in camp until nearly 11 o'clock, we travelled a short distance down the river [from Beer Springs], and halted to noon on the bank, at a point where the road quits the valley of Bear river, and crossing a ridge which divides the Great Basin from the Pacific waters, reaches Fort Hall. . . . In sweeping around the point of the mountain

. the river here passes between perpendicular walls of basalt. . . . The mountain, which is rugged and steep, and, by our

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Thurs., July 4, 1850

We started out early with the expectation of spending the afternoon in Celebrating the Anniversary of the birth day of the Republic of Columbia. We drove until 2 o'clock. Laid up on a fine stream of water, but I regret to say failed to celebrate the day. The day was one of the most beautiful I ever saw. Another year has passed since last 4" July, which I participated in celebrating in Jefferson, Greene Co., Pa. Came 15 miles.

Friday, July 5" 1850

We took an early start this morning for the purpose of getting before the ox teams as we are surrounded by them on all sides. Found the roads hilly in the forenoon but in the afternoon we had fine road, but were much annoyed by dust. We are on the head waters of Columbia river in Oregon territory. We find the country much better than it was beyond Green river. 23 miles. measurement, 1,400 feet above the river directly opposite the place of our halt, is called the Sheep rock — probably because

a flock of the common mountain sheep (ovis montana) had been seen on the craggy point."

se

A Pioneer Of 1850

Sat. July 6"

Travelled today most of the time through a deep cut in the mountains. The hills on each side were from 5 to 800 feet high, and only level ground sufficient for the waggons to pass. We passed the worst hill today we have yet. Had to put ropes to our waggons to hold back. Twenty two miles without water today, which was hard on our stock. Came 25 miles.

Sunday, July 7" 1850

Rolled out early this morning and crossed the dividing ridge between the waters of Mary, or Humboldt, river and Columbia river Travelled all the afternoon down one of Humboldt's tributaries. Are

now encamped and will soon sup. Came 21 miles.

Monday, July 8"

We crossed Raft river today. Bad crossing, but passed safely. We drove on some 8 miles and encamped on a branch of Raft river. 22 miles. Myres's cut off 119 miles.

Dues July 6" We left camp early. Travelled on expecting to come to a branch of Humboldt river but were doomed

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to a sad disappointment. Travelled over some barren country but had good grass. Came to the junction of

the Salt Lake and Fort Hall road.* The distance between where Myres's cut comes to the Hall road and

where the Salt Lake road strikes the same is 31 miles. Came 28 miles.

Wens., July 10" We rolled out early. Had very rough roads until noon. Roped down one bad Hill. Struck Goose creek

Stansbury, of. cit., pp. 75-76: " From Fort Bridger there are now two routes as far as the Humboldt or Mary's river, where they again unite. The old road strikes Bear River, follows down its valley by the Soda Springs to Fort Hall, whence it pursues a south-westerly course to the Humboldt. By this route a northing of nearly two degrees is made, and the road, consequently, is much lengthened. The other route was laid out by the Mormon community in 1847, and conducts the emigrant to their city, in the southern part of the Salt Lake valley, causing him to vary from the line of his direction rather more than a degree southwardly: this he has to recover by a direct north course to the crossing of Bear River near the north end of the lake, whence he proceeds in a north-west direction until he intersects the old road from Fort Hall."

Our travelers, of course, took the old road, following Bear River northward to Soda Springs and Sheep Rock. By traversing Sublette's Cut Off, they had turned westward across the desert to Bear River before reaching Fort Bridger; and entering Hudspeth's (Hedspeth's) or Myres' Cut Off at Sheep Rock (near Soda Springs) they turned abruptly southward from the Fort Hall road some miles southeast of that station.

ea

A Pioneer Of 1850

at noon. Pitched our tents that night in the valley of Goose creek, by the side of the warm springs. Came 23 miles.

Thurs., July 11"

We passed up the same creek, until noon. Left it at noon, and struck for the valley of Warm springs, a distance of 13 miles. Put up in this valley. Grass poor. Came 30 miles.

Fri., July 12"

We rolled out early for the purpose of getting in front of many of the ox teams. We nooned on poor grass. In the afternoon we travelled 8 miles without water, but came to Cool water creek at 4 0'clock. Put up on good grass a few yards from the most noted warm or rather hot springs. I bathed in the water running from these this morning. The water was too hot until it blended with a cool stream a few rods from its fountain. I consider these springs among the greatest curiosities on the route. They void as much water as would suffice for the largest Hydropathic institution in the world. The water is impregnated with sulphur, but looks as clear as any I ever saw. Came 25 miles.

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Sat., July, 13" 1850

We left early. Passed up the valley a mile, then left for good the waters of Columbia river, and passed the ridge between the waters of the Columbia and Humboldt rivers. We expect to come on to one of the branches of Humboldt this evening. — Late in the evening, we came to what we supposed was the branch referred to above, but found no running water, but some natural wells, many of which contain poisonous water. We gave our stock a little water, out of one of these wells, and pushed on until dark. Found good

rass, wood and water. Came 30 miles. g )

Sun. July 14"

We left our place of encampment early, and made a push for Humboldt river. Came to a tributary at noon, and the main stream at 4 in the afternoon. Crossed the river, and in a few rods, had a bad slough to cross. Some of our stock mired down, but landed

all over safely. 18 miles.

Monday, July 15" Travelled all day along the river. This is a beautiful stream, and voids a large quantity of water. Grass

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fine all along its banks but cannot be got to by stock, for deep and miry sloughs, in which your stock most invariably mires. We mow the grass and carry it to our mules. The roads are very dusty and the great quantities of Alkali render it not only unpleasant, but

very unhealthy. 25 miles.

Tues., July 16" 1850 We made a late start this morning, and our road

was quite rough and hilly.* We came 22 miles.

1 Delano, of. cit., pp. 236-237: "In the succeeding year [1850], the emigration was quite as large as in 1849. The reports of the error of the emigrants of the preceding year, in loading their wagons too heavily with provisions, had reached the States, and very many took the opposite extreme. . . . In 1849 there was more grass than had ever been known before. . . . There was an unprecedented fall of snow and rain the following winter, but the weather was dry and hot in the spring; and when the second emigration came on, the grass was dried up in many places where we had found it good, and the melting snows rendered the streams so high, that they were crossed with much difficulty. The lower valley of the Humboldt, where we found a smooth, level road the previous seasons, was now (in 1850) overflowed, presenting one vast lake, and the emigrants were compelled frequently to keep the hills or uplands, either in deep sands, or among rocks and ravines, with their worn-out animals, while the overflowed valley afforded no grass. Long and laborious detours were necessary . . . and on the Humboldt there was one point where they had to go thirty miles over difficult mountains, where we made the distance in six."

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Wens., July 17"

We left camp late and had bad roads. Left the river, passed over mountains. But little grass. No water for ten miles. Came 16 miles.

Thurs., July 18" 1850

We left our camping ground half past five. Travelled 17 miles without water, over the roughest road since we left the frontier. Came to the river at one o'clock. Put our stock across the river, and let them graze three hours. Took supper, hitched up, and rolled out at 4, and travelled 8 miles. Put up on the river and crossed our stock. Ford bad, grass none.

Came 25 miles.

Fri., July 19" 1850

We left early, as usual, this morning. Took the bluff in a short distance, and travelled 16 miles before coming to water, where we now are preparing supper. Weather excessively hot.— Drove 6 miles in the afternoon. In all, 22 miles.

Bats |uiy 20"

We drove 12 miles and put up, and remained all day. Here it was supposed by a large majority of the company that it would be prudent for part of our men

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to leave the waggons, and push for the city of Sacramento for the purpose of procuring provisions and returning to meet us. One of our waggons gave out also, Dr. Clark's and Howlinsworth, Rily and Brown. They abandoned it in consequence of its uncertain condition. The afternoon was spent in preparing for packing [i.e., with mules, instead of wagons]. The men who left us in the morning were Morgan Zellars, James Dunn, Thos. Ross, Isaac Lewis, B. Conn, S. U. Wise, Major Neel, G. Sharpnack, Dr. Clark, Hiram Brown, James Riley, John Howlsworth. We all left camp in the morning together. The best feeling existed between all the members of the company. Came 12 miles.

Sun., July 21st, 1850

We were on the trail early and passed along rapidly all day. Roads sandy and bad grass, all on the other side of the river and hard to get. Much of the country barren. Oh! I dislike this and have not Beka to express my dislike. 29 miles.

Monday, July 220nd. Again on the track early. More sandy roads. Country barren, for certain. Came 30 miles.

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Tues., July 23rd.

We drove late last night. Had to wade some two hundred yards through a bad slough and cut some rushes for our stock. Up early this morning and repeated the slough operation. We came 15.

Wens., 24" We drove in the forenoon in deep heavy, sand. Put up at noon, and bridged a slough. Put our animals

over. Laid over. Came 8".

Thurs., 25"

We drove out early, and drove until late. Then laid up for noon. Swam for grass, of which we procured a good supply. The roads bad, country barren. Many emigrants going to packing. See many dead animals.

Came 21 miles.

Friday, July 26"

We drove until noon over a desert. The mules gave out, many of them. At noon the mess composed of James Roseberry, Wm. Black, Asa Morris and Franklin Gray, resolved to throw their waggon away and join our mess, which at this time has only, three men, Marcellus Strowman, Uriah Michner and myself.

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Our mess is now increased to 7 men. We suppose our animals will get along with more ease. Two of our teams left us to hunt grass. We were late getting from camp, having much to do, replacing and putting in the goods of the other mess in our waggon. We drove out at 4 o'clock. Drove until midnight over another desert. Put up without any feed for our animals. Came 25 miles.

Sat., 27 July, 1850 We hitched up at daylight. Drove late, over all desert. No feed for our stock. 22 miles.

Sunday, July 28"

We drove out early. Our stock almost giving out. We have now travelled three days with little or no feed. Our stock looks badly. We expect to come to the big meadows today, but have been so much deceived in this matter that we will not be much disappointed if we never come to that place. We came to the Cold springs at 1 o'clock. Here we took our stock out, watered them, cut some rushes, and laid here all day. These springs are a God send to the poor famished emigrant. I was never so rejoiced as when one of our

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men returned with a can full of good cool spring water, the first I had drank for three weeks. The water of this river is not good at best, but at this time is unwholesome from the great number of dead animals lying in it. You will sometimes see 20 and 30 dead animals in two or three miles. 12".

Monday, July 29"

We hooked up this morning, started in the direction of the meadows,' said to be 6 miles distant. We came toa large broad level plain, in about the distance stated, but in the hopes of getting better grass, and more conveniently, we drove down the slough 6 miles further, where we now are. Find grass here in great abundance, of a good quality. The quantity of grass is almost inexhaustible. Thousands of emigrants are taking in hay here to feed their animals over the desert which lies ahead, from fifteen to 20 miles. Then we have forty miles without wood or water and little,

if any, grass. Came 12 miles.

Tues., Wens., and Thurs. Three days we laid by here to recruit our animals, of which they stood in great need.

1 Tassen's Meadows.

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Friday, August 20nd, 1850

We left our place of encampment, with hay and water for the Desert. We drove 20 miles, which brought us to one of the sinks of Mary's river. Here we put up. Water by, no means good. The curiosities here of note.

Sat., August 3d.

We took an early start, and in 8 miles passed the last water of Mary's river, and took up our line of march about 4 o'clock for the 40 mile stretch across the Desert. We travelled until twelve o'clock, unhooked our animals, fed them well with hay prepared at the meadows. We remained here about one hour, hooked in and moved on. In one hour or less, we came to the sand,* of which we had heard so much. The road of a sudden became heavy, and the animals could with great difficulty get through it. There I witnessed the greatest voluntary destruction of property I ever did. You can form some idea, when I state that 25

' Bryant, op. cit., p. 214: "We passed from the pools or 'Sink' [of Mary's River] over the low ridge of sand-hills, in a south course. Our mules waded through these hills, or heaps of dry and ashy earth, rather than walked over them, sinking in many places nearly to their bellies, and manifesting the strongest signs

of exhaustion."

The Oregon-California Trail

waggons were counted in one hundred yards. Dead animals by hundreds.* We plodded along until daylight, when we halted for the purpose of feeding and breakfasting. I was very much fatigued. After an hour's rest we again took the track, but made slow progress. The sun became excessively hot. Our-animals failed for the want of water. In fact, we all suffered, as must all, men and animals, that cross that sand plain. We baited a little at noon. Some of our men went ahead, to a spring one and a fourth mile from the road and 4 from the river and carried out a gallon of water to the mules. This refreshed us all both men and animals so much that we again moved. And in two and half hours came to the river — Car-

Delano, of. cit., pp. 240, 258: " From the Sink of the Humboldt, across the desert . . . like that of the previous year, the road was covered with the putrefied carcasses of dead animals, and the effluvia arising from them poisoned the atmosphere, and produced disease among the emigrants, and on their arrival in Hangtown, one of the lower mining districts, the cholera broke out, and raged with violence, thus adding pestilence to their other misfortunes. A large portion of the emigration of 1849 explored and occupied the northern mines, while those of 1850 either stopped in the central, or proceeded to the southern diggings, and the two emigrations wrought a change in California, wonderful as the magic influence of Aladdin's lamp. . . . Almost every miner, in the years '49 and '50, experienced hardships nearly akin to those of others; and shared alike much ill fortune."

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son's river, where we found a crowd of emigrants. We fed with some hay we had left, prepared a little supper, tied up our mules, lay down and slept soundly until morning. You may suppose our slumbers were very little interrupted, from this fact that we had not slept any for 36 hours, not eaten one mouthful since early in the morning, walked through the sand and hot sun all day. 40 miles, Saturday and Sunday.

Monday, August 5"

We pushed out before breakfast, for the purpose of getting grass for our mules. We drove up the river five miles, found good grass, and laid by the balance of the day, to recruit our stock after their hard drive over the desert.

Tues., August 6"

We left camp early and drove over one of the little deserts of 13 miles without wood, water or grass. Struck the river and went up a few miles. Found good grass. Came 20 miles.

Wens., August 7"" Left our camp at daylight, for the purpose of getting over another desert, of 26 miles. We drove until

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12, unhooked our animals. Gave them as much grass as they would eat and some water. Took the trail at 2 o'clock, and after a hard drive again came to the river at 6 o'clock, much worn down by the day's labor and want of water. Took our stock down the river, mile and half. Found the best grass we have had for some days. Came 26 miles.

Thursday, August 8"

Remained at our camp of the day before until two o'clock. Hooked to and drove 6 miles. Crossed our mules, found the best of grass. Came 6 miles.

Friday, August 9"

We left early and drove over a desert of fifteen miles. Struck the water and grazed. Hooked to and drove until sundown. Put up on fine grass. Came 26.

Sat., August 10" 1850

Took the trail this morning in good time. Have had good roads, by the side of a broad valley covered with a most luxuriant growth of fine grass. The hills or mountains very high and peaks tipped with snow, their sides covered with pine timber of a large growth. I thought this one of the most beautiful sights I ever

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saw. We have travelled hundreds and hundreds of miles, and seen but little timber larger than the privet bushes in our garden at home. This change then was pleasing indeed. We hope to come to the mountains in two days, and reach Weaverville in 7 days, when we will consider our long and laborious journey almost ended. We paid today one dollar per pound -for flour.*

t Delano, of. cit., pp. 238-239: " By the earliest arrivals, in June and July, of those emigrants who reached the valley, the suffering and destitution of those behind were made known, and the government and individuals once more extended the hand of relief.-San Francisco, Sacramento City, and Marysville made large contributions, and trains [mules and wagons] loaded with provisions were dispatched to meet them. In addition to this, traders pushed their way over the snows to Carson's Creek, and Truckee River, and even to the Sink of the Humboldt, with supplies. . . . Many perished miserably, after having endured all but death in crossing the plains. Were the personal adventures of a moiety of the emigration of 1850 to be written, they would furnish a volume of absorbing interest, forming a sad commentary on the California gold-seeking mania, which produced more wide-spread misery than any similar occurrence in the annals of mankind."

Soulé, Gihon and Nisbet, of. cit., pp. 286-287: "' August 21st. [1850] Mayor Geary published a brief address to the citizens in all the morning papers [of San Francisco], informing them that news had been received of the 'destitution, distress, and extreme suffering of the immigrants to California by the overland route.' . . . It was also stated by J. Neely Johnson, Esq., Agent for the Sacramento Relief Association, who had recently returned from an expedition of relief to the immigrants, that 'it

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Laid by here and made hay to subsist our animals over the mountains.

Sunday, August 11" 1850

We tied our hay in small bundles, or bunches, today in the forenoon, loaded up, and took the trail at 2 o'clock. Drove 9 miles by the side of the valley mentioned in yesterday's notes. Encamped at sundown on fine grass and good water.

Mon., 12"

Left camp before sunup this morning, and came to the Kanyon by noon. We baited our mules here two hours. We expect to pass some of the worst roads this afternoon. — We were not disappointed in the roads. We passed through a Kamyon, or deep hollow. The mountains on either side arose to the height of 3 to

was supposed that 60,000 emigrants started across the plains by the Northern, or 'Southern Pass' route. On the 18th June, 39,000 had been registered at Fort Laramie. Of this entire number probably 20,000 had arrived. Of the remaining number, 10,000 would probably arrive this side of the Desert, without teams, money, or provisions; 10,000 more with their teams so much worn down as to require additional assistance to enable them to cross the mountains.' . . . Before night the committee had collected an immense quantity of provisions, and about $6000 in cash, which was forwarded without delay to meet the wants of the sufferers."

Lor]

A Pioneer Of 1850

500 feet. The scenery wild, romantic, yes, sublime, in the highest degree. 4 miles of this road was most decidedly the worst road I ever passed over with a team. You will not credit me when I state that we took a waggon heavily loaded to which were attached 8 mules, over roads that no man would be willing to ride, more particularly if his charger should be high mettled. We passed over large granite rocks, made short turns by lifting our waggons around, and finally reached the top or head of the Kanyon, at sundown, when we found a beautiful little green platte on which we encamped for the night.* More wearied and worn

1 Abbey, James, " A Trip across the Plains, in the Spring of 1850," etc.. New Albany, Indiana, 1850. Abbey crossed the Sierra Nevada about one day in advance of our travelers. On August 9-18, pp. 56-60, he makes the following entries: " Our only dread now is the Sierra Nevada Mountains. ... At 11 o'clock we came to the western branch of Carson river, and into a large canon through a gorge in the mountains. . . . The road which we are traveling defies all description. Of all the rough roads I have ever seen or even imagined, this beats them. Rocks from the size of a flour barrel to that of a meeting house are strewed all along the road, and these we are compelled to clamber and squeeze our way through as best we can... . Shoved ahead . . . to the foot of the first mountain; here we hitched seven yoke of oxen to our wagon, and in a few minutes were on the first summit. . . . Commenced ascending the second summit of the mountain; traveled about half a mile, . . . when the cattle gave out. . . . It was finally con-

The Oregon-California Trail

out than on any other evening since we left home. Came 15 miles today.

Tues., August 13"

Took the road early this morning. Found the roads fine until we struck the mountains, which was in the afternoon. We passed through a valley, well timbered with pines of a large growth. When we came to the foot of the mountain and some of our men examined the road, they almost despaired of getting our waggons up. We:saw most teams taking out part of their

cluded to pack our oxen . . . and throw the wagon away... . Rolled out, and an awful roll it was, too— over cliffs of rocks, down steep, craggy hills, enough to kill an ox to look at. . stopped for the night, having made 6 miles; tall traveling, that. ae nt) 2 o'clock we . commenced the 'ascent' of the snowy mountains. At 5 we reached the summit of the highest ridge of California mountains, about eight miles distant from our last encampment, over rough, rocky roads, and through banks of snow fourteen feet deep. . . . The mountains here are heavily timbered with pine and cedar, the finest I ever saw. . . . We are now fifty miles from the gold diggings. . . . Stopped to rest and feed our cattle at a place called Leek Springs Valley. It appears to me that the miles in the mountains are twice as long as those in the valley. . . . We traveled some three hours by moonlight down the mountain. . . . At 10 o'clock we reached our present camp, 20 miles from Hangtown. . . . Quite early this morning, we arrived at the forks of the road, the one leading to Hangtown and the other to Weaversville. We took the latter."

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loading, but concluded to make an effort with ours with load all in. We took the rise and passed some of the distance very easily, but soon came to steep, rocky places and short turns, which to look at discouraged some of our men. Nevertheless, we made the effort and finally succeeded in gaining the summit by hard pulling, harder than ever was done on that, or any other mountains. Our poor mules, — I never pitied animals, as did I ours. I consider this the worst road over which waggons ever did, or ever will, pass." In descending from this mountain we had the misfortune

1 Washington Irving (of. cit., v. I, p. 51) relates that in 1832, Captain Bonneville, traveling up the Nebraska or Platte River at a point east of Laramie's Fork, encountered a party of Crow Indians, and states: ""Waggons had never been seen by them before, and they examined them with the greatest minuteness."

Frémont, of. cit., p. 165: "We were on a trail formed by a party of wagons. ... They had still between them and the valley of the Sacramento a great mass of mountains, forming the Sierra Nevada, here commonly known as the Great California mountain, and which were at this time [1843] considered as presenting an impracticable barrier to wheeled carriages."

Encyclopedia Britannica, Thirteenth Edition, v. V, p. 7, 1926: '. . . The magnificent Sierra Nevada . . . the finest mountain system of the United States. . . . The eastern slope is very precipitous, due to a great fault which drops the rocks of the Great Basin region abruptly downward several thousand feet. Rare passes

cross the chain. . . . Very few in the entire Sierra are passable by vehicles."

'

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to break two spokes, out of one of the hind wheels of our waggon. We drove on for a mile, put up and in the morning repaired our broken wheel and once

more moved on. 15 miles.

Wens., August 14"

Descended this chain of mountains by 10 o'clock and passed a valley 4 mile in width. Then took the mountains again. This is the second range of the Sierra Nevada. We travelled for three hours, and came into a valley, where we nooned. Then took the rise again., Passed over a large snow bank from 15 to 20 feet deep. Our mules failed very much on this mountain, but we at length reached the top. We found the roads uneven and rocky, on the top with some elevations of from one to 300 feet. We encamped by the side of a snow bank. Took our mules down in a small valley, where we found good grass, by the side of a most beautiful lake of crystal water, surrounded by snow, much of which I suppose never melts. The

scenery wild beyond description. 12 miles."

1 Smith, of. cit., p. 78, passing over the same route, about fifteen days in advance of our party at this point, says: "To dividing range of mountains, with Red Lake at foot, five miles. Over this range and down to another lake, six miles. Over Snow Mountain

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Thurs., August 15"

We were out before the sun this morning, and drove to the Leek springs for breakfast, a distance of 7 miles. Took our animals one and half mile for a little grass. Took a good feed of fresh beef, and fine warm light cake and most excellent tea, after which we took the trail once more. Drove until sundown. Put up where there was no grass to be had for our animals. Bought Barley for them at low rate of 50 cts. per pound. I met with a loss here I shall long remember. One of our mules belonging to myself either strayed or was stolen. He was a large mule, and had pulled faithfully, and truly. I regretted losing him when we were so near through. 15 miles.

Fri., August 16" 1850

Detained for some time looking for old Ben this morning. Rolled out at 9, travelled briskly all day. The country quite different from what I supposed on this side of the mountain. You pass along a ridge cov-

to Rock Valley, ten miles. (Through snow two miles.) Road over continual rocks; snow in places, and timber. Cool day and freeing at night. On the mountain, amid the melting snows, were flowers of the most brilliant colors, and the road passed for many miles among gigantic pines."

The Oregon-California Trail

ered with high pine timber, with deep gullies on either side. I was in one of them in search of old Ben, which I suppose was 1200 feet deep, and one of the most dismal places I was ever in. I followed on the trail of a grizzly Bear with only one companion and both unarmed, not even having a Jacked knife with us, but fortunately for us we did not see any of their Bearships. After passing the two main ridges of the Sierra Nevada, you pass along the ridge mentioned for 50 miles, occasionally passing some deep ravines and up some hard hills, but most of the time descending. 24 miles.

Sat., August 17" 1850 Pushed out early, and came to the forks of the road, one going to Weaverville, the other to Hangtown,"

Placerville, see note p. xviii. Richardson, only fifteen years later, traveling from Carson to Placerville, gives us a different picture. He says, op. cit., pp. 382, 384, 385: " The winding road is graded like a railway — the finest of turnpikes for the perfection of staging. In early days the ride was very perilous: along rocky sidling roads, upon the edge of dizzy precipices, where one looked down for a thousand feet upon patches of greensward and silver streams. . . . Now, the broad, winding roads are beautifully smooth, and in summer sprinkled from carts for sixty miles to keep down the all-enveloping dust. The carts are supplied from great wooden water-tanks two or three miles apart. Down the

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distance 19 to 20 miles. We fed [animals] here, took supper and drove on for Hangtown, but put up about 1 o'clock. I stood guard until nearly morning. 20

miles.

Sun., August 18" 1850

We hooked to this morning early, and drove to Hangtown for breakfast, a distance of 12 miles. Here we fed [animals], took dinner. Had fresh potatoes, quite a luxury, indeed. We are now in the diggings, but they look a little hard, no mistake. Five months today since we bid our friends adieu on the banks of old Monongahela. We have learned and seen and experienced some little in those five months. I venture the

narrow, winding shelf-road our horses went leaping at a sharp gallop. It is a thrilling ride; for, at many points, a divergence of six inches from the track would send the coach rolling from five hundred to a thousand feet down the mountain, into the foaming stream-bed of some yawning canyon. . . . Twenty-four on the coach, with six horses, galloping down the Sierra Nevadas, along a winding, narrow, dizzy road, at twelve miles an hour! It is swift as Sheridan's Ride and stirring as the Charge of the Six Hundred. The track was half covered with great California freight wagons. One carries from six to ten tons, and is drawn by ten or twelve mules, each bearing on his saddle four tinkling bells. . . . Early in the evening we reached Placerville, having ridden seventy-two miles in seven hours, including all stoppages."

[98]

SHOT Wf &9 yotays v WoL OS QI NI-ATTIAY gona

The Oregon-California Trail

prediction that they will not soon be forgotten by one member of the Jefferson-California Company. Came 13 miles. To Sacramento 50 "

Summary of distances given on last page of diary, and evidently kept as a running record during the trip:

Frontier to Platte river 344 miles From the point where we struck Platte to

Fort Kearney 15 miles From this point to Fort Laramie 342 miles From Laramie to north Platte river ferry 141 miles Independence rock from the ferry 45 miles From this point to South pass and Pacific

Springs 103 miles From this point to Salt Lake road 14 miles Big Sandy 13 miles Then to Green river 44 miles Bear river 60 miles Soda springs 65 miles To Myres' cut off 6 miles From this point to where we again strike

the Fort Hall trail 120 miles

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From here to the junction of Salt Lake

road 30 From Salt Lake road to Goose creek ree: From this point to head of same, to

Mary's river 200 From head of this river to Sink 29:7

40 miles above the sink is the cold springs From Sink to Carson 45

this distance is all called the Great Desert

[ 100 ]

miles miles

miles miles

miles

- a / t ae ee Se ae

b A

— - a

ee

- — Xe

' :

Mehr Diggings.

The Diggings

#WO months after his arrival in the gold

country, my father wrote a long letter

to a friend residing in Greene County, Pennsylvania. This letter, which was given by its recipient to a local newspaper for publication and thus fortunately preserved, was evidently the fulfillment of a long-standing promise to inform his friend in detail of his experience in crossing the plains. It contains a résumé, fuller in many respects than the journal, of the trip from Independence to Hangtown, and is, in itself, a commentary both upon the lack of information then prevailing in the eastern part of the country as to our recently acquired western possessions, and upon the wide-spread interest which this topic aroused. The fact that most of the members of the Jefferson-California Company were residents of Greene County doubtless added to the news value of the letter.

It is only just to remember, as we read, that the

A Pioneer Of 126850

letter was composed for his friend's eye only, and with no thought of a wider public. It was, moreover, written on a sick bed, and added to from day to day, as his strength permitted. It is easy to see how depressing the rough life of the diggings must have been to a fastidious man, especially during a period of enforced inactivity and when brought low by sickness. When he predicts that " this country will . . . result in a curse to the United States," it is perhaps the jaundice speaking. In fact, at the close of the letter, he takes a milder view, and goes so far as to say: "1 consider this a healthy country if men have the proper diet. . . . Iam much better today." His aversion to tobacco in all forms — as well as alcoholic beverages — was a personal idiosyncrasy which endured all his life. In that connection, too, his fastidiousness was a factor; the sight of men spitting and chewing —a well-nigh universal custom then, if one is to believe contemporaneous records — seemed almost unendurable to him.

" Read the letter of Dr. Read on the first page. It is very interesting, and we cannot doubt, portrays

things in their true coloring. It comes the nearest our

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Si tT Ee sem rh

" One day, about the last of May, 1848, as Mr. Marshall was walking down the race to this deposit, mear where the figures are seen in the engraving, he observed some glittering particles

at its upper edge."

The Diggings

preconceived ideas of Californian emigration of anything we have met in the correspondence from the "golden land.? Everyone who knows the Doctor, will concede the merit of truth and fairness to all he writes, and those who do not know him may rest assured that in a tour to California, they too will get a sight of the Elephant as he did. We would recommend his letter as a specific for California fever. There are now thousands of persons in California — dragging out the remains of wretched constitutions, the subjects of disappointed hope, — who would give anything possible to be attained, if they were again surrounded by, the comforts they abandoned, only to taste the bitter dregs of the cup of disappointment."

" From California. Our esteemed friend, Richard Long, Esq., of Jefferson township, has furnished us for publication the following very interesting letter from Dr. G. W. Read, who is now in the ' golden land.' The letter will amply repay perusal."

" Richard Long, Esq. SEBASTES MEME

" Dear Friend: — " My promise to write to you would have been redeemed before this late day, but for two weeks I have

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been confined by sickness to my tent. I am much better, but so nervous that I can scarcely guide my pen. My disease is jaundice and chills; bad disease in this climate. I shall now say a few words about our long trip by land to this place. The aggregate distance from the Missouri river to these diggings is something over 2200 miles. From Missouri river to Platte, or Nebraska river, 370 miles. Consult your map, and all will be plain. We crossed the frontier on the and of May. The day was very inclement; it rained in torrents. The country, most beautiful — one continued sheet of prairie. Soil good, but owing to the spring being backward, and it being early in season, the grass was very short, but we had feed for our animals until we struck the Platte, where we found grass in abundance. All this country may some day be inhabited; some parts of it along the water courses are very fine; water here, but timber everywhere scarce. The first night I stood guard; it rained and blew a tremendous gale all night. We formed our camp in regular military order, and kept the most strict guard all the way, through.

"A word more about this first night. It was very

1 See note p.-22:

The Diggings

cold. Our camping ground was an old one known by the name of the lone Elm, an elm tree having once stood there, but all which was now visible of his Elmship, was some roots. We unhooked our animals in the rain, staked them and fed some corn; all hands very cold — some long faces at that lone elm. We then after a vigorous effort, procured some roots and little sticks, with which we heated some pond water, made some sassafras tea, and I must say I never relished a meal better than the supper at the lone Elm, which was composed of the tea mentioned, pilot or hard bread, dried beef and cheese. It is the appetite that gives our food relish, and as the boys say, we were all trotted through that first day on the plains. Allow me here to remark that no weakly person has any business on these plains. Tell this to all; I intend it for the benefit of others. The reason I consider too plain to call for a place here.

"¢ Well I have turned my sheet, but my head buzzes so, and I feel so strangely that I should not continue to write. 1 am so lonesome and have been under this hateful old tent for two weeks and better! I often

1 About this time, another denizen of the gold fields, Henry L. Van Scoy, in his cabin on Doten's Bar, not far distant, was writing

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wish myself in your country for a few days, when I would mount my old bay, charger and come to your hospitable mansion — a few days there and your good apples would soon bring me out all right. But then I am well ina manner, and should not complain. And

in a similar strain. (Unpublished journal of Henry L. Van Scoy). Van Scoy " sailed with a fresh breeze" in the bark Hamilton from Sag Harbor} New York, October 25, 1849, reaching San Francisco by way of Cape Horn March 16, 1850. His journal contains a detailed account of the long voyage and gives a day-by-day picture of his life in the diggings for some time after his arrival. "Sunday, October 13th, 1850. This day is remembered as being the birth-day of Henry L. Van Scoy; I mean remembered by my friends, or at least I trust so: it is a pleasant day and rather lonesome for I am about sick, although much better than I was some ten or twelve days since. William Strong is sick and George M. Rogers has the chill and fever, and John Sandford is complaining; Daniel V. Howell being the only well person in the company. . . Sundays appear long, very long, especially when a person is not well." Five days later he notes: "Mr. Rogers has gone to work this afternoon, his chill and fever is broke and is getting along very well although he does not look like a miner yet." On October 20th the entry in his journal runs: "' Pleasant long lonesome day here in the wilds of California, no society, nothing but miners hazing* to and fro and many of them out hunting, little or no regard to the Sabbath; it is true they do not work at mining, but they might as well work at mining as gunning although one man was very fortunate this morning, he killed a noble Deer and we bought some of the venison and made soup. . . . How time flies, almost a year since I left home." *Colloquial for frolicking or rambling about.

The Diggings

now I should say, I crossed the plains, stood guard, and did more perhaps than anyone in the company, having charge of the company, as their captain and physician — underwent many hardships every way, and was not sick one hour until we landed at the mines. This was better — much more fortunate — than I dared hope for. I think I will be healthy after this brush; it was produced by some very, hot days. The wet season will soon set in, the weather will be cooler, and agree with my constitution much better. Many sicken and die here; not a day passes but one or more funerals, several doctors have died lately — some very eminent men.

"This is a very bad country for morals. I would counsel all young men, and all others whose principles of religion, morals, and temperance are not firmly fixed, not to think of coming to this country. There are more spirits of all kinds gulped down in this than in any other country on the face of the earth.' To-

1 Hittell, of. cit., v. 3, pp. 163-164, 169-170: " All over the mining regions, as soon as the new immigration came in and penetrated the mountains, the saloon and the gambling house were among the first institutions to be set up, while in the cities and towns they increased in size, richness, service and luxuriousness with the growth of population. . . . In no part of the world, perhaps, were there so much gambling and so much drinking as in

A Pioneer Of 1850

bacco, that most hateful and nauseous weed, which even in your country kills numbers, here everything in the shape of the human animal eats it, and sucks the smoke off it, whenever not engaged in work; and even then the old stinking pipe will be in their mouths.

California. . . . Every possible luxury connected with drinking, procurable in California, could be-found in the mines; and there was hardly any drink in the world too rare or too expensive for importation into that paradise of indulgence. It is doubtful whether there ever was before so ready a market for the costliest brandies and most exquisite champagnes; and no business afforded such profits as the liquor business. Many of the largest fortunes in California were made, or at least got their start, in this traffic. Hardly a team left Sacramento or Stockton or a train threaded the mountain trails that did not carry more or less of spirituous or malt drink; and hardly a man lived or worked in the mines that did not contribute to some extent to the fortunes of those who managed its importation and distribution."

Soulé, Gihon and Nisbet, of. cit., pp. 494-495: " During 1853, there were, in round numbers, imported into San Francisco . . . whiskey equal to 20,000 barrels, and 400 barrels of rum; 9,000 casks, hogsheads and pipes, 13,000 barrels, 2,600 kegs and 6,000 cases, of brandy; 34,000 baskets of champagne; and, of other wines, 9,150 hogsheads and casks, 2,500 barrels, 1,800 kegs and 156,000 cases. To complete the long list of ' drinks,' there were also imported, of beer, 24,000 casks and hogsheads, 13,000 barrels, 23,000 cases and boxes; and of ' unspecified liquors,' 5,000 pipes and casks, 6,000 barrels, 5,000 kegs, 8,000 cases and 1,600 packages. 'These importations were to supply the wants of fewer than four hundred thousand persons, resident in California and Oregon, and some of them in the Sandwich Islands."

The Diggings

This with tea and coffee, mess pork, and flat bread, and keeping up the steam, sends many a California emigrant to a California grave. I do not suppose, sir, that there are 20 houses in all this territory, in which you will not find liquors, all kinds, for sale; this country is by far the most extensive for manufacturing drink on the earth, the hot-bed of vice, of all and every kind; it will in my humble opinion, result in a curse to the United States. God grant, it may result otherwise.

"J must now finish a brief description of the country over which we passed. The Platte river and the country up to it, is most of it rather a beautiful country, but no timber on much the larger portion of it; much of it also lies very high, and water I have no doubt, will in many places be hard to procure, or it never can be procured except during the wet season. Art may at some future day, devise some means to catch and keep water during the dry season. The road up to the Platte is without exception the best in the world; from where we struck the Platte, it is only

1 Burton, Richard F., " The City of the Saints, and Across the Rocky Mountains to California," New York, 1862. Burton left St. Joseph for Great Salt Lake City by overland stage in August, 1860. He says, p. 16: "Landing in Bleeding Kansas — she

Been

A Pioneer Of 1850

15 miles to Fort Kearney. This military post is situated one and a quarter miles from the river, in a beautiful bottom, covered at the time we passed with a most luxuriant growth of fine grass. No favors here for emigrants unless doubly paid for. They were erecting some fine frame buildings and no doubt it will be a post of some note. The Platte river is from 14 to two miles wide; water constantly muddy and very cold, caused by the snow in the mountains melting and swelling it at the approach of the warm season; it is not deep and can be waded almost anywhere, but the bottom is entirely composed of quick sand — one moment you may not be in water knee deep, the next up to your chin. All the timber you see is on the Islands, and consists of a few small cottonwood trees; occasionally you may see a few on the Northern bank, but very seldom you see any on the South bank. It is a dull dreary looking river, and for my own part, I never more wish to see its murky waves. We passed up the Platte 149 miles above Fort Kearney in which distance we passed the junction of the North and still bleeds — [Free Soil vs. slavery agitation] we fell at once into 'Emigration Road,' a great thoroughfare, broad and well

worn as a European turnpike or a Roman military route, and undoubtedly the best and the longest natural highway in the world."

The Diggings

South branches; the bottoms grew more narrow and presented a more barren appearance the further up.

"We came to the ford the 29th of May, at noon, turned out our stock to graze, took out our loading and put boards on the tops of our waggon beds. In addition to this, we put blocks under the bed; when ready to enter the river, our loads were from four to five feet from the ground. I am very timid in water, and felt no little concern for the safe crossing of our teams. We had to go a mile and a half in the water. The mules choked, many, of them, the draught was very hard, the quick sand giving way under the animals' feet, and the bottom so uneven. Often the teams would come to a dead stand, the wheels coming against a bank of sand two and three feet high; the water would soon remove it some, and by hard whipping, and hard pulling, we all landed safely, in about one hour from the time we took the water. I never felt better than when all were safely landed.

"'T here saw many women and children; the little fellows appear to stand it as well as their sires. The ladies must, I think, feel keenly their many privations. I wish they were all at their homes they have so recently deserted. They. will all respond Amen to

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that wish, before they see the golden land, I entertain not so much as a shadow of the least doubt. I have seen several fresh graves. How hard, Oh! how hard to die out here in these wilds, without a friend to smooth your pillow.

"J must hasten on; my strength will not permit of so much detail. From the South to the North branch, is 20 miles, good-road with the exception of two miles at the outcome, where we descended a tremendous mountain, in some places almost perpendicular, but all slided down safely. From where we struck this branch to Fort Laramie, is 174 miles. This is a much more important post than Fort Kearney. I saw some fine looking military men here; we got several rations of light bread here of a most superior quality. This fort is beautifully situated in the junction of Laramie fork, a most beautiful stream, almost as large as your old river which sweeps the borders of Greene.* From these points, it is over 700 miles to the frontier, and to the ferry of the North Platte, 141 miles. At this ferry which is very rapid and deep, many persons are drowned, most of them by reckless conduct in attempting to swim the river, the water being as cold as

1 The Monongahela River. [114 ]

The Diggings

ice, occasioned by the snow which is on the mountains 20 to 50 feet deep — 20th June. There is brandy kept here for sale, at 50 cents per thimbleful, but repeating soon makes a man able to swim the river. "We paid four dollars per waggon and 50 cents per head to have them crossed. We landed safely about noon of 14th of June. In opening my notes taken of the trip, I see these remarks: ' We to-day take our final leave of Platte river and forever turned our backs on it. We have passed up its banks over 500 miles, drank of its current for the last time. We will see its muddy current and treeless banks no more. None seem to regret it.2 You must now open your map. We now cross over to the Sweetwater, a stream you will easily find, and one which we pass up some distance. This 45 miles demands some attention. The water for 28 miles is all poisonous. I saw many animals' bones, the remains of those poisoned last season. It will kill anything that partakes of it. Many animals were lost this season. One poor fellow I must mention, whom I passed about ten o'clock second day after leaving Platte — remember we had no water all this time. He and a little son stood by the roadside, one ox dead and the other chained to their little waggon,

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both crying, far from either end of the road. I could afford no relief and hastened by. Such is a trip overland to California.

" This 45 miles is also barren, little food for stock, road mountainous and very bad. For twelve miles before you come to Sweetwater you have heavy sand and very hard pulling. I should have stated we passed some curiosities on Platte. Fhe Chimney rock, a shaft of sand running up to an elevation of 500 feet, can be seen more than a hundred miles. Court House rock, a pile of the same material, and resembling a large court house in shape, hence its name. But here where we come to Sweetwater is one of the greatest curiosities I have ever beheld; I mean the Independence rock, which is rock for certain, the solid granite. No tool can be made to cut it, it is so hard. This rock is 600 yards long, and 120 yards wide, and has many names written on it. The mountains along Sweetwater are solid rock and hundreds of feet high. I was often excited at the scenery among these mountains of rock; they exceed anything I ever looked upon. Grand and sublime indeed they are —I never felt my littleness so much as while looking on these massive piles.

The Diggings

"T omitted to state that we passed Saleratus lakes. At a distance they resemble snow banks. The saleratus is good, more pure than any I had ever seen. Tons of it might be collected in a very short time. Most of the emigrants gathered some for their own use. This whole country appears to be saturated with it, — all along Sweetwater there is a crust of it over the ground. The waters, also, are all more or less impregnated with it.

"I shall now pass more rapidly on from Sweetwater to the South Pass in the Rocky Mountains, 105 miles. This pass is merely a gap in the mountains. I am now on the west side of the rocky mountains. To big Sandy 27 miles, from big Sandy to Green river 44 miles; this 44 miles is called the first desert, there being no water and but little grass in that distance. Greene river is a dangerous stream to cross; many were drowned there this season, eleven men in one day. From Greene to Bear river 65 miles, bad road, country barren, some of the largest and steepest mountains to go up and down I ever saw. The bottoms of Bear river were covered with grass of the most nutritious quality; I do not suppose that stronger or better grass grows anywhere. Bear river empties into

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Salt Lake, where the Mormons are now located. They have the fattest and finest cattle I have ever seen, and they are making money like dirt out there.

" From where we struck Bear river to ' Myres' cut off,' 66 miles; we here left the Fort Hall road and took this cut off; length of the cut 120 miles. From this point to the head of Mary's or Humboldt river 245 miles, from head to sink of said river 327 miles. Now for 600 miles this country is barren; all the grass you find is along the edges of the water courses; it never can be inhabited; sand and nothing but sand here. Mary river was high; bottoms covered with water; animals mired down almost anywhere; thousands mired and died before they could be got out. We are now never out of sight of dead animals, and often can count twenty and not move. As we come towards the sink we cannot get feed; have to swim, wade sloughs, and cut with knives for 8 or 9 head of stock; many times we cannot get any, and have to cut tops of willow bushes. We often drive from morning until 12 o'clock at night before we come to water, and see nothing but sage bushes and sand. Barren! Barren! 20 miles above the sink there is a large bottom, I suppose 20,000 acres well covered with grass. We

The Diggings

rested here four days and made ready for the desert between the sink of Mary's river and Carson's river; you can easily find them on your map —is 45 miles and is called the big desert. We started in late in the evening and drove steadily on all night; about 2 o'clock we struck the deep sand, which continued 14 miles; it exceeded anything I ever beheld. Waggons left, harness, etc.; I saw 200 waggons in half a mile, dead animals so thick you could step from one to another.

"We got across at sundown the next day after we left the sink. We gave our animals water, and fed them some hay, and laid down to rest, not having slept one minute all the night before, and travelling steadily on all the time. I was never so completely worn down. Next morning we drove up six miles, swam our stock across the river, found good grass, and rested all day.

"TJ must here mention one of the great hardships, and one which no weak breasted person can stand. It is the sand and dust in many places; the dust lies from one to two and a half feet deep, often high winds, which raise it in clouds and sometimes you cannot see the animals in your team. This dust is saturated with

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alkali, and is so irritating that it keeps the lips and mouth raw most of the time. It is very hard on the sound lungs and a full breasted man, but on the weak breasted it is almost sure death.

" Up Carson river we had plenty of feed most of the time, and got along finely, until we struck the mountains, at the head of this river. We had hard drawing and lifting. We succeeded in crossing all these mountains, snow, rocks and all. We landed in the ' diggings 18th August. For three weeks we had to buy all our flour $1 per lb., beef 30 cents, etc., etc. Many suffered, some almost starved. The Cholera was behind us some ten or fifteen days and is said to have killed a great number. The day we got in we had travelled nearly all the night before, and hooked to before sunrise and drove ten miles before we took any nourishment. But we found some good beef and young potatoes, on which we dined sumptuously.

" Well I have been here two months, and can give you but little information about this country. One thing, the mines are not so good as they were last season, and but few will make big piles this year, and

President Polk, in his annual message to Congress, December, 1848, made the first official announcement of the discovery of gold in California, describing the richness of the mines and

The Diggings

chance will do as much in those cases as the persons themselves. If a person gets a rich claim, he may do well, but these are now scarce and hard to find. We have procured our winter provisions, built a house,

and thrown up some claims, — and if we do well I

basing his statements on a report from Col. R. B. Mason, " governor and commander-in-chief of all the United States land forces in California," of a visit to the " mineral regions." President Polk attached Gov. Mason's letter to his message, and (in Ex. Doc. No. 1, Ho. of Reps., Thirtieth Congress, Second Session, Pp. 56-62), we read: "We reached San Francisco on the 20th [ June, 1848], and found that all, or nearly all, its male inhabitants had gone to the mines. The town, which a few months before was so busy and thriving, was then almost deserted. On the evening of the 24th, the horses of the escort were crossed to Sausoleto in a launch, and on the following day we resumed the journey, by way of Bodega and Sonoma, to Sutter's fort, where we arrived on the morning of the 2d of July. Along the whole route, mills were lying idle, fields of wheat were open to cattle and horses, houses vacant, and farms going to waste. At Sutter's there was more life and business. Launches were discharging their cargoes at the river, and carts were hauling goods to the fort, where already were established several stores, a hotel, etc."

From Sutter's Fort, Mason visited the '' Lower Mines, or Mormon diggings," and states: "' As we ascended the south branch of the American fork, the country became more broken and mountainous, and at the sawmill, 25 miles above the lower washings, or 50 miles from Sutter's, the hills rise to about a thousand feet above the level of the Sacramento plain. . . . Mr. Marshall was living near the mill, and informed me that many persons were employed [in digging for gold] above and below him. . . . From

berry}

A Pioneer Of 1850

shall let you know. There are many here who will make but little, and there are many here who would have made more at home.

" I consider this a healthy country if men have the proper diet, and would not expose themselves. I am much better to-day, and present indications seem to warrant the belief that I will soon be well.

"No man should come to this country who has a family. Young men like myself, with few claims on them at home, may be excused, but a man with a family has no excuse. And allow me here to state my honest conviction at this time in regard to men coming

to this country.

the mill, Mr. Marshall guided me up the mountain on the opposite or north bank of the south fork." Col. Mason then visited Weber's Creek, where he consulted with Capt. Weber. " These latter [the side valleys of Weber's Creek] are exceedingly rich, and two ounces were considered an ordinary yield for a day's work... . The only impression seemed to be, that the metal would be found in such abundance as seriously to depreciate in value. . . . I have no hesitation, now, in saying that there is more gold in the country drained by the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, than will pay the cost of the present war with Mexico a hundred times over. No capital is required to obtain this gold, as the laboring man wants nothing but his pick and shovel, and tin pan, with which to dig and wash the gravel; amd many frequently pick gold out of the crevices of rocks with their butcher knives, in pieces of from one to six ounces." (Italics ours).

i Wigs ae

Cwhers The Could Comes From.

From a sketch by Frank Marryat

SACRAMENTO IN 1850 From [Letts "A pictorial view of California"

The Diggings

"Tf a man is in any business that he can make a living, tell him never to think of coming here. If he can live at all, tell him to stay where he is; this he can do anywhere in the United States if he will work, and if he won't work, he had better turn his face to some other clime than this.*

"We have received the news that California is admitted as a state. Our faithful old President is no more — no news could have been more unexpected. How uncertain is life! Hon. Millard Fillmore is not

+ Ex. Doc. No. 17, 31st Congress, 1st Session, [Ho. of Reps.], contains another report pertinent to this subject. In July, 1849, Brevet Brig. Gen. Bennet Riley, Col. Mason's successor as governor of California, visited the gold fields and in turn submitted his official report, in August of that year. He says, p. 788: " The old placers are still exceedingly productive, and new ones are almost daily discovered in the smaller streams running from the western slope of the Sierra Nevada into the great valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers. ;

"I am satisfied, however, from personal observation, that very exaggerated accounts have been sent to the United States respecting the ease with which the precious metal is extracted from the earth, and that many who come to this country with the expectation of acquiring sudden wealth, with little or no labor, will be sadly disappointed. It is true that the reward of labor in the mines is very high; but it should not be forgotten that gold digging and gold washing in that climate require strong constitutions and great physical exertions, and very few need expect to acquire fortunes by working the p/acers, without severe labor and fixed habits of industry and temperance."

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a John Tyler, thank fortune, and the Whig cause is safe in his hands. With Fillmore for President and the old war-horse, Henry Clay, in the Senate, I have no fear for the safety of the Union. "' Yours, most respectfully, "G. W. Reap "

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Ei Dorado Lost

#}UR next documents reveal a chapter in

the story some ten years later. At this time my father owned a grain and fruit ranch in the Sacramento valley, near Yolo, and, together with his partners, a gold mine upon which they placed a high value. In the summer of 1862, he returned to the East to visit his mother, then in failing health. The following letters, written to a favorite niece, tell the story of his return to California in December of that year. This was a journey fraught with disastrous delays — delays which cost him his share in the mine, sold soon afterward for a

substantial fortune.

First Letter

"' Free Soil,'

" My dear T—, " November 29, 1860

" A little respite from duty this evening permits me to hold converse with what was my little, but is doubt-

1 His ranch near Yolo. ©

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less my big, girl now. Your kind and most certainly welcome letter was received in due time, and should have been answered, as well as some two or three from Emma long since, but the political duties were so pressing that I neglected everything for a month before the election. You will have learned before this reaches you that we gave the state to Old Abe. In my county, one of the strongest for slavery in the state, we increased our vote from 130 to 517. I wasa candidate for the Legislature, but was beaten by a few MGLES) nie

"Nov. 30. 8 o'clock in the evening.

"TI was called out last night, and have been from home all day. I must fill my sheet for the stage passes early in the morning. . . . You must be cheerful, contented and happy. Give my love and kindest re-

gards to all, and write soon. '" Uncite GrorcE."

Second Letter "St. Nicholas Hotel, " New York City, " My dear T—, " Nov. 30", 1862 "T landed in this city Friday evening, ten o'clock, tired and sleepy. Took supper, read an hour, retired.

[area fs

El Dorado Lost

After a refreshing night's sleep and breakfast in the morning, learned that the new line of Steamers had changed to the Panama route, and would not sail until the 1 December. Had I known of this, I could have spent ten days in Brighton. I was here now, and must make the best of matters as they stood. I went to the old Co. office,* and found it crowded with men, women and children. There was but one state room left when my turn came. I was just securing a berth in that when three Ladies made an appeal to my gallantry, to give up the room to them. One was a married Lady, with two sweet pretty little girls.

" This was a fix. You will, I know, say that Uncle George gave up the room. So he did, and in doing so takes chances, most likely, to sleep on the table for 8 nights. But the agent promised me my. gallantry

Otis, " Illustrated History of the Panama Railroad; Together with a Traveler's Guide and Business Man's Hand-Book for the Panama Railroad and its Connections with Europe, the United States, the North and South Atlantic and Pacific coasts, China, Australia and Japan, by Sail and Steam," New York, 1862, pp. 147-148: " The Atlantic and Pacific Steam-Ship Company, running between New York and Aspinwall [now Colon] direct, connecting at Panama, by the Panama Railroad, with the Pacific Mail Steam-Ship Company's steamers for California. . . . The

usual passage of these steamers between New York and Aspinwall is from eight to nine days."

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should not go unrewarded, so I shall rest easy. You need have no fears for me not getting comfortable quarters somewhere aboard the old ¢wd.

" The day is a most lovely one. Yesterday it rained all day. I went to Brady's to be photoed, but it was too dark, so you will get none from here. I will send from the other slope of our continent if I land there safely. I should go to the Park today, but shall wait till my return, when I will, I hope, have more time. I am more than usually sad at leaving you'll

Thope to see you all soon again.

" UncLe GEORGE.""

Third Letter

"¢ Aspinwall, New Granada,

( Decei1 3s 5Ge "My dear T—,

"''We stepped ashore at this place at 9 o'clock last evening, and were to have crossed to the Pacific side at 6 this morning, but some of the Cars were disabled by accident, and a detention of 8 hours is the result. So having time, I improve it by penning you a line.

"We sailed 3 o'clock on Monday the first. The weather was unpleasant, and the boat crowded to ca-

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pacity with Human beings, and some scarcely human. The confusion and discomfort on board surpassed anything by far I have ever before experienced. The cooking was filthy beyond my powers of description. The smell and filth, with the rough sea, has kept me seasick most of the time. I have gone two days without eating or drinking.*

" Sunday, at 34 of the clock, the 290, or Alabama, Privateer, took us prisoners. I was at dinner, and came up as soon as I ate a plain cooked potato. I left the

t Browne, Charles Farrar, "Artemus Ward; His Travels." New York, 1865. Artemus Ward left New York for Aspinwall on the same ship, the Ariel, in October, 1863 — almost a year later. Pp. 126-128, he says: " We might have enjoyed ourselves very well, I fancy, if the Ariel, whose capacity was about three hundred and fifty passengers, had not on this occasion carried nearly nine hundred, a hundred at least of whom were children of an unpleasant age. . . . She is a miserable tub at best, and hasn't much more right to be afloat than a second-hand coffin has. I do not know her proprietor, Mr. C. Vanderbilt. But I know of several excellent mill privileges in the State of Maine, and not one of them is so thoroughly Dam'd as he was all the way from New York to Aspinwall. I had far rather say a pleasant thing than a harsh one; but it is due to the large number of respectable ladies and gentlemen who were on board the steamer Ariel with me that I state here that the accommodations on that steamer were very vile. . . . On the whole I should prefer a voyage on the Erie Canal, where there isn't any danger, and where you can carry picturesque scenery along with you —so to speak."

Liga J

A Pioneer Of 1850

table and went to the hurricane deck, and the first thing I saw was a ship with the Rebel flag flying. 1 knew it was the 290 at first sight. They had fired a blank cartridge across our bows while I was below, and we had not heard it. When I first saw her she was coming up behind us, a mile and a half in our rear, as near as I could guess. She is a splendid ship, and could sail around us with ease. The Capt. put on all steam, and hoped he could get off, but she turned broadsides, and shot two heavy balls. I stood on deck, close to the aft, or back, mast. Saw the smoke rise, the balls leave the guns and come tumbling and whizzing towards me. They made a big noise on either side of me. A number were on deck, but decreased very rapidly the first minute after the balls passed. One hit the forward mast, and cut it one half off. The space made by the ball through the mast was 8 inches in diameter. The Capt. stopped the engine, and lowered our flag in double quick time, I assure you. They sent a small boat with the Lieutenant and 7 or 9 men, I forget which; he came aboard and spoke very courteously to the Capt., and told him he wished the keys of the store room and men to open it for him, which was of

course rapidly, complied with. They took $4 5,000 in [ 132]

Puy aya f

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"THIXVY MAWVaALS Tew

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0 santo say 'svmoy T'D YN 4p 4@ stays v mo4Ly

(062) VNVIVTY AHLAG S$ ° 1 @ HL ONS Mel ce usOmcmetnt:

Ee Dorado: Lost

treasure, 200 good new Enfields, I suppose, and all the swords and pistols of the officers and paroled them.*

See Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper, January 10, 1863, pp- 241-242, for an account of " the capture of the U. S. mail steamer Ariel, Capt. Jones, off the east end of Cuba, by the Pirate Alabama, (290), Capt. Semmes, December 7," written by the purser of the Ariel. Semmes was an Annapolis man, who joined the South upon the outbreak of the rebellion. " His career since has been one of unexampled energy, and his track may be followed in the light of the burning vessels he has captured." The purser's account follows:

"On the 7th of December, at 1.30 p.m., when rounding Cape Maysi, the eastern point of Cuba, we saw a vessel about four miles to the westward, close under the high land of Cuba, bark-rigged and under canvas. As there was nothing in her appearance indicating her to be a steamer, her smokepipe being down, no suspicions were aroused, till in a short time we saw she had furled her sails, raised her smokestack, and was rapidly nearing us under steam, the American flag flying at her peak. Such was her speed in comparison to ours, that in about half an hour she had come up within half a mile of us, when she fired a lee gun, hauled down the American ensign and ran up the rebel flag. No attention was paid to the summons, and the Ariel was pushed to her utmost speed.

'She then sailed across our wake, took a position on our port quarter, about 400 yards distant, and fired two guns almost simultaneously, one shot passing over the hurricane deck, between the walking-beam and smokestack, and the other hitting the foremast, and cutting it half away.

"A body of United States marines, consisting of 126 men, passengers on board the Ariel, had been drawn up and armed; but the officers in command deemed it worse than folly to resist, as we could plainly see they were training a full broadside to bear

Bene

A Pioneer Of 1850

" We were passing the east end of Cuba at the time. You can see it on the map. Hayti on the east, and Cuba west. After taking all they wanted they put a sufficient number of officers and sailors on board and took entire charge of the vessel, and ran up under the lee shore of Cuba and lay until morning. Then took us up to the west side of the east end of Cuba, and disabled our vessel by taking part of the engine on their boat, taking all our sails but one, the Spanker, I believe. They all left us then for the night. A more gloomy and sad crew was seldom, if ever, seen. 900 men, women and children, 300 of the latter. The wind, from a stiff breeze during the afternoon, fresh-

upon us, and Capt. Jones gave orders to stop the ship and haul down the ensign.

" A boat then put off to us, and the boarding officer, on coming aboard, at once assured the passengers that none should be molested, and that all baggage and private property should be respected. He then demanded the keys of the special locker, together with all the ship's papers and letters, and informed the captain he must be in readiness to go on board the Alabama with him, where he was detained as a hostage until the next day.

"The money in the ship, amounting to $9,500, was taken off, and a prize crew, 20 in number, all well armed, put on board. The engine-room was taken in charge by two engineers from the Alabama. The officers and marines on board the Ariel were paroled, and their arms taken, as well as some belonging to the ship."

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ened to a young gale, and our prospects were anything but pleasing, I assure you. Jeff Davis was cursed by many not much given to that way of blessing, during the three hours we drifted and tumbled about in the old ship Ariel. The Sailors were pumping most of the time, with 6 feet of water in the hold. I thought but little of myself. The little children, particularly girls, of whom there are a number in our crowd," I have never seen surpassed in beauty and loveliness, except by my own little Nieces of twelve years ago, E. and T. But the Captain of the Alabama became alarmed, returned our machinery, took charge once more of our boat, and towed us to Hayti, to a little town called St. Nicholas Méle, where they had told us from the first they would land us and burn the ship."

1 All bound, like himself, for California; hence still traveling in company, although they have left the Ariel.

? Harper's Weekly. A Journal of Civilization, January 3, 1863, p. 13: " He [Semmes] always refused to fight a ship-ofwar. . . . He took command of the British pirate Alabama, and went to sea on 29th June last. His subsequent exploits are fresh in the memory of our readers. He burned ten whalers off the Azores; half a dozen merchantmen between New York and Liverpool; and some small trading craft in the West Indies, At latest dates he was coaling at Martinique."

Ibid., Nov. 1, 1862, p. 699: " Captain Hager of the Brilliant one of the vessels taken and burned by the A/abama describes her as follows: .. .

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But they changed their minds, and steered for Kingston, Jamaica. We sailed that night, the next day, and that evening, till 11 o'clock at night. Stopped fifteen

miles from Kingston, spoke a schooner, came back,

"He gives the following additional information, which will be found interesting and important:

"In all cases where Captain Semmes captures a vessel, he sends an armed boat on board and orders the unfortunate captain on board the Alabama with his papers... .

" When Captain Hagar left-the Alabama there were between forty and fifty of the crews of the different vessels she had destroyed still on board. They were confined below in irons, in the most miserable condition. They were where every drop of rain fell on them, and every sea that came aboard the vessel washed over them, and the poor fellows were in a terrible plight, having lost everything, with the vessels they belonged to... .

"The plan that Semmes has adopted to bring fish to his net is as follows: It will be seen at a glance that the position he was last reported in was in the track of many vessels bound to and from Europe. This is the position he has chosen to do the greatest possible amount of destruction; and he certainly has been most successful, Whenever he captures a ship, after taking from her all that he and his officers want, he lays by her until dark, and then sets her on fire. The light of the burning ship can be seen many miles, and every other ship within seeing distance stands toward the light, thinking to rescue a number of poor fellows from destruction. The pirate keeps in the immediate vicinity awaiting the prey that is sure to come, and the next morning the poor fellows who have, to serve the cause of humanity, gone many miles out of their course, find themselves under the guns of the Alabama, with the certainty that before another twenty-four hours they will share the fate of the ship they came to serve."

El Dorado Lost

sent for our Capt., reported yellow fever at Kingston, took $250,000 bonds,* and let us off. We remained there until morning, ran in within two miles of shore, and signalled for a boat, and one in charge of three darkies soon hauled up to our ship and took letters off to the Consul at Kingston, giving all the particulars of our Capture, detention, etc. The darkies said there were no cases of yellow fever on the Island this season, so we suppose the Alabama learned from the schooner that one of our men of war was at Kingston, and thought best to leave us. She lowered her chimney stack, closed her hatches, and set sail, looking the exact counterpart of a merchant vessel. She will do much damage, and destroy millions of property, I fear, before she is taken.

"TI never felt so indignant as I did when cut throats were over me with sword and pistol, and I a prisoner;

Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper, loc. cit., p. 242: " Finding it dangerous to venture into Kingston, Jamaica, to land the passengers, Capt. Semmes took a bond for $260,000, payable six months after the recognition of the Southern Confederacy, and released the Ariel. The accuracy of the rebel gunnery was proved by the fact that one of the shots went clean through the foremast. We give a sketch of its appearance when it was repaired by fishing a spar. The buttons of the officers [of the Alabama] are of the best Birmingham manufacture."

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A Pioneer Of 1850

yet it is an Episode in my life that I now don't regret having passed through. The Alabama carries 6 guns on a side, not surpassed by any battery of the same size in the world. All in all, she is an ugly, a very ugly, customer. I hope to hear soon that one of our men of war has met and captured her. You will see all the particulars in print, so I shall close on the Alabama.

" This is a poor place; niggers poor, lazy, and lousy. Spaniards, little if any better. Americans, drinking, smoking and swearing all the time. Taken as a whole, it presents a phase of humanity repulsive in the extreme to me. There was a terrific gale here 23d last month. The English mail steamer parted part of her cables, broke the others, and drifted upon the rocks, — coral, I believe, —in front of the town, and lies, I suppose, a total wreck."

". . . You must not fail to write me all the news, and all you would have me know. Love to all.

" UNcLE GEORGE."

1 Harpers Weekly, January 27, 1866, p. 62: " The roadstead or port of Aspinwall is very exposed; between the months of October and March tremendous northers visit the coast, and commit great havoc among the wharfs and shipping."

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Fourth Letter

" Pacific Ocean

"On Steamer Constitution, Monday evening, 7 o'clock "My dear T—,

"T pencilled you a line in the Howard House, Aspinwall, on Saturday last, giving you a brief account of my passage from New York to the Isthmus, capture by the 290, etc.

""T took a seat in one of the Panoramic cars at 2 o'clock the same day, and had one of the most pleasant rides I ever experienced, to Panama, 474 miles.' Then went on small boat, which took us four miles out, to where the steamer lay waiting for us. The ride out in the little boat was unpleasant in the extreme. 1000 persons were on it. Few could sit, and between the crowd, and Babies all crying, and all looking for and holding on to baggage, the hour consumed in

1 Harper's Weekly, loc. cit.: "This railroad was constructed by an American company, and is one of the most striking examples of American energy and perseverance. It was commenced in 1850, and finished in five years, being the first railway ever undertaken in a tropical country." It was stated to be the most expensive rail travel in the world, the fare being $25 for the trip, 474 miles, or slightly in excess of fifty cents per mile, 50 lbs. free luggage being allowed.

[ 139 ]

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getting out to the steamer will not soon be forgotten by any one of our crew. But when we came alongside our present ship, one of the most magnificent afloat," we soon forgot the past with all its cares, trials, perplexities, in the enjoyment of the moment. Old travellers pronounce this one of the noblest ships afloat. A more cheerful and happy crew than this one has been since coming aboard this ship could not be imagined. The contrast is so great that we could not be otherwise than pleased, and I think I might add, cheerful and happy. It is now 10 o'clock in the evening, Dec. 15. We sailed 221 miles in the 24 hours preceding 12 n. today. I hope to arrive safely at my journey's end, and indulge the hope of seeing you all again before many months shall have passed. The darkies are putting out the lights; must close for the evening.

Otis, op. cit., p. 148: " The Pacific Mail Steam-Ship Company, running between Panama and San Francisco, California, touching at Manzanilla and Acapulco, Mexico. The steamers of this Company are, the Golden Age, 2280 tons; the Golden Gate, 2067 tons; the Sonora, 1616 tons; the St. Louis, 1621 tons; the Uncle Sam, 1433 tons; the Washington, 1640 tons; the Orizaba, 1450 tons; the Fremont, 559 tons; the California, 1085 tons; the Toboga (tug), 189 tons. The new steam-ship Constitution, 3300 tons, one of the finest steamers afloat, sailed from New York June, 1862, to take her place on the line."

[ 140 ]

The Panama Railroad In 1862

El Dorado Lost

" Dec. 16, evening. Once more I am seated in the dining saloon, one of the finest I have ever seen, pencilling a line for my dear Nieces. Ladies are talking, Babies are crying. When are they not engaged in the same, unless asleep, of course? We ran 240 miles in the last 24 hours. All seem cheerful and in good spirits. One of the little girls is sick, chicken pocks. She is a beautiful but fragile flower, and may not recover, but I think she will. I have eaten very heartily today. Our table is set with the best. Everything is progressing favorably. I shall only add Goodnight for this day. Dec. 18. I omitted writing last evening. It was somewhat rough, and I was on deck until 11

o'clock."

Fifth Letter eC. nLo, 1602 " Supper is over, and I sit down to say. a word to my dear T—. The first cabin takes breakfast at 83, lunch at 12, dinner at 44. Dinner is gotten up and devoured in the most fashionable plan. Soup, chicken, beef, mutton. Then beef or chicken pie, then currie and rice. This is followed by pudding, pies, tea and

coffee, cakes, fruits, and nuts. One and a quarter

hours is required for us to dine.

A PIONEER OF x650

"We are getting on thus far as favorably as we could desire. The 290 is almost forgotten. The dirt and filth of the Ariel seem to have been dismissed from the minds of all. We ran 264 miles yesterday and 227 today. Had hard winds last night, which retarded our progress. We had run, up to 12 today, 1024 miles on this side. The distance is 3270 miles, so we are not one third of the way yet. We hope to get in Saturday week. If we should arrive sooner or later, I will pen you a line the first thing I do on shore. You must write me soon, and give me all news, special and general. Thursday evening, 8 o'clock. Gulf Tehuantepec. Pacific Ocean. Goodnight, my, dear Niece.

"t9, morning. We had a hard blow all night, almost a gale. The water splashed over our ship sometimes. The down steamer is coming, and I must close to send aboard. The morning is calm, clear and beautiful. We are running close to shore. The hills are high and barren. I am very well. I can only add, may God's blessing be with and over you all.

" UNcLE GEORGE."

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Sixth Letter

Sree: soil,

" Jan. 4, 1863 "My dear T—,

"One week since, this Sabbath morning, I landed at Sac. City. I was delighted to stand on old mother earth once more. The trip on this side was pleasant. The ship was the Antipode of the old Ariel in every respect. The Constitution is a new vessel, and one of the most splendid ships afloat. Our fare was good, rooms and beds new and clean, company pleasant, and weather very favorable. I came up home the day before New Year's. I found the old ranch looking fine. The family on it seem to have prospered during the past year. Their crops were all abundant. Wheat, Barley, Peaches, and one of the best of gardens, and last, but I suppose they think not least, is a very cross Boy Baby, being the second Animal of the species born in my house. I suppose Babies are a fine institution, but not on a sea vessel, at least in my opinion.

". .. I have not yet decided what I shall do; most likely though start to practise here, as am strongly importuned to do. Yet I desire to close out

A Pioneer Of 1850

here as soon as I can do so to advantage, and return to live with my friends. Of this more at a future time. I hope to hear from you soon. I might say much of my being a prisoner, but you will see and learn all the particulars from the prints of the day. It forms an episode in my. life not likely to be soon forgotten. I never felt in better or more vigorous health. We were most fortunate on this side [of the Isthmus] in escaping storms. A few days sooner or later would have brought us into a severe gale. I should feel well satisfied with my voyage, its many unpleasant features notwithstanding. In many, very many respects, I have been particularly fortunate, and today I feel that I should not murmur at my lot. Many of my most cherished hopes have been thwarted by seemingly very trivial things, and the disappointment has been the great crisis of my life.* Yet all may result for my good. I never felt more resigned than I do today to my fate, be that what it may. I hope to be a useful citizen and live so that some may imagine at least that I was their friend, and my life was not entirely a blank.

"T feel that I did wrong in leaving Grammie. She

1 Refers to the loss of his mine.

[144 ]

Be Dorado: Lost

will not, I fear, live through the winter, and I should have remained with her. One thing I have settled upon, to pass through the ordeal of bidding my Relatives farewell no more. Such separations have been among the most painful and unpleasant acts of my life. I shall not return, or return, if I do, to remain. Such, my dear Niece, are the feelings now holding sway within me.

"You must give me all the news and write often. I am anxious to hear how they get on at home. .. . I shall only add that you must remember me in all kindness to all acquaintances in Brighton, to all of whom I wish a very happy New Year.

" To you and your household I send my wishes for a happy New Year, with love bounded by my span of life here and I hope hereafter.

" UNcLe GEORGE."

Seventh Letter " Home, Main 30,21363 My dear T—, "] have been here one month, and no line from

Brighton yet. You must have written long ere this,

[145 ]

A Pioneer Of 1850

but some hitch in the Overland has most likely delayed its arrival. I am once more engaged in the pill business. My prospects for a lucrative practice are very promising at present. I am in vigorous health, with my usual energy and desire for active employment. I am hopeful for the future, but this is part and parcel of my nature. The heavy and unlooked for reverses of 1862,° with their effects, are now cast aside and seldom receive a thought from me. I most certainly shall make the effort to repair damages and unfurl sail not in the distant future. . . .

"The weather is rather cool for this time of year — or rather has been since my return — but tonight is warm and beautiful. I am sitting in an upper chamber writing tonight, 9 o'clock, and am comfortable. The farmers are very busily engaged putting in their crops. [he man on our place put in 70 acres of wheat this week. He runs three and four teams. I am pleased with his Lady, but their Baby, four months old, and oh! how cross, I can't. say so much for. Babies are beyond doubt a good institution, but by no means desirable when the evening paper comes in, or you have a letter to write, or some other pleasant duty to attend

1 Refers to the loss of his mine.

[ 146 ]

El Dorado Lost

to. I will have my office out of hearing of Master Ned's music in a few days; then I shall try to write more sensible and certainly more pleasant letters. The people seem much pleased to see me, and greetings warm and pleasant come from all.

"' Our Property is, I think, increasing in value, and other matters present a much more hopeful face than I expected them to. This is all I can say now. You must state to me in detail and without mental reservation the condition of matters generally, within the scope of your observation.—I have trimmed our shade trees in the yard today. They have grown finely. Our orchard did well last season; peaches were the best in flavor and size in the neighborhood.

" Be cheerful, hopeful, and amiable. Consult me in all things you may desire to. Anything you may desire within my power to furnish, ask for without hesitation or reserve... .

" Remember me in much kindness to all Friends, and love to all at the Old Castle.

" Ever the same old UncLE GEORGE."

i)

" P. S. Cousin, Dr. William Henry Shepherd sent me a fine riding horse on the old account. He has

[ 147 ]

A Pioneer Of 1850

been very ill for 7 weeks with inflammatory Rheumatism, but is improving now, and up most of the time. I bought another very fine horse yesterday, so you may. imagine I am preparing for hard riding and hard work. Such is my expectation and desire. My visit did me great good in point of health; being out of practice so long, and not feeling the severe mental anxiety ever connected with the practice [of medicine], I never felt so well as I did a few days after my return. My capture and imprisonment seem as if four centuries had elapsed since then, so rapidly do the events and incidents of life succeed each other.

" The war still drags. I am sickened with our Officers. Strange with such an army no results can be obtained. The Union feeling and sentiment is stronger here than with you. I was present in the capitol a few days since when a vote was taken, in approval of the Proclamation of Freedom. 67 voted for, and 11 against. The Secesh here are open, frank and candid, mainly from the south, and for that reason more tolerable than a northern dough face, pace democrat.

"',. . . When you answer state the feelings, as nearly as you can, of the people on the war question.

If we cannot have better management soon in all de-

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El Dorado Lost

partments, I should say it is too drawn out. I am disgusted with the whole thing as it stands now. May it change for the better, and soon, is my prayer.

© UNcLE GA"

Eighth Letter

"Home, May 13" 1863 "¢ My dear Sister,

"The changes since I left you have caused me many sad moments. The death of our dear good old Mother, the early death of your Grandchild .. . have all produced a deep and lasting impression on my mind. Mother was old, and had well and faithfully discharged all the duties devolving upon Wife, Mother and Citizen. I deeply regret having left her. Had I known the condition of our affairs here I would have remained until spring. She lived to a good old age. ' Well done, good and faithful servant ? can well and in all justice be applied to her. The early death of a flower so lately called into existence is to me ever a source of mixed sensations. Our brightest hopes and fondest anticipations for the future are at once and rudely blasted. Again we may console ourselves that these have escaped all the trials and difficulties that

A Pioneer Of 17850

beset us at every step through life, and in Heaven have found a safe and secure haven of rest and happiness that the innocent and pure alone can realize.' This is, and justly so, a balm for the wounded heart. "Reason and reflection reconcile me to both the above visitations upon our family. . . . You have done much, very much, for the comfort and happiness of our family. And may God bless you for it, is the language of my heart of hearts. . "'T am in my usual good health. Should not com- .plain of business or success. . . . "' Believe me ever your friend and brother,

"¢ George."

Ninth Letter

" Home, " August 3d, 1863 " My dear T—,

"Yours of July 6th is before me... . "You are I hope relieved from all fear of Rebel

Both his father and his mother were Friends, one Orthodox, the other Hicksite, thus entitling him to a birthright in each meeting. While retaining the deep religious simplicity characteristic of this faith, he evidenced also its independence. The moving of the spirit might be his guide, but never the voice or creed of any denomination,

El Dorado Lost

invasion now. Lee found the old Keystone State climate not so agreeable as he supposed he would. Doubtless the last of their efforts in that line.t Frank is I hope with you ere this, and your home the same pleasant happy one it has so long been. You say it seems so lonely since Frank left. Think of me sitting in my room, my, books and papers my only companions. No confidential Friend, — no one I care to confide in. I sometimes feel as though one evening in the Old Castle would afford me more pleasure than for .. . to say that one little word. You can imagine now how intense my desire is to see you and how gloomy and lonely I feel. But, when my thoughts are the most deeply tinged with sadness and regret, a call to the sick chamber, and the duties and responsibilities there occupy all my time and attention. Such is life. I am now in my usual vigorous health. All of my time devoted to the afflicted, in some cases I hope to some profit to all parties. I am sleepy and tired and as it is late will retire.

" August 5". I have time this morning to say a word before the stage comes. . . . Tell Frank to give me

1 Refers to General Lee's effort to invade and hold Pennsylvania, frustrated by his defeat at Gettysburg.

figs]

A Pioneer Of 1850

a detailed history, of his Campaign and the feelings of the people generally on the great topics of the day. I specially desire to hear from him. I can't think that famished Rebel has any chance for an election."

" Love to all,

" UncLE GEORGE."

Tenth Letter

Stlome;

" August 20, 1863 "My dear T—,

" Yours of July 23 is at hand. A thousand thanks for it. You cannot imagine the pleasure it gives me to hear from you all. . . . I should not, and will not, complain. I confess to having a strong desire to be with those I love at home; yet I can do more for them perhaps by remaining where I am, for a time at least. Crops have failed this season here, and farms will not be so much in demand, nor will they rate so high as they would, had there been bountiful crops. I am one thousand dollars loser by the failure lof the crops]. This will all be changed during the succeeding

Refers apparently to Secretary of the Treasury Salmon P. Chase, and his inordinate ambition to be nominated Republican candidate for President instead of Lincoln, his chief.

[152]

——-

Cie ROKADO LOST

season. To hold them can only be an act of ordinary foresight and prudence.

"The war still drags. Hooker is, I fear, not the man. His failure, to say the least, is by no means promising of much better things. We were badly sold here by the Telegraph reports that Richmond was taken, and Lee and Jackson prisoners. This was followed by what proves to be reliable, — that Hooker was repulsed, that he ran from when he should have run az the Rebels. I hope some man of bravery and genius may come to the surface soon. I am as strong in my feelings for General Frémont as when I was with you. One point is clear and certain; he is in earnest and desires the overthrow of the Rebellion soon and summarily. I do wish they would

give him command of the Army of the Potomac two

'weeks.

" T hope to hear from you soon, and fear to hear that Brighton may have lost some of her sons in the late battle. We have some excitement here. The Secesh are making an effort to carry the state this fall. They must be victorious, or it will be their death strug-

1 Refers to the Battle of Gettysburg, in which New Brighton's toll of dead, wounded and missing was heavy.

Lisl

A Pioneer Of 1850

gle. I think we can beat them. I shall have to enter the lists and tilt a lance with the champions of the south who sail through under pretended Union colours. I am offered a place on the ticket, but shall not accept, as I don't have any aspirations in that line

"We have apricots so nearly ripe that Madam Mapes uses them for sauce. Our orchard is very full of peaches. I wish I could send you a barrel or two every week. Love to all.

"Uncle George."

Eleventh Letter

" Austin, [ Nevada]

" Nov. 29, 1863 " My dear T—,

"Sunday evening. I have been out twelve miles and back to see a sick Friend, and look at the country. No church or place of innocent amusement here. The Society, here is perhaps the most loose and rough that were ever collected at any one point, since Noah's time. It averages from one to three men every day shot. The most reckless and wicked men I have ever come in contact with, but I find plenty of good, honest

and pleasant men. I enjoy myself, as usual, with a

El Dorado Lost

few pleasant and intelligent men. I am looking over the country. My opinion now is that the richness in precious metals is by no means so great as supposed at a distance. I am getting some claims, but am not flattered much with the prospect.*

This letter was written during a visit to the newly opened silver mining district in Nevada. Richardson, op. cit., pp. 369, 370, 371, 375: " Austin is the metropolis of the Reese-river district and the most important mining region of Nevada, except Virginia City. It is built upon innumerable slender, parallel veins of ore, threading a belt of country one mile wide and five in length. This was the young portion of Nevada. Virginia City, boasted a hoary antiquity of five years. But only two years and a half had passed since the first pick was struck, the first-vein opened, and the first cabin erected in Austin. The first discovery of silver here was made by Talcott, a pony-express rider, in July, 1862. The usual excitement and rush of immigrants followed By day, Austin was quiet — more than half the inhabitants working under ground; but at night it flashed up into life and its brilliantly lighted saloons with open fronts, were filled with motley crowds, absorbed in monte and other forms of play, inseparable from young mining regions. . . . All machinery and supplies came from California, hauled by mules three hundred miles through the Sierras and over the desert at from ten to twelve cents per pound. . . . The region was turning out two hundred thousand dollars of silver per month. Hundreds of thousands of dollars had been squandered by eastern companies in purchasing worthless mines and erecting mills upon them. The Austin silver veins are very narrow, containing ores rich but intractable and difficult to reduce. . . . Of the hundreds [of

- silver veins] opened in Nevada but few have yet proved remunerative. Many companies after immense expenditure reap only assessments.""

[155]

A Pioneer Of 1850

" T expect to return to California in a few days. I should be most gratified to hear from you soon and have all particulars of things. .. .

" The weather continues cool, but clear. The knowing ones say it will snow soon. The trip home is not a desirable one. The snows on the Sierra Nevada may be deep, but the Overland Stage keeps the road open." I will pen you a line in a few days. I hope you are all happy and healthy. Love to all.

" Uncie GEorcE."

Twelfth Letter

" Free Soil,

" Dec. 23, 1863 " My dear T—,

"I am seated once more at my old desk. I left Reese river on the 7", and drove through the gate

1 [bid., p. 600: "Civilization began to push eastward from the Pacific. In the Washoe country, now Nevada, was found abundant quartz rock, and sparkling with silver. A rush to Washoe followed, and a great State was founded. The travel and traffic grew so enormous that a turnpike was soon built from Placerville, California, over the seemingly insurmountable Sierras. The machinery and other freights passing over it in a single year paid tolls to the amount of three hundred thousand dollars (gold), and the cost of transporting them was estimated at thirteen millions, or more than twice their original value."

[156]

Ee ee

Be Dorado Lost

here on the evening of the 19'. I soon made myself comfortable in the house. The Gentleman and Lady living on the place met me at the gate, and the two little boys, and were all glad to see me, and the supper and evening passed very pleasantly. I had a bath at the City and a change of apparel also, a change that added much to my comfort. I appreciate clean clothes, faces and hands, etc., etc., more highly than ever before. I have dined from home every day, since my return. . . . My trip improved my, health. " Unc ie GEorGE."

This closes the record of his western adventure, as it has come down to me. Emigrant across the plains in 1850, he traveled from California to New York via the Isthmus of Panama and the recently completed Panama Railway in 1856 and again in 1862, and crossed the continent by rail in 1869, shortly after the completion of the transcontinental railroad in May of that year. With the sale of his ranch after his death in 1880, the last material tie with the West was broken, and there remained, not gold, but only the impalpable wealth of his experiences, his efforts, and his hopes.

[157]

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The race is not always to the swift, nor the battle to the strong, and the fact that, even in adversity, he displayed the same consideration for others, the same spontaneous generosity, as before; that, within a few months — indeed, within a few weeks — of the loss of his fortune, he had the fortitude, the philosophy, and the strength of will to write:

"' In many, very many respects, I have been particularly fortunate, and today I feel that I should not murmur at my lot. Many of my most cherished hopes have been thwarted by seemingly, very trivial things, and the disappointment has been the great crisis of my life. Yet all may result for my good. I have never felt more resigned than I do today to my fate, be that what it may." . . . "I am hopeful for the future, but this is part and parcel of my nature. The heavy and unlooked for reverses of 1862, with their effects, are now cast aside and seldom receive a thought from me. I most certainly shall make the effort to repair damages and unfurl sail not in the distant future,"

is perhaps worth more to his children than if he had bequeathed to them the richest mine in El Dorado County. Money is worth much, and none

[158 ]

ae ts ee ie te

El Dorado Lost

that has not earned his bread in the sweat of his brow, literally or metaphorically speaking, knows how bitter such earning may be. Yet there are things that are worth more than money, and heritages richer than

gold. zi

Tue Enp

Bibliography

Abbey, James: "California. A Trip across the Plains, in the Spring of 1850, Being a Daily Record of Incidents of the Trip over the Plains, the Desert, and the Mountains, Sketches of the Country, Distances from Camp to Camp, etc., and Containing Valuable Information to Emigrants, as to Where they Will Find Wood, Water, and Grass at Almost Every Step of the Journey." New Albany, Indiana,

The Art Journal for 1877. New Series, v. 3. New York, 1877.

[Browne, Charles Farrar): " Artemus Ward; His Travels." New York, 1865.

Bryant, Edwin: " What I Saw in California: Being the Journal of a Tour, by the Emigrant Route and South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, Across the Continent of North America, the Great Desert Basin, and through California, in the Years 1846, 1847." Second edition, New York, 1848.

Burton, Richard F.: "The City of the Saints, and Across the Rocky Mountains to California." With I1- lustrations. New York, 1862.

Catlin, Geo.: " Illustrations of the Manners, Cus-

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Colton, J. H.: "The Western Tourist and Emigrant's Guide Through the States of Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Ilinois, Missouri, lowa, and Wisconsin, and the Territories of Minesota, Missouri, and Nebraska: Being an Accurate and Concise Description of Each State and Territory; and Containing the Routes and Distances on the Great Lines of Travel." Accompanied with a large and minute map, exhibiting the township lines of the United States' surveys, the boundaries of counties, and the position of cities, villages and settlements, etc., etc. New York: Published by J. H. Colton, 1850. Numerous later editions.

Dana, Charles A.: " The United States Illustrated; in Views of City and Country." With Descriptive and Historical Articles, Edited by Charles A. Dana. 2 vols. New York, n. d. [Circa 1853].

Delano, A (lonzo|: " Life on the Plains and Among the Diggings; being Scenes and Adventures of an Overland Journey to California: With Particular Incidents of the Route, Mistakes and Sufferings of

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[Delano, Alonzo]: " Old Block's Sketch Book; or, Tales of California Life." Illustrated with Numerous Elegant Designs, by, Nahl, The Cruikshank of California. Sacramento, 1856.

Dunbar, Seymour: " A History of Travel in America Being an Outline of the Development in Modes of Travel from Archaic Vehicles of Colonial Times to the Completion of the First Transcontinental Railroad: the Influence of the Indians on the Free Movement and Territorial Unity of the White Race: the Part Played by Travel Methods in the Economic Conquest of the Continent: and Those Related Human Experiences, Changing Social Conditions and Governmental Attitudes which Accompanied the Growth of a National Travel System." 4 vols. Indianapolis, 1915.

" The Encyclopedia Britannica. A Dictionary of Arts, Sciences, Literature and General Information." The Three New Supplementary Volumes Constituting With The Volumes of the Latest Standard Edition The Thirteenth Edition. London and New York,

Frémont, Brevet Captain J. C.: "Report of the Exploring Expedition to the Rocky Mountains in the

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Harpers Weekly. A Journal of Civilization. New York.

Hittell, Theodore H.: "History of California." 4 vols. San Francisco, 1898.

Howe, Henry: "Historical Collections of the Great West: Containing Narratives of the Most Im- - portant and Interesting Events in Western History — Remarkable Individual Adventures— Sketches of Frontier Life — Descriptions of Natural Curiosities: To Which is Appended Historical and Descriptive Sketches of Oregon, New Mexico, Texas, Minnesota, Utah and California." Illustrated with Numerous Engravings. 2 vols. in 1. Cincinnati, 1851, and numerous later editions.

Inman, Colonel Henry: "The Old Santa Fé Trail." The Story of a Great Highway. Topeka, I9T4.

Irving, Washington: " The Rocky Mountains: or, Scenes, Incidents, and Adventures in the Far West; Digested from the Journal of Captain B. L. E. Bonneville, of the Army of the United States, and Illustrated from Various Other Sources." 2 vols. Philadelphia, 1837.

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Lets, J. M.]: "A Pictorial View of California; Including a Description of the Panama and Nicaragua Routes, with Information and Advice Interesting to All, Particularly Those Who Intend to Visit the Golden Region." By A Returned Californian. New York, 1853.

M?Kenney and Hall: "History of the Indian Tribes of North America, with Biographical Sketches and Anecdotes of the Principal Chiefs, Embellished with One Hundred and Twenty Portraits, from the Indian Gallery in the Department of War, at Washington." By Thomas L. M'Kenney, Late of the Indian Department, Washington, and James Hall, Esq. of Cincinnati. 3 vols. Philadelphia, 1838-1844.

Marcy, Randolph B., Captain U. S. Army: "The Prairie Traveler." A Hand-Book for Overland Expeditions. With Maps, Illustrations, and Itineraries of the Principal Routes between the Mississippi and the Pacific. Published by. Authority of the War Department. New York, 1859.

Marryat, Frank: "Mountains and Molehills or Recollections of a Burnt Journal." With Illustrations by the Author. London, 1855.

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Ouis, F. N.: "Illustrated History of the Panama Railroad; Together with a Traveler's Guide and Business Man's Hand-Book for the Panama Railroad and its Connections with Europe, the United States, the North and South Atlantic and Pacific Coasts, China, Australia, and Japan, by Sail and Steam." Second edition, New York, 1862. Also later editions.

Palmer, Joel: " Journal of Travels over the Rocky Mountains, to the Mouth of the Columbia River; Made during the Years 1845 and 1846: Containing Minute Descriptions of the Valleys of the Willamette, Umpqua, and Clamet; A General Description of Oregon Territory; its Inhabitants, Climate, Soil, Productions, Etc., Etc.; a List of Necessary Outfits for Emigrants; and a Table of Distances from Camp to Camp on the Route. Also; A Letter from the Rev. H. H. Spalding, resident Missionary, for the last ten years, among the Nez Percé Tribe of Indians, on the

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Parrish, Randall: "The Great Plains." The Romance of Western American Exploration, Warfare, and Settlement, 1527-1870. Chicago, 1907.

Richardson, Albert D.: " Beyond the Mississippi: From the Great River to the Great Ocean. Life and Adventure on the Prairies, Mountains, and Pacific Coast." With More Than Two Hundred Illustrations, From Photographs and Original Sketches, of the Prairies, Deserts, Mountains, Rivers, Mines, Cities, Indians, Trappers, Pioneers, and Great Natural Curiosities of the New States and Territories. 1857-1867. Hartford, 1867. New Edition, Written Down to Summer of 1869. Hartford, 1869.

Riley, Brevet Brig. Gen. Bennet: Official report, as Governor of California, on the gold region in the summer of 1849, Ex. Doc. No. 17, 31st Congress, [ Ho. of Reps. ], pp. 785-792.

" Route from Liverpool to Great Salt Lake Valley" Illustrated with Steel Engravings and Wood Cuts from Sketches Made by Frederick Piercy, Together with a Geographical and Historical Description of Utah, and a Map of the Overland Routes to

Bibliography

that Territory from the Missouri River. Edited by James Linforth. Liverpool, 1855.

Smith, C. W.: "Journal of a Trip to California Across the Continent from Weston, Mo., to Weber Creek, Cal. in the Summer of 1850." Edited with an Introduction and Notes by R. W. G. Vail, Librarian of the Minnesota Historical Society. New York, n. d. [1920].

Soulé, Gihon and Nisbet: "The Annals of San Francisco; Containing a Summary of the History of the First Discovery, Settlement, Progress, and Present Condition of California, and A Complete History of All the Important Events Connected with its Great City: to Which Are Added, Biographical Memoirs of Some Prominent Citizens." Illustrated with One Hundred and Fifty Fine Engravings. New York, 1355,

Squer, E. G.: formerly chargé @ affaires of the United States to the Republics of Central America: " Notes on Central America; Particularly the States of Honduras and San Salvador: Their Geography, Topography, Climate, Population, Resources, Productions, etc., etc., and the Proposed Honduras Inter- Oceanic Railway." With Original Maps and Illustrations. New York, 1855. 7

Stansbury, Howard: Captain Corps Topographical Engineers, U. S. Army: " Exploration and Survey of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah, Including

[ 170 ]

Bibliography

a Reconnoissance of a New Route Through the Rocky Mountains." Printed by order of the House of Representatives of the United States. Special Session, March, 1851. Senate, Executive, No. 3. Washington,

Van Scoy, Henry L.: Unpublished Journal of a Voyage in Bark Hamilton from Sag Harbor to San Francisco, 1849.

Vivian, A. Pendarves: " Wanderings in the Western Land." With Illustrations from Original Sketches by Mr. Albert Bierstadt and the Author. London,

Webster, Kimball: "The Gold Seekers of ?49." A Personal Narrative of the Overland Trail and Adventures in California and Oregon from 1849 to 1854. With an Introduction and Biographical Sketch by George Waldo Browne. Illustrated by Frank Holland and Others. Manchester, N. H., 1917.

Wied, Maximilian, Prince of : " Travels in the Interior of North America." With Numerous Engravings on Wood, and a Large Map. Translated from the German, by H. Evans Lloyd. To accompany the original series of eighty-one TENE coloured plates. London, 1843.

: to Maximilian, Prince of Wied's Travels in the Interior of North America," London, 1844.

[171]

Bibliography

Williams, Henry T.: "The Pacific Tourist." Williams? Illustrated Trans-Continental Guide of Travel from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. Henry T. Williams, Editor. New York, 1878.

[172]

Index

ADVICE To EMIGRANTS, 107, 122-123

Ague, 26

Alabama, Privateer: almost forgotten, 142; Ariel captured by, 131-138, 139; sails from Kingston, 137; ugly customer,

Antelope, dined on, 47; passed camp, 45; seen in distance, 42

Ariel, 8. 8.: bonds taken from, by Alabama, 137, captured by, 131-133, 139, disabled by, 134, machinery of, returned by, 135, released by, 137, towed to Hayti by, 135, towed to Kingston by, 136; filth and discomfort-of, 131, 142, 143; tub, an old, 130

Army of the Potomac, 153

Ash Hollow, 50

Aspinwall [Colon], New Granada, 130, 138, 139

Atlantic and Pacific Steamship Company, 129

Austin, Nevada, richness of minerals in, 155; society of, roughest since Noah's time, 154

BaTTLE OF GETTYSBURG, 153

Bear River: 73, 74, 99, 117-118. See Smith's Fork, Thomas's Fork

Beer Springs, see Soda Springs

Big Blue River, beautiful stream, 27

Big Sandy River, 70, 99, 117

Bison, see Buffalo

Black, William, 20, 83; loses a mule, 34; member Jefterson- California Company, II, 13

Black Hills [Laramie Mountains], 61-62

Brady, Matthew B., 130

Brown, Hiram, 72, 82; member Jefferson-California Company,

P75

Index

Buffalo: chips of, for fuel, 47; meat of, from Indians, 52; steak of, 54

Bull Creek, 19

Burson, James, 17, 18, 26, 27, 29; member Jefferson-California Company, 10, 13

CariFornia: admitted as a state, 123; capitol of, 148; healthy country, 122; hotbed of vice, 111; legislature of, 128; secessionists in, 153; thousands on way to, 29; vote on Proclamation of Freedom in, 148. See also The diggings, Gold region, Hangtown

Canyon, Sierra Nevada, g1—92

Carson River, 87, 88, 89, 100, 119, 120

Central Park, New York City, 130

Chicken-pox, 141

Children of emigrants, 41, 113, 115

Chimney Rock, 52, 55-56, 116

Cholera, 17, 29, 60, 120

Civil War, 148, 153

Clark, Dr. John, 31, 82; member Jefferson-California Company,

Clay, Henry, 124

Clothing, amount carried, 12; Stoga boots, 6

Cold Springs [Humboldt River], 84, 100

Columbia River, headwaters of, 75; watershed of, 76, 79

Commercial Journal of Pittsburgh, letter of George W. Read in, mote 4

Conn, Benjamin, 42, 54, 60, 82; member Jefferson-California Company, 13

Constitution, S. §., dinner on, 141; hailing down steamer from, 142; noble ship, 140, 143

Consul, U. S., at Kingston, 137

Coolwater Creek, 78

Court House Rock, a' curiosity, 116; through the Telescope, 52; visited, 54

Index

Cramp colic, 41 Cuba, 134

Davis, JEFFERSON, 135

Devil's Gate, 67

Diggings, The: bad for morals, 109-1113 cost of provisions in, 120; distance from Missouri River, 106; many sicken in, 109; reached by Jefferson-California Company, 98, 120. See also California, Gold region, Hangtown

Dissension in Jefferson-California Company, 42-43, 57-58

Distances traveled, summary of, 99-100

Dunn, James, 82; breaks his wagon tongue, 20; member Jefferson-California Company, 10, 13

Ext Dorapo County, CaLirornia, 158

Elephant, The, 5, 18, 31, 65, 105

Emigrants: 42, 57, 73, 157: advice to, 107, 122-123; at Platte River Ferry, 65, at Carson River, 88, at St. Joseph, 8-9; careless in choosing stock, 9; causes of death among, in California, 109-111; children of, 41, 113, 115; Cold Springs a Godsend to, 84; disappointment of, 105; disbanding, 57; encampments of, 19, 21, 38, 48, 51; health of, 29, in '49, 29, 41; making hay for Great Desert, 85; more numerous than in 49, 34; no favors for, at Fort Kearney, 112; returning, discouraged, 31; road crowded with, 23, 26, 30, 33, 51, 55, 56, 60; saleratus gathered by, 117; traveling afoot, 37; wagons abandoned by, 83, 86-87, 119

Emigration, of 1850 greater than that of '49, 34; healthier than that of 749, 29, 41

Fittmore, Hon. Miiiarp, 123, 124

Fontanelle Creek, 71

Fort Hall Road, 74, 77, 99, 100, 118

Forts: Bridger, mote 77; Hall, wote 77; Kearney, distance from Ford of the Platte, 50, situation charming, 39; Laramie,

yon

Index

Forts: (Continued) bread bought at, 61, distance from Plum Creek, 40-41, letters sent back from, 61; Sutter's, xviii Free Soil" ranch, 127; 143, 146, 147, 4525 1505257 Frémont, General J. C., 153

French, James, 54; member Jefferson-California Company, 10,

GeTTysBuRG, BATTLE OF, 153

Gold region, of the West, 3, 8, 33, 120-122; on Kansas River, 12. See also Californias.The diggings, Hangtown

Goose Creek, 77, 78, 100

Grant, Col) 175.21

Gray, Franklin J., 68, 83; member Jefferson-California Com- PanyotS

Great Desert, 85, 86-87, 88, 100, 119

Great Salt Lake, 118

Green River, 70, 71, 72. See Ham's-Fork

Gréene County, (Pa, 354... 55-135. 75311033 644

Grizzly bear, trail of, 97

Gulf Tehuantepec, 142

Ham's Forx, GREEN River, 72

Hangtown [Placerville] xviii, 97, 98, 103. See also California, The diggings, Gold region

Hayti, 134, 135

Hedspeth's Cut Off, see Myres' Cut Off

Hooker, General Joseph, 153

Houlsworth, John, 72, 82; member Jefferson-California Company, II, 13

Howard House, Aspinwall, 139

Hudspeth's Cut Off, see Myres' Cut Off

Humboldt River, animals mired in, 79, 80, 118; Cold Springs of, 84, 100; ford of, 79, 81; last water of, 86; Sink of, 86, 100, 118, 119; sloughs of, 80, 118; water unwhole-

some, 85 [178 ]

Index

INDEPENDENCE, beautifully situated, 6; Company collected at, 4; near western frontier, 3; temporary camp near, Fig tk?

Independence Landing, see Wayne City

Independence Road, junction of, with St. Joe Road, 29, 30, 32

Independence Rock, 66, 99, 116

Indian chief's son, 51

Indians, encampment of, 51; passed by Company, 45. See Pawnee Indians, Potawatomi, Sioux Indians

Irrigation, suggested, 111

Islands of the Platte, 39, 45, 112

Jacxson County, Mo., 17

Jackson, General " Stonewall," reported a prisoner, 153

Jamaica, 136

Jaundice and chills, 106

Jefferson-California Company, contract of, referred to, 42; equipment and personnel of, 10, 12-13; dissension within, 42-43, 57-58; goes fishing, 21; goes hunting, 67; leaves Greene County, Pa., 3, Independence, Mo., 17; military formation of camps of, 106; provisions of, 10; reaches: Bear River, 72, Carson River, 87, Fort Kearney, 39, Fort Laramie, 60, Goose Creek, 77, Green River, 70, Hangtown [Placerville], 98, Humboldt River, 79, Sink of, 86, junction, Independence and St. Joe Roads, 28, 29, 30, Salt Lake and Fort Hall Roads, 77, Leek Springs, 96, Myres' [Hudspeth's] Cut Off, 74, Pacific Spring, 69, Platte River, 38, Ferry, North Fork, 65, 114-115, Ford, South Fork, 49- 50, 113, Raft River, 76, Sierra Nevada, 89, Soda Springs, 73, South Pass, 68, Sublette's Cut Off, 69; shoe their mules, 67; some of, abandon wagons, 81-82, 83; some push ahead, 81-82; summary of route of, with distances traveled, 99—

Jefferson City, Mo., 52

Jefferson, Greene County, Bay OLcesa Sgn lOS

[179 ]

Index

Jones, Captain, S. S. Ariel, 132, 137 Jump Off, The, 4

Kansas River, bottoms of, beautiful, 27; ferry of, 24; gold reported on, 12; missionary station on, 24

Kingston, Jamaica, 136, 137

Knives, desired by Pawnees, 35

Laramie Fork, Platte River, beautiful stream, 114; ford of, 60-61; junction of, with Platte, 61

Laramie Peak, 62, 63-64

Lassen's Meadows [The big meadows], extent of, 118; making hay at, 85

Lee, General Robert E., 151; reported a prisoner, 153

Leek Springs, 96

Legislature of California, 128

Lewis, Isaac, 82; member Jefferson-California Company, 13

Lincoln, Abraham, 128

Little Blue River, a most delightful creek, 37; spring in bottom of, 33

Little Sandy River, 69

Long, Richard, 105

Lowes, Dr., grave of, 41

Matone, Roserr, grave of, 30

Mary's River, see Humboldt River

Meadows, see Lassen's Meadows

Meegan, Charles, attacked by cholera, 17; secretary, Jefferson- California Company, 12, 18; sells outfit and remains behind, 21

Millsborough, Pa., 13

Mines, better in '49 than in '50, 120-121

Missionary station on Kansas River, 24-25

Mississippi River, 4

Missouri River, 4, 6, 29, 106

Missouri, State of, 3, 17, 30, 52

Index

Mitchner, Uriah, 68, 83; member Jefferson-California Company, 13

Monongahela River, 98, 114

Morgantownship, Greene County, Pa., 4

Mormon Road, near Green River, 69; west of Fort Laramie, 63, 64

Mormons, 118

Morris, Asa, 27, 83; attacked by ague, 26, mumps, 21; member Jefferson-California Company, 11, 13

Mumps, 21

Myres' Cut Off, distance from Humboldt River, 118, Salt Lake Road, 77, Soda Springs, 73, 99; length of, 76, 118; water on, 74

NEAL, Barney, 18, 37, 54, 68, 82; member Jefferson-California Company, 12

Nevada, 154

New Brighton, Pa., 4, 129, 145, 153

New Granada, 130

New York City, 128, 139, 157

North Fork, Platte River, deep and rapid, 60; distance from South Fork, 50, 51, 114, ferry of, 64-65, 99, 114-1153 Fort Laramie 174 miles up, 114; junction of, with Laramie Fork, 61; left " for final," 65

Ouro River, 4

Ohio, State of, 19

Oregon-California Trail, crowded, 28, 60; emigrant in trouble on, 66, 115-116; good, up the Platte, 111; marks of travel of '49 on, 40

Overland stage, 128, 146, 151, 156

PaciFic OcEaANn, 69, 139, 142 Pacific Spring, 69, 99 Panama, city of, 139

Index

Panama, Isthmus of, 139, 157

Panama Railroad, 130, 139, 157

Pawnee Indians, description of, 34-36; enemies of the Potawatoml, 25

Pennsylvania, 3, 4, 9, 455 53, 54. 75 103, 151

Pittsburgh, 3, 7, 10

Placerville, see Hangtown

Platte, or Nebraska River, Company reaches, 38; habitat of the Pawnees, 25; islands of, 39, 45, 112; junction of North and South Forks of, 112-113; mountains at head of, 115; not much timber on, 11i, 112. See Laramie Fork, North Fork, South Fork

Plum Creek, 40

Potawatomi warriors, war dance of, 25

Prices: at Fort Kearney, 39, 112; barley, at Leek Springs, 96; beef in the diggings, 120; brandy at Ferry, North Platte, 115; ferry charge, North Platte, 65; flour in the diggings, 120, near Carson River, 90; mules, 10; wagon, rigged, 10; pony, 10

Proclamation of Freedom, vote on, in California, 148

Rart River, 76

Randolph County, Mo., 30

Read, George W.: advice to emigrants, 107, 122-123; captain and surgeon, Jefferson-California Company, xix, 12, 109; capture by Alabama, 131-137, 148; carves his name on Chimney Rock, 55; diary of, vii, xvii, 17, 21, 103, 115; dislikes dissension, 42-43, 46, 57; gold mine: 127, loss of, 144, 146; leaves Independence, 17; parents both Friends, mote 1§03 qualifications for leadership, xix-xx; ranch, "' Free Soil," 127, 143, 145, 146, 147, 149, 150, 152, 156, 157; reaches Hangtown [Placerville], 98; remarks on Great Desert Basin, 82; West: foresees great future of, 22; irrigation of, suggested, 111

Reese River, 156

Index

Richmond, Va., reported captured, 153

Riddle, Mr., mote 4

Riley, James, 54, 82; member Jefferson-California Company, 13

Rocky Mountains, 68-69, 99, 177

Roseberry, James, 83; member Jefferson-California Company, 13

Ross, John, 18; member Jefferson-California Company, 11, 13

Ross, Thomas, 29, 82; kicked by a mule, 27; member Jefferson- California Company, 13

Route of Jefferson-California Company, 99-100

Sacramento, 82, 99, 143, 148, 157

St. Joseph, 28

St. Joseph Road, 28, 29, 30, 32

St. Louis, 3, 10, 41

St. Nicholas Hotel, New York, 128

St. Nicholas Méle, Hayti, 135

Saleratus Lakes, 117

Salt Lake Road, 77, 99, 100

Scott's Bluffs, 58, 60

Seasickness, 131

Secessionists, 148, 153

Semmes, Raphael, Captain of the Alabama, 135

Sharpnack, George, 36, 54, 72, 82; member Jefferson-California Company, 12

Shatterly, Lewis, 42; attacked by mumps, 21; member Jefferson- California Company, 13

Shatterly, Mr., 45

Shatterly, William, 42; attacked by mumps, 21; member Jefferson-California Company, 13

Shepherd, Dr. William Henry, 147

Sierra Nevada, ascent of first range, 92, 93-94, second range, 95; canyon of, g1—g2; descent of first range, 94-95; large timber on, 89; road over, worst ever traveled, 91, 92, 93, 943 scenery in, 92; snow, rocks and all, 120; topography of,

96, 97 [ 183 ]

Index

Sioux Indians, encampment of, 51-52

Smith's Fork, Bear River, 72

Soda Springs, 73, 99

South Fork, Platte River, distance from North Fork, 50, 51, 114; ford of, 49-50, 113; no timber on south side of, 47

South Pass, 68, 99, 117

State House, Jefferson City, Mo., 52

Strawberry Run, 68

Strowman, Marcellus, 33, 36, 54, 62, 72, 83; member Jefferson- California Company, 12

Sublette's Cut Off, 69

Sweetwater River, desert around, 68; fine stream, 66—67; mountains and scenery of, 116; saleratus around, 1173; valley

of, 68

Taytor, PresipENT Zacuary, death of, 123

Tehuantepec, Gulf of, 142

Telegraph, The, 153

Thomas's Fork, Bear River, 72

Tobacco, desired by Pawnees, 35; use of, in the diggings, 109—

Trading points: Fort Kearney, 39; Fort Laramie, 61; near Carson River, 90, Leek Springs, 96, Scott's Bluffs, 60

290, The, see Alabama

Tyler, John, 124

Unitep SraTeEs, 6, 104, III, 123

VaLLEY OF Warm Sprincs, 78 Vanvorice, Mr., 45

Vermilion Creek, 26

Virginia, State of, 13

Warm Sprinos, Valley of, 78 Washington County, Pa., 45

a [ 184 ]

Index

Waukarusa Creek, 19-20

Wayne City, Mo., all told, three huts, 5; landing for Independence, 3

Waynesburg, Pa., 13

Weaver, Thomas, member Jefferson-California Company, 11, 12

Weaverville [Weberville], 90, 97

White, Isaac, member Jefferson-California Company, 11, 13

Wigwams, 51

Wise, George, father of S. U. Wise, 4

Wise, Morgan R., member Jefferson-California Company, 12

Wise, S. B., 58, 61; member Jefferson-California Company, 11, 12

Wise, S. U., 72, 82; letter from, 4, 9-13; member Jefferson- California Company, 13

Wise, Solomon, attacked by cramp colic, 41

YELLow FEVER, 137 Yolo, California, 127

ZeLiars, Morcan W., 54, 60, 82; member Jefferson-California Company, 12

Drawn by G. Schweizer

Copyright, 1927, by Georgia W Read

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